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Everything posted by jchapura

  1. Excessive crankcase vacuum is definitely a symptom of the AOS having failed. A couple of years ago, I made a homebrew manometer and captured the "inches of water" value. After the AOS failed, but I hadn't yet fully confirmed it was the AOS, I hooked up the manometer, and lickety-split, every inch of that water got sucked into the crankcase. I should have guessed that would happen but I stood there dumbfounded for a second then shut 'er down. Drained the oil. Replaced the AOS. Warmed up the car. Drained the oil again. A $120 for the extra oil change. Ugh.
  2. I'm not sure this will help... When I had the original side markers, I never had an issue with sporadic "check" messages. For a couple years I've had LED replacements and about once a quarter I get a check message (on the right side) after hitting a rough patch of road. It has always resolved itself (I never had to fiddle with the fixture).
  3. I'm surprised that the failed AOS caused the low pressure warning. I hadn't read that low oil pressure was a consequence and I've had a failure while driving and I had normal oil pressure for the balance of the short journey home.
  4. I think the oil "spread" is too wide for the photos to help us. I think you need to clean off the area (even with a degreaser like brake cleaner aerosol) and then begin your vigil to watch for the first signs of the smallest amounts of dripping or seepage, etc.
  5. They are not electrically controlled shocks. No wire. With the Ohlins, one can buy a black box that simulates the PASM part of the shock rather than having it coded out. It's just to fake-out the computer.
  6. Howdy Koenbro, I have a 2005 C2S. I noticed some drive-ability problems when there was ponding on the road (and maybe some dry weather "bouncy-ness"). I took it to a well known independent and he put it up in the air. Tire wear wasn't bad because I took most of the camber out about a year earlier but he said it probably had excessive toe-in and that should be eliminated and the camber put back. (You'll never get the same wear life out of the rears compared to the fronts). But...the most important thing was the rear shocks - he said he could lift the wheel assembly a few inches and if the setup was new/not worn, he should not be able to (by hand). I swear I had tried the four corner "bounce" test and the body settled in what I thought was a normal amount of rebounds. I guess the hand bounce test just doesn't cut it. So, I thought about Bilsteins to retain the PASM. I'm going with Ohlins R&Ts (Mostly because there was an availability problem with almost all Bilsteins for my car). I'll "code out" the PASM. I'm in the middle of the retrofit. Shocks do wear out. Some say they're either good or bad. And they are only bad when they are leaking. Good or bad (binary) - has just not been my experience with any car I've owned (and my C2S's were not leaking). Even Ohlins recommends a rebuild after 20-30k miles on the top notch shocks. These things wear out. Especially things sliding past one another. Some say 50k miles is at the upper end of the useful life for a shock. I think you could probably adjust/stiffen your existing PASM shocks with the DSC Sport Controller module. That's another option to consider. John
  7. Do what JFP says and... I think that if the oil pressure gauge is showing any non-zero value when the engine is not spinning and electrical system energized, it makes the oil pressure sender suspect. It should read zero. The sender is easy to change and not too expensive; it's on the passenger side of the engine, on the top side above the head, and about half way back; it looks like a typical oil pressure sender. Pretty sure you'll want to do it when the engine is cold.
  8. If you are referring to the black area near/below the shoulder - it is a marking from during my disassembly process.
  9. I don't think there should be bolts in there. I happen to still have mine open for putting in coilovers. The aluminum plate is what the Bose subwoofer shelf sits on and there doesn't seem to be any bolts/studs coming from it (that would mate with the holes). As for the broken clip - I don't have that on my 2005 C2S as can be seen in my pic. It's been a few months since I took mine apart so I may need some help from you when I put it back together. ?
  10. Very weird. Never heard a story like this. What changed since it was last driven; what allowed them to not break the last time it was driven? Some sort of accelerated fatigue...
  11. Do these seem like reasonable steps to change-out the tensioners? All comments welcome. Tools: -Tensioner torque 59 ft-lb -32 mm socket -fairly large 6 mm(?) hex key (for bank 2) Reference info: -while facing the rear of the car; looking towards the front -cylinders 1,2,3 - drivers side, left side; this is bank 1 -cylinders 4,5,6 - passengers side, right side; this is bank 2 Parts: -primary/ims chain tensioner - one ring marking; 996-105-180-58-M100; installs on crankcase near oil filter area; rear of engine -cylinder bank 1-3 - two rings marking; 996-105-186-02-M100; left lower area on cylinder head; points straight down -cylinder bank 4-6 - no marking; 996-105-188-02-M100; right upper area on cylinder head -crush washers usually come with the tensioners -camshaft plugs - 4x - 996-104-215-54 Steps: -index the engine to TDC -remove the bank 1 camshaft plugs (looking into engine bay; to the left and look down) -inspect the camshaft slots to ensure they are straight up and down, if not rotate the engine 360 deg; inspect the camshaft slots to ensure they are straight up and down -lock the crank/pulley with a 5/16 inch or 8 mm pin -lock the camshaft for bank 1, rear of engine, left side -pump up the primary/ims and bank 1 tensioners in oil prior to insertion -replace the IMS tensioner (has one ring) (flywheel end of engine; right side of engine; a few inches up from bottom of engine) -replace the bank 1 tensioner (two marking rings) (left side/bottom of engine) -remove the camshaft lock -install the new camshaft plugs -remove the TDC pin -rotate the engine 360 deg -lock it with a 5/16 inch or 8 mm pin -lock the camshaft for bank 2, front of engine, right side -move the AC compressor out of the way -pump up the bank 2 tensioner in oil prior to insertion -replace the bank 2 tensioner -install the AC compressor -remove the camshaft lock -install the new camshaft plugs -remove the TDC pin
  12. With regard to my 2005 C2S (three chain, right?), can I lock the pulley at TDC, and then use a single 9686 tool to lock the camshafts on one side but swap-out all three tensioners, one-by-one (without moving the 9686 tool)? If a single 9686 tool position can work for all three tensioners, which side should it be placed on - drivers or passengers?
  13. So, I got up under car to start taking measurements for the camshaft lock (similar to 9686) and noticed how little room there was at the front and rear of the engine to place the tool. In the rear (drivers side), the underside of the engine mount area seems to be in conflict. In the front of the engine, part of the frame crosses through the work area. Can the standard lock tool be put into place (front and rear) while the engine is in the car?
  14. I too haven't read that there's specific mileage threshold (although I've read that they do "age" - read - leak down and/or lose tension). I did read from Raby that there should be no noise from the chains, for example, upon cold start (even transient). I'm hearing a 1-2 second period of chain rattle at cold start so I'm going to preemptively change the two easy ones first and see what rattling is left over. I've read it's usually the IMS chain tensioner which is one of the easy ones. I'll do it at my next oil change even though not a lot of oil leaves the case. You do have to have one special tool (actually two of the same) - to lock the camshafts in position when you're locked at TDC with a 5/16 inch drill bit. I plan on making (the lock tool is rather simple) them from some aluminum flat bar since the cheapest I could find for one (as part of a kit) was $60.
  15. I've got the three chain tensioners sitting on the shelf waiting to change with the oil in few weeks. From the bottom, the IMS (I think) tensioner is the easiest one - totally exposed for a socket. The other one accessible from the bottom is "fenced" by a couple of metal coolant tubes. Can the coolant tubes be temporarily moved out of the way by undoing their straps to gain sufficient access to the tensioner? Or, do the tubes have to come out by decoupling them from their in and out rubber hoses? (I'm trying to avoid cracking open the coolant system...) Does the cam have to be locked in TDC with a pin through the pulley hole? Is there still a chance that any of the three chains could jump a tooth while removing the existing tensioner or putting in the new one? I plan to complete each tensioner completely before moving to the next one (two tensioners will never be out at the same time). Any other tips or tricks? Thanks for any advice.
  16. About 14000 miles ago (~17 months) I replaced the seemingly original water pump with a Pierburg (remember to replace the 7 mounting bolts). I did change to a low temperature thermostat at the same time. (I bench tested the temperature-at-open values and temperature-at-full-open values because I found two seemingly defective ones.) After it was all buttoned-up, in hot weather, the incidents of oil temperature spiking increased. (Normal cruising 100F ambient, yielded 200F oil temp; spiking meant to me elevated RPMs 4k+ for just a dozen seconds or so, took me to 220F oil temp; and I would say the oil temp did not recover quickly or at all some times.) Since I was pretty sure I had a good thermostat, the only other thing I think it could be is coolant flow (meaning it was the same potentially dirty radiators before and after, for these observations). The Pierburg just didn't seem to flow the needed amount of water when the system needed it the most. [Later that summer, I did take off the front bumper cover to clean the condenser and radiators - no change in "spiking" incidences.] So, when I change it again (~40000 miles), I will probably be going with the genuine Porsche pump.
  17. Your 3.9 indicates a rebuild/upgrade perhaps and you may want to ask the builder. Viscosity is just one part of the oil equation. The additive package is very important. I use JGR DT40 in hot/moderate Texas, USA. It's recommended by one well known engine builder.
  18. I installed some Gundo hacked mufflers and love them. Looking back I should have just modified my stock mufflers.
  19. I too have a less-than-smooth 1-2 shift. Not very bad but noticeable compared to the other transitions. I have changed the oil and used PTX. I have Function First inserts for the tranny and semi-solid motor mounts. All the changes were done separately; none of them really benefited the 1-2 transition. What was the part number of the tool you ordered? Have you found a source for the adjustment procedure? Thank you for reporting back your results. I will too if I do the adjustment. Update: I found the part number [shift adjustment tool #SKU9X7 Suncoast] and I just saw a post on the replacement procedure and it looks like the adjustment threads are in the center console rather than the transmission end so I probably won't be taking all that apart for a relatively trivial issue (or unless your results are really fantastic).
  20. Could be. Could also be a pulley. Safely use a mechanic's stethoscope to try to narrow down where the squeak is coming from. If you don't have a stethoscope, I've used a long small diameter metal rod... Just be careful when the engine is running.
  21. I ordered an assembled 60 inch remote bleeder from Eric at BAT in Florida for about $50. I hope the M10 terminating fitting, that replaces the bleeder, fits.
  22. I found in post (http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cup-cars/771311-clutch-bleed-extension.html) that the 997 and 996 are different, 10mm and 6mm, respectively. I've written to BAT to see if they can put one together for me.
  23. Thanks Loren - I'm definitely going to follow that procedure. But instead of laying on my back to open and close the bleeder, I will open and close a bleeder, from my feet, with the new remote bleeder in the engine compartment. But what I want to do is to remove the stock bleeder on the clutch slave cylinder and replace it with an extension line to become a "remote bleeder". There don't seem to be any "on the shelf" for purchase so I'll spec one out and have it built. But I need the specs for the stock bleeder valve so I can tell the fabricator what part to start this extension line with. Basically, the extension line will be a male part that screws into the cylinder. That male part will be crimped to about 5 feet of stainless braided brake line and then crimp-terminate to bleeder valve. So, for that first male part, I need to know the "size" of the bleeder in the clutch slave for a 997.1. Thread pitch, tip configuration (to mate with slave seat configuration), diameter, length, etc.
  24. I'm interested in buying or having built a remote bleeder for the clutch slave cylinder on my 997.1 Does anyone happen to know the "size" of the bleeder in the clutch slave for a 997.1? Thread pitch, tip configuration (to mate with slave seat configuration), diameter, length, etc. It seems that that's the only Porsche specific part I'd need to know about (to be able to build-out the rest).
  25. My water pump went this past spring. Started out just as drips. Then over two weeks progressed to a puddle one Saturday morning. I think there's a consensus that they only last about 40k to 50k miles - some folks even changing them out preemptively. If it is coolant, don't leave drips/puddles out - it will kill or blind most animals and insects.
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