lewisweller

have you tried removing those flexible hoses connecting from bank 1 and 2, and the pipe 5 I had split also I assume the small check valves you check when replacing the silicon hoses the other day? Lastly as we was emailing earlier you said the whistle noise started after replacing the driver side DV, time to jump back in there and recheck everything again top to bottom. Whistle noise is almost always a boost leak, when boost is leaking out the dme holds the wastegate shut longer to build up the boost it wants to see in the manifold, when you shut the throttle it will spike up and over boost code will pop up, then performance is reduce until you switch ignition off or reset the dtc. When you have the turbo inlet pipe off, feel the turbo impellor wheel for play, there should be no movement side to side up and down. A small amount of movement in and out is acceptable. Also spin the impellor and check it's not rubbing and also spins freely. A faulty worn turbo can cause overboost as well.

Thanks Mark, I've actually ordered two. So whats your advice to do the drivers side pls?

Pretty easily, when you lift off the valve cover the back edge catches on the metal tab of the camshaft pick up and it's then bent. Luckily before I removed my bank 1 valve cover I read the Pelican diy guide and made sure I didn't catch mine when lifting it off and back on. And who said the internet is full of bad info? Lol

Thomas definitely worth a check to see if related to your issues. Cobra23 glad you found and fixed it, bet that feels good!

How fortuitous, I been having the beep beep every so often and do the triple pull and lift the pedal up sometimes to lol, so I just added this to the lambda sensors I ordered from eBay to come over in one package from the UK. £16.95 and free p+p to reach mothers house. Bargain to stop that annoying beeping. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/FEBI-37820-Gas-Spring-foot-operated-parking-brake-/401170530356?nav=SEARCH My old receipts show it was changed before in 2010, rolls eyes..........

The injector orings are cheap, my advice would be to remove the intake manifold this gives you the opportunity to do the following: Change all injector orings Replace intake manifold rubber gaskets Replace throttle body gasket and clean Check all the pipes at the back and check valves and change over valve piping (this controls the divertor valve opening and closing. Also a great time to check all the cooling pipes and wires to start motor are all good clean tight not leaking etc. Even take out the starter disassemble and clean up all insides and connectors if you got a spare hour. Manifold only takes 45 mins to remove and 30 mins to reinstall. Disconnect battery of course. Before you disconnect the fuel line either leave over night to make sure it Depressurised mostly or pull the fuel pump fuses whilst running and let the engine die relieving all the pressure. Lots of pictures in my earlier post here

Nice job well done.

Interesting, that means as long as the used module is the same model and spec options wise it's plug and play, great. Also mean the coding for keys is not required then or you wouldn't be up and runny at all. You have keyless entry correct? (kessy) Sorted thanks for the info. I'm going to find a used module and swap out mine hopefully fix this check tail light bug.

P0016 is bank 1 camshaft sensor reading is different to the crankshaft sensor. You need to check the camshaft sensor pickup tabs are not bent! They can be bent when you lift off the bank 1 valve cover. Just a small movement will weaken the inductive pickup signal and lower rpm the sensor voltage is not good. Aside from this all obvious things like the gaskets not seated properly, pcv pipes leaking and coils seated on plugs tightly and plugs gaps correct and torqued down correctly?

Where did you get the replacement module from and what software did you use to program it? What about programming the keys? My check tail light warning is starting to get tiring now, luckily I don't drive much at night. It's time I think to spend some more cash and fix this one.

Hi Mark, I'm going to change my precat sensor on the passenger side (left hand drive), can you share what tools you used pls and any more detail how you got the tool in from where? Do you happen to have the Bosch o2 sensor part number as I intend to go to Bosch direct and get one, if price is good I will get two and just do both side bank1+2 for my piece of mind and future reliability, he'll I've changed almost everything else now lol. Many thanks

Did you check the black colour check valves,? First picture. They have an arrow which shows the open direction, blow and suck hard to confirm they work. Also check the 3 way check valve 2nd picture below. Blow into pipe where arrowed number 13 is pointing, the air will go through to either other port as normal operation, you need to cover one port to get the other to open as your breath isn't enough to open both simultaneously against the diaphragms. Then blow back though the other two port and you should not be able to blow any air at all through either. There are some more check valves white and black/ grey at the back of the manifold which also can be checked for functions and the vac pipes too. I've learnt with a vacuum leak at the manifold intake side the idle can mantain with the throttle body whining away trying to compensate for the extra air, when accelerating the throttle response is rubbish and hesitant, boost takes longer to build as the air escapes. If you have a divertor valve problem ie split diaphragm or vac pipe running to it is split/leaking the car is very jerky and will under boost as well +-0.5 bar only, lift off surging of boost which is not released from the turbo is felt as the jerkyness. Leak around the injector would would my first thing to fix, leaking fuel or leaking air in either way can't be healthy. Pictures pls......

Your too kind.

No problem at all happy to help. Some pictures of your repair would be fantastic pls.

Ran diagnostic last night looking at the pre and post cat o2 sensors. The postcat sensor reading is in volts and the pre cat "wideband" air/fuel lambda sensor reads in milli amps (current). What I found is the bank 1 sensor 1 lambda sensor is not producing enough current milli amps, take a look at the first picture of 4 times I repeated snap throttle opening and the bank 2 sensor 1 yellow line hit max milli-amps where as the blue line bank 1 sensor 1 doesn't get half way to rich milli-amps. So this could be the issue with the stutter hesitation lazy wide band sensor! As my fuel trims are good and the idle is steady and lambda 1 ie 14.7:1 I dont think it's any other possibility like maf (new) ignition (all new) or fuel (new filter and regulator). No exhaust leaks. During cold start and warm up the engine drives very well, once warm it stutters all the time. Anyone disagree or have more experience on this?? Second picture is the bank 1+2 sensor 2 post cat 02 sensors in volts. You can see the red line which is bank 2 sensor 2 is normal stable line as the cat does its job whereas bank 1 sensor 2 green line is fluctuating either as a direct result of the wide band sensor 1 lambda fault and/or the cat efficiency is poor. As the post cat 02 sensors have no effect on air/fuel mixture I don't intend to address this yet. I am ruling out also a clogged cat because that would highlight performance at higher rpm, the engine would feel suffocated whereas at high rpm the engine runs very well. Mark Mbagge you changed the bank 1+2 sensor 1 what tools did you use and any advice which way to get in there pls? How did you diagnose the o2 sensor fault and what symptoms was you experiencing.

Interesting, well thanks for updating the forum on that find. Happy motoring

What was your mileage and was you oil change interval long or was you doing short trips? Previous owners misuse? What oil grade was being used? Who advocates engine flushing?

Check the rear comfort control module for water damage or unrelated issue which is not water damage but module or wire harness failure to the module. It located behind the CD autochanger. Right side of the boot as you enter the boot hatch behind side trim panels. This module controls all the items you mentioned are having faults. Replacement of module involves recoding which isn't difficult with vcds or durametric but coding the existing keys to the new/replacement module is a Porsche piwis job apparently, if I could work out how to do key coding with my vcds I would have replaced mine to fix check tail light issue when pressing brake.

I bet that leaks! Buy 15 and 14 fit new and forget that as a possible problem so you can move on.

Update..........after new filter and regulator. (don't think it was the smoking gun here but as a service item it could only do harm to my wallet!) it does feel better and cleaner at higher rpm now which could have been fuel related I can't really say definitely. It's holding a higher rpm shift too which is puzzling. ? Fixed pipe 5 leak (diy job, hydraulic hose and two jubilee clips) and had some time to clear codes and put on a few hundred km's. Massive difference now, throttle response is great, low end grunt when changing Lanes and needing a bit extra quick speed very good now, won't downshift all the time looking for power it just goes and pulls like a train. Full Throttle higher rpm is amazing this engine sings to 7,000rpm. Reaches speeds to lose my licence in a flash. Last night I work on a site the whole night and the car pretty much was running and idling between shifting locations short runs doing checking with my team of irrigation guys. Ran great idle is perfect, cooling system good even with AC off the temp held well creeping just above 80oC until fan kicks in and thermostat fully opens at 87oC I believe. The drive home at 5am was a blast open roads and no cars had the thing going like a stabbed rat. So what's left.........the "stutter" even though less pronounce than ever before it is still there. I just went to a meeting earlier and had a complete cold start, there is no stutter whilst it's on warm up, as soon as the temp gets near 80oC the stutter appeared. This is lean misfire under load for sure. But what exactly is making it lean I don't know. If you drive low acceleration, cruise or go down hill obviously load is less and the stutter is pretty much none existent. Uphill or asking for heavy acceleration from lower rpm the stutter is repeatable every time once warm. As the boost comes in and the rpm's start to build with a high load demand it stutters until the engine catches up with the load demand then it flies without stuttering. Don't get me wrong the car is soooooo much better to drive now. I'm so close to making it perfect and as an Engineer and Virgo perfectionist I need it to be perfect.

It's pipe 15 thomas. To get access you will need to remove airbox cover and the turbo intake pipe/MAF sensor then you can just about reach inside to get your fingers on the pipe 15 clamp to squeeze the tabs and release the pipe off. Then separate from pipe 14 and wiggle out from between the Serpentine belt. If you are going to replaced 15 I would also replace 14 as well it only makes sense. You will need to remove the Y pipe to access the small pipe and non return valve underneath the Y pipe. I tested mine when I stripped it out the other day to change the orings. My pipe 14 and 15 was new when head gasket work was done.

Normal yes pipe is straight through. No check valve or anything so you can hear the air travelling into the turbo and back around up to th airbox.

Hi Thomas, one night of working on a site and I missed so many posts! Lol Ok this pipe is the boost reference from the passenger side turbo. The n75 valve uses this boost pressure to control the wastegates opening. If this pipe leaks usual you get Overboost code. I changed this pipe the other day and posted the pictures. As below pics it the lower pipe with the securing clip attached to the alternator. You have to take the turbo pipes off to access this pipe and replace.

You can also remove the air filter box and get behind the light from there. Not difficult to remove and makes a lot of space.

Some more pictures for you. The bottom picture is the pipe fully inserted into the spigot and no leaks.