nerdtalker

What shop did you end up going to? I'm in San Jose as well and haven't decided what shop to go to for the driveline. My cardan shaft hasn't failed yet but I picked up an OEM driveshaft I was planning to DIY preventatively and haven't gotten around to. It looks a bit more involved than I wanted with dropping the exhaust hangers in a few spots. I was considering going to an offroad shop and asking them to make a beefier driveline so I don't have to worry about grenading the thing if I go off road more. Then I saw someone is making single-piece driveshafts: https://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/955AXLE.html

I'm not sure either, except that maybe because one bank was very different than the other it caused some issue? When bank 1 SAI pump was not working, after coming to a stop I'd see idle go up and down and had the sensation that the vehicle was going to stall. If I let it continue doing its dance, it'd stabilize after a moment and then illuminate CEL.

Well I fixed it. Turns out when the SAI Pump died it also blew the fuse. I thought I visually checked it but accidentally checked the wrong one. Replaced the fuse, and everything is great, no more CEL or issues.

Yeah I have no love for CARB and the combination of visual inspections and the gestapo feeling. Funnily enough if you have a Boxster or Cayman though I've found almost no mom and pop smog shop will actually bother visually checking the engine compartment since it's buried inside. They just wave their hands at it.

Yeah I'm less concerned with the first 5, I had to change ride height while working on the water pump to get comfortable so I had to turn the vehicle on. I just didn't bother clearing afterwards, but I did let the throttle re-adapt and heard the normal clicking sound associated with it feeling out the range of travel of the throttle plate. My passenger side SAI pump was seized and seemed to have truly just died, that's why I replaced it with a brand new one a week ago. Seeing both showing some error is pretty alarming. At startup everything seems fine, it's after I come to a stop after the freeway when SAI pumps kick in again for emissions that I get the CEL. It was pretty lumpy and clearly stuttered when the passenger side pump was dead, and returned to smooth after I replaced it. I have no idea why both showed up today as I felt and saw no change in revs. I found Loren's P0492 troubleshooting document in another thread and will work through that.

A week ago I had an issue with my secondary air injection system on bank 1, got P0491 and rough / weird idle after coming to a stop after freeway driving. I checked the secondary air pump and sure enough it didn't make any sounds or vibration on cold startup on the passenger side bank. I replaced that pump, then had an unrelated water pump maintenance event (smelled coolant, saw play in the pulley, and replaced the pump and pulley). I blew down the passenger side SAI hose and it was fairly difficult (I thought I'd give myself an aneurysm), and sucking didn't pass any air. I believe that's the correct operation. A day passed, and now after coming to a stop after freeway driving again I look down and see CEL illuminated, and after scan P0491 and P0492. It seems unlikely that both the new pump and the old pump are dead. I had a bunch of other codes from turning the car on to accessory status while the MAP and N75 solenoid and a few other things were unplugged while replacing the water pump. I'm hoping that the DME was just confused or something. Any ideas why suddenly both SAI pumps would show as failing?

I don't know when they activate, but I head a dead airbag computer in my 955 when I bought it (someone spilled a beverage). It's right under the cupholders in the center console. I think you could disconnect battery and unplug the connector from the airbag computer pretty easily. The box is super easy to get to, just just remove the screws holding the oddiments tray on, then the center console trim comes up, exposing the box.

I've got a weird issue with my 955TT. When I activate the windshield wipers, I used to get full spray onto the windshield. Recently however all I get is a very wimpy low pressure stream onto the bottom quarter or so. The headlight washers seem to still have full pressure and spray pretty well. I also don't get any spray on the rear window, although that's never worked while I've owned the truck. I don't seem to have any washer fluid reservoir leaks (from what I can tell), and the nozzles seem fine. It's almost like a hose is pinched somewhere, but I can't quite trace where it goes. I guess there are two separate pumps for the washer fluid, one for the headlights and another for the windows (20 and 21). Has anyone had just one die?

I'm not sure if it'll work, but you could raise it to the max setting and then disable auto regulation by holding the raise rocker switch in the raise position for 10 seconds. That'll pop up a regulation disabled message, but I'm not sure if it'll override the speed limit interlocks before lowering itself.

Thanks Loren, that puts my mind at ease. I'll make sure we give that a check.

I'm looking at a 2006 955TT with 99.6k miles for my friend (after riding in my 955TT he now wants one for himself) and did my usual thing, scanned with Durametric and checked over the vehicle. I noticed CEL was illuminated and saw P0456 Evap Emission System Leak Detected (very small leak) as the only code in the Engine ME section (the rest of the car's systems checked out). Any ideas what P0456 commonly is linked to? I'm thinking gas cap or fuel pump or something? It'd already not pass smog in CA so I'd have to fix or have seller fix before it can be registered.

80k miles, I felt some hesitation and pulled all 8 coils out of my 2004 CTT. All were cracked and split as shown here in the photo. Some were cracked on the other side and I couldn't get them to stay still for the photo. These were all -02 revision. New ones I put in were -21 but looked superficially the same. Unfortunately I could only change 7 of the 8 since one of the new coils I bought had been subjected to some trauma and had a crushed connector. I joked that it came pre-cracked from the factory. I have yet to install the last new coil. Changed all the plugs as well without any drama. Unfortunately one of the bolts holding the coil pack in stripped out when reinstalling, they look brass in appearance and a new bolt looks aluminum, now my next job is to repair that.

Thanks for your help. It's the internal blower failing intermittently. Specially when it's really hot outside. That's the same failure mode my Cayenne had as well, when the vehicle was hottest was when the regulator seemed to die or be most intermittent and lock out the highest fan settings. The system would then see inadequate cooling and request an even higher (broken) fan state from the regulator, until it reached maximum, all while barely blowing any air through. I think mine might have frozen a few times since it wouldn't blow at all. I replaced my fan regulator and now I have awesome cooling and all of the fan states all of the time. Troubleshooting this was strange since I could be in a parking garage and have all the fan states, but right when I needed the highest fan states (after being parked in direct sunlight) most they would be unavailable.

I used this thread as my guide for some new wheels and tires for my 2004 CTT. Previous owner had installed some 22" rims with low profile tires that were pretty rough around town and not quite my style. I went for some BFGoodrich TA KO2 tires, per this thread size 265/65-18, and bought some 18" rims from a newer Cayenne. The installer I brought it all to thought I was crazy and was sure they would rub, but a few hours later they called back completely surprised by the good news - no rubbing even with the factory wheel liners and mud/splash guards. I did later make it rub (only on the passenger side) at the lowest ride height setting with the wheel at full lock and suspension at extension turning around a ramp in a parking garage, but it's very minor and rarely am I in anything but normal ride height. I did some off-roading in the Hollister ORV park with the tires, everything worked out great through all the green trails and both obstacle courses. Lots of curious glances and comments there and since then. There's nowhere near as much road noise or groove following with these KO2s as I've experienced with my old truck and similar aggressively cut off-road tires. I definitely recommend the change if you're interested in taking the Cayenne off road or are going for a completely different look that fills out the wheel wells more.

Just to update, I fixed it and figured everything out. Throttle body needed to be re-calibrated which I performed with durametric. For some reason the 60 seconds in on position and 10 seconds of off didn't do it. No matter, it only took a few seconds to run the adaptation over the computer, then the idle came back down. Brake booster was equally simple. I forgot to plug the vacuum pump back in. Plugged it in, reset codes, brakes are back and the Cayenne runs great now.

Long time lurker (these boards are so helpful) but I've finally run into something worth posting about. Last week my coolant Ts at the back of my 04 Cayenne Turbo started leaking. I've already got the metal pipes between the thermostat and bracket, but the Ts weren't changed to metal and cracked (car has about 80k miles on it now). Lots of steam and a visible spray from the fitting where the smaller turbo T connects to the larger T. For a second I thought the car was definitely on fire. Ordered new Ts with metal pipes, took the intake and manifold off no sweat, and got the metal Ts with new tubes installed after weekend's worth of effort. While I had the throttle body off I gave it a cleaning since it was covered in some oil, and I replaced the intake plenum Y in front of it since I suspected a crack was forming at the seam in the front. I also installed new manifold gaskets and throttle body gaskets. I thought for sure I would break the plastic vacuum T everyone talks about at the back against the firewall, but that was fine, and none of the PCV hoses running over the V were cracked or overly brittle. I also replaced the PCV check valve since I've been meaning to do it and had that part handy (I wanted to do AOS too but that cap is really glued on there). However next time I started the car up to fill and bleed the coolant system I got a weird high idle (1.1k RPM) that fluctuates, and a bunch of codes about the throttle position calibration not finishing. After a test drive I immediately noticed braking performance was reduced too, followed by the brake booster failure message. Obviously at this point I suspect a vacuum leak somewhere in one of the dozen hoses, but I'm not sure what to start. I'm suspecting the brake booster vacuum pump and hose bracket might have a leak that I exacerbated while taking the torque arm out, and really hoping that the lines at the back of the intake manifold aren't leaking now. I thought the brake booster vacuum was controlled via the pump on the passenger side. I saw the following codes: P1535 Throttle adjust unit (test aborted due to violated ambient condition) P0507 Idle air control system RPM – upper limit value exceeded P2220 Throttle actuator control system – sudden airflow detected P1455 Brake booster system implausible signal