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Everything posted by jchapura

  1. I don't have any specific experience resurrecting a car in this condition but I can offer general pointers. Did you smell plastic burning or melting when the over-voltage occurred? That would be a bad sign and wiring damage is likely. The resurrection becomes a lot harder if cables/bundles have to be assessed and replaced. It is possible the over-voltage caused fuses and relays to be damaged. I would hand check every fuse with a DMM/continuity test. I would bench test every relay. Or just replace each and every one. Check or replace - just depends on if you have more money or more time. After you've established that electricity can flow to downstream components, the next likely damaged component is/are the computers. I'm not sure if there's a business that can bench test them out of the car - if you find one - you may want to send them each module. When you find one dead - you'll have to replace it and then move on to the next module. An interim goal might be to get the module that directly connects/sends info to the OBDII connector (do they have that in the UK?). Then once that's working you can use other diagnostic tools (OBDII reader, Durametric) to get other modules assessed.
  2. For phone calls and listening to Amazon Music on my Android in my 2005 C2S, I use the iSimple Tranzit BLU FM Transmitter and Bluetooth Adapter. One has to tie it into power and the antenna but that wasn't too hard of a job, just tedious. I'm not sure it's still available but there are even more options available today (for "wireless" FM transmitters/Bluetooth connectivity).
  3. It is normal to see rubber bushings deteriorate with time and usage. The deterioration accelerates in high stress areas. Normally, bushing "separation" would lead to "clunking" sounds but even if those are absent, if it were me, I'd plan to replace the parts "next time I was in there" (perhaps when doing other maintenance items). I replaced a lot of the "harder to get to" parts even though they showed minimal issues, when I switched to Ohlins coilovers. Rubber/stressed things just don't last forever.
  4. Can the Porsche (PASM) shocks be rebuilt by Bilstein or others? Is there a reference to how that rebuild process gets initiated?
  5. As far as I know, the Primary AOS on the 997.1 3.8 is not serviceable by draining. Have you checked your crankcase vacuum? Either with a manometer or the oil filler cap removal resistance method? How old is the AOS? If not original, is it genuine Porsche? Any squealing, screeching noises? Do you park on an incline? Is the smoke persistent or only at start up?
  6. Well, at least not charging "flat rate" or "book rate". 😉
  7. I'm not sure. I've heard it's best to stick with a Porsche branded pump (rather than even the OEM Pierburg).
  8. Thanks for sharing. That's quite a failure mode. Never heard of the prop shaft just snapping like that "out of the blue". You lucked out that the impeller didn't wobble into the block (and shed plastic) while it slowed down. I replaced mine about 4 years ago. The replacement period consensus I gathered was to replace at about 40000 miles. Definitely replace the thermostat at the same time. And other things, as you mention. Happy motoring.
  9. When you say "swapped" coil/plug - do you mean for another position? If so, it will be interesting to see if the code follows it. Then you'll know. How old is the gasoline in it? Even couple-month-old gas can be "flat". And cause misfires. Generally though, not at a single position (unless of course it was on the "edge"). I think there's consensus to change the plugs around 40k miles or 4 years, whichever comes first. It's my understanding the 4 years is motivated by trying to avoid damage to the aluminum head because the plug threads adhere themselves to the head threads. If you're a DIY-er, changing the plugs is probably about a 6 of 10 difficulty. Don't need a lot of fancy tools. I've done mine. Your hands will be sore the next day. Two or three of the positions are especially onerous. Maybe a 2-4 hour job. I didn't even remove the mufflers. My car was up on QuickJacks. You'll save a bunch of that $1400. Especially if you already have the new style coils.
  10. Do you think a lab could distinguish between the chain guide ramp material and Techroned-off "carbon deposit" material? If it were Techroned-off carbon deposits, would you be more concerned with allowing the carbon to build by not Techron-ing versus getting the slug of carbon every oil change? FWIW, I use a Top Tier gasoline at least 80% of the time...
  11. I had my oil tested and nothing remarkable seen there. Coincidentally, a fellow Rennlister had an issue similar to mine but on a BMW. The current working theory is that it was carbon that had been broken loose because of the fuel system cleaners we'd both used prior to the oil change. Found fine black powder in oil filter medium - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 997 Forum - Found fine black powder in oil filter medium - Changed my oil today. 2005 C2S with about 80000 miles. Been using DT40 for a few years. About 3300 miles (1.5 years; car was laid up about a year) on this oil change. Opened the oil filter case to inspect the oil filter medium. Saw a lot of fine...
  12. Thanks Loren. The grommet is holding the sensor ok in its natural position. I check it quite often since my fan being on really gets my attention. I was thinking of 1) reversing the sensor position or 2) insulating the sensor tip. All in the hope of delaying the fan start to its design value. Is it possible another temp sender (oil, coolant?) is broken that is part of the purge fan control logic?
  13. 2005 C2S about 80000 miles What are the possible causes for the engine compartment purge fan to come on early? The old sensor exhibited the same thing. The new sensor is about a month old. I was checking the cam deviations with my Durametric and I noticed the fan come on only after about 5-10 minutes after the engine had started up (from a true cold start). The ambient temperature was about 55 degF. The Durametric showed the engine compartment temperature about 41-44 degC (much cooler than I thought was supposed to kick on the fan).
  14. Thanks John. After warm-up: Camshaft deviation, bank 1 -0.9844 Camshaft deviation, bank 2 -0.4219 Rock steady, no jumping around at idle nor 2700 RPM. What do you think?
  15. If it is, is it more troubling if it seemingly cropped up over the span of a single oil change interval? Am I on a "deadline" now? Are the chain ramp replacements considered a DIY job without removing the engine? Special tools needed? Other considerations?
  16. I used a wash bottle with lacquer thinner and washed about 1/2 the medium's debris into a clean glass container. Decanted it once. Washed it again. Decanted it. Let the solvent evaporate a little bit and scooped a couple of screwdriver tip's worth onto a clean paper towel. It was still a little wet as you can see by the staining on the paper towel. Picture is attached. The clumps are easily pulverized. The color is brown-reddish-brown. PS: I think I'll get the Durametric out and measure the cam (angle) deviations...
  17. Changed my oil today. 2005 C2S with about 80000 miles. Been using DT40 for a few years. About 3300 miles (1.5 years; car was laid up about a year) on this oil change. Opened the oil filter case to inspect the oil filter medium. Saw a lot of fine black (oil soaked, of course) powder in the creases of the filter medium. Non-ferrous (wouldn't stick to magnet, other than due to oil acting as "adhesive"). More than I've seen in the past. I've attached two pics here. What do you think? Source? Cause for alarm? Needs immediate diagnosis/correction?
  18. Yes. I've replaced mine twice in the four years I've owned mine. Same symptoms as you. Easy R&R.
  19. Excessive crankcase vacuum is definitely a symptom of the AOS having failed. A couple of years ago, I made a homebrew manometer and captured the "inches of water" value. After the AOS failed, but I hadn't yet fully confirmed it was the AOS, I hooked up the manometer, and lickety-split, every inch of that water got sucked into the crankcase. I should have guessed that would happen but I stood there dumbfounded for a second then shut 'er down. Drained the oil. Replaced the AOS. Warmed up the car. Drained the oil again. A $120 for the extra oil change. Ugh.
  20. I'm not sure this will help... When I had the original side markers, I never had an issue with sporadic "check" messages. For a couple years I've had LED replacements and about once a quarter I get a check message (on the right side) after hitting a rough patch of road. It has always resolved itself (I never had to fiddle with the fixture).
  21. I'm surprised that the failed AOS caused the low pressure warning. I hadn't read that low oil pressure was a consequence and I've had a failure while driving and I had normal oil pressure for the balance of the short journey home.
  22. I think the oil "spread" is too wide for the photos to help us. I think you need to clean off the area (even with a degreaser like brake cleaner aerosol) and then begin your vigil to watch for the first signs of the smallest amounts of dripping or seepage, etc.
  23. They are not electrically controlled shocks. No wire. With the Ohlins, one can buy a black box that simulates the PASM part of the shock rather than having it coded out. It's just to fake-out the computer.
  24. Howdy Koenbro, I have a 2005 C2S. I noticed some drive-ability problems when there was ponding on the road (and maybe some dry weather "bouncy-ness"). I took it to a well known independent and he put it up in the air. Tire wear wasn't bad because I took most of the camber out about a year earlier but he said it probably had excessive toe-in and that should be eliminated and the camber put back. (You'll never get the same wear life out of the rears compared to the fronts). But...the most important thing was the rear shocks - he said he could lift the wheel assembly a few inches and if the setup was new/not worn, he should not be able to (by hand). I swear I had tried the four corner "bounce" test and the body settled in what I thought was a normal amount of rebounds. I guess the hand bounce test just doesn't cut it. So, I thought about Bilsteins to retain the PASM. I'm going with Ohlins R&Ts (Mostly because there was an availability problem with almost all Bilsteins for my car). I'll "code out" the PASM. I'm in the middle of the retrofit. Shocks do wear out. Some say they're either good or bad. And they are only bad when they are leaking. Good or bad (binary) - has just not been my experience with any car I've owned (and my C2S's were not leaking). Even Ohlins recommends a rebuild after 20-30k miles on the top notch shocks. These things wear out. Especially things sliding past one another. Some say 50k miles is at the upper end of the useful life for a shock. I think you could probably adjust/stiffen your existing PASM shocks with the DSC Sport Controller module. That's another option to consider. John
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