lewisweller

This is revision 08, latest revision which I have fitted is 21. Says a lot about Beru quality........... Your lean codes might be as a result of driving with cracked coil and the dme tried to adapt to that, now the misfire is gone with replacement coils it is now lean. Reset the fault codes (fuel trims will also be reset) and drive a bit more then check again. Also do the Throttle adaption by switching ignition on without starting engine and without touching pedals. Leave for 60 seconds and then switch off ignition. Switch back on and start the car. This has effectively adapted the Throttle. Can also be done in basic settings channel 60 on vagcom.

How old are they and what revision number is the part? Maybe the over heating is increasing due to this misfire or maybe the overheating lead to the Coils cracking? Or maybe two separate issues to give you a double headache and a wallet bashing all the same. At least this is a simple fix if not a cheap ones. FYI I found some interesting things today which I think explain all my running issues !!!! Hint leaking check valve 13 and leaking check valve on pipe 25!!!. Ordered both already........

Thomas this is the camshaft actuator solenoid. And both of mine are leaking oil as well! Although nowhere near as much as yours, it's more a weep than a run of oil. I wouldn't say your current running problems on the way to france are because of this but you never know. I'm going to try and change the oil Seals without removing the valve covers. If it work it will save me at least 5 hours or work to remove the valve covers and put it all back together. When I did the right bank valve cover gaskets it was a real pain in the *** to get at all the bolts near the rear against the bulkhead. If I can do it I will get some extra oil Seals and send you a couple in the post.

You will be taking off a load of items to get at these parts. Ie the manifold itself I'm pretty sure. I would change the temp sensor, thermostat and two associated gaskets, small Coolant tube pipes under manifold, Coolant Turbo 'T' and anything else looking rather tired vac pipes etc. Not sure if the 08 had a revised coolant expansion tank? Mine was replaced some years ago I see in my receipts of previous owner. If your really ocd and have money to burn under there is bank 1 and bank 2 knock sensors and cam positions sensor for each bank under there. I think given that list and assuming you have the metal aluminium Coolant pipes already being MY 08 you should be good to go. Oh except the starter motor hehe. Seriously When I did the head gaskets on my ctt 06 it was pretty bad, about $2500 for parts I bought. If the engine comes out you really don't want to do it again so I made sure I covered everything in one hit that was sensible, obviously your not taking your engine out.

Sadly the 1/4 tank theory was a fluke, I ran it down today from 1/2 tank down to nearly empty and no dice. Same bull**** running jerky stutter. Tomorrow I'm going back to looking for vac leaks as I don't have the kit to test the fuel pressure yet. What a chore.........

Did you check the other DV just for kicks? Now you have a "working spare" lol. It really easy to do the passenger side DV. Just have to remove a few torx screws from the front of the wheel arch cover and pull it open a bit to access the dv. Also the pcv check valve you found to be perished inside did you replace that? For sure your excess oil is coming via that?

Anybody got any info on which relay is the AC pretty pls? Weird today late afternoon I pressure washed the car and gave the intercoolers and radiators a good blast. The AC was much colder for 1 hour journey and waiting outside the shops for the wife. We'll see tomorrow in the midday heat if the AC just needed a clean out of the rads or just the evaporative cooling effect I provided with the pressure washer somewhat briefly!

Push the brass disk inside opening the DB then hold your finger tight over the vac pipe nipple. The valve should hold open until you release your finger off the vac nipple. Also when valve is shut as it normally is blow into each of the 2 ends and the vac nipple all should not allow air to pass. Mine failed and I cut I open to see the diaphragm was torn.

Today I pulled out the fuel filter expecting to see the two part type which you can split and extract the paper element filter to replace or clean because I couldn't find one listed but it was the one piece type pn7L5919679 aka touareq filter. So I put it back in but before I popped off the hoses and the fuel that drained out was looking clean. Also of note was that both the carpets was cut so someone had obviously been in there before. I'm eagerly waiting to get down to 1/4 tank again. 1/2 tank left will drink that quickly tomorrow and we'll see wat's up.

Well done Thomas. Was the old DV leaking? What's your boost pressure running before and now?

As clarksongli said keep the AC fan on at all times it will keep the radiator cooler. You may have to hold the revs above idle if stuck in traffic. I managed my head Gasket overheating like this for a month in middle east heat.

I didn't understand "Henn coupling". Pls explain.

Piece of cake don't sweat it. If you get any problems just ping me a message. Good luck. New fuel cap and change over valve fitted today and no surprise surprise no difference. Still have more than 1/2 tank fuel so trying to burn it off fast to get back to 1/4 tank or less and see if it actually will fix the issue or it was just a fluke. I will be pulling out my fuel filter and cleaning it tomorrow. Will measure it up to find a suitable paper replacement cartridge from OE filter manufacturer rather than buying the whole plastic thing from porsche which is pointless.

Thomas Why not syphon some Coolant out and add a bottle and a half of redline water wetter? May help with your trip and when your back you can work on the permanent fix. https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74

And Coolant mix doesn't freeze in the winter like water will! Assuming the right mix ofcourse.

Thermostat I would put my money on.

Yes I also read this info but can't find it now. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=9PA-03-06&section=103-15 Looking at the components is it possible your tensioning bolt item 6 is loose? Be careful it's not a case of just tightening this bolt. There is some special procedure involved and tools maybe. Sorry I don't have anymore info.

Went to check the relay, but was confused by what I saw as it didn't relate to the relay info I had found l. Maybe wrong year or I'm missing something? Anyone know which relay is the AC and which relay is the rear defogger or is the same as the AC relay, just looking to do a simple swap to see if the problem persists. Drove the car today 45 degree outside and the AC stayed on the whole time.

Can you describe the sequence of temperature rise and fall? Example the temp at idle rises to 100 and holds or fan cuts in and thermostat opens and temps fall to 80 again? Or only falls to 80 if you rev above idle for a little bit?

This is good news Thomas. When my head Gasket was blown the vacuum wouldn't pull hard down to this level. I think given your above info you have a sticky or stuck thermostat. You didn't confirm the belt isn't slipping on the water pump pulley at idle?

Assuming you have servotronic steering, the problem is likely a speed sensor fault. The servotronic uses the psm/abs speed signal to determine wheel speed and adjust steering power assistance. The bump must be the trigger to highlight the sensor failure briefly. Another post also mentioned a "small wire " broken or loose that goes to the servotronic steering rack pump, the post didn't mention what that small wire was for unfortunately but it did affect steering assistance. P0441 is for evap purge soleniod valve faulty. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16825/P0441/001089 Unrelated to steering fault.

Don't rule out a sticky/stuck thermostat or a faulty temp sensor (more unlikely).

Thomas, you know when my head Gasket fault was diagnosed I had over heating at idle!!!!!!!! Remove the expansion cap when completely cold and quickly sniff the water, if you smell petrol or anything similar to gas fumes then sorry your head Gasket is likely blown. If you Press the throttle the temp comes down correct, I also had a new water pump but it didn't make any difference. Sure your serpentine belt is not slipping? Belt and tensioner in good condition? Should hear it slip on the pulley if this is the case. The fan is not really going to cut in (unless AC is on) and thermostat fully open until the temp reaches about 87-90 degrees because the system at idle should maintain 80 degrees middle of gauge all the time (even in 40 degrees in dubai). Mine only goes above middle if I drive hard in low gears ie short burst of acceleration which increases engine heat production but not getting a lot of air flow past radiator as I'm stopping after the burst of acceleration for example. After the thermostat will open fully and the temp quickly drops to 80 in just a minute and holds without any issue indefinitely. If head Gasket blown you will loose Coolant most likely. I was loosing 1 litre every 100km. If an air locked, after you've been for a drive the water level will drop after cooling over night, the air bleeds and returns to the expansion tank, so when completely cold open the expansion cap and top off the Coolant. FYI with 4 zone AC the Coolant capacity is 21 litres, with 2 zone AC 18 litres IIRC. The danger with increasing temp which decreases when you rev above idle is localised overheating and then leading to head Gasket failure. Be careful don't let it climb near 100 degrees.

This is so true, the black colour, leather interior roasting pot Cayenne AC can't cope with +40 degrees, it was 48 in early July in sharjah stuck in bumper to bumper traffic omg we gave up and drove home. I use my audi in the day time for work now. Well at least that tells me something that when the system runs cool ish it is pretty much at its full capacity for these temps. By September it should be able to cope with the temps here. Thanks for the link and costs, I'm really hoping its the relay or a temp sensor lol. Will keep this updated.

Thank you for the tips, will be doing the bypass power up check asap. I noticed in my receipts from previous owner it had a new compressor 4 years ago at a whopping cost from Porsche. Omg pls not again I'm so broke.....sniffle sniffle ......