lewisweller

Easy yes. One 10mm bolt at the top and the. Pull up and out towards the engine and out towards you. Access via the wheel arc.

Thomas remove the air box completely. Then you can have straight through access. It the same place I took the picture from.

Not strictly true. Line 10 goes direct to the n75 valve without a T. Indeed line 5 goes to a T before it goes to each wastegate actuator. The bleed off turbo reference air return pipe (part of part 14 the top vac pipe) from the other n75 port goes back down to the right side and re-enters the "closed measure air" system. Even if this pipe is broken it won't cause overboost maybe some idle or lean adaption at worse, it's effectively a vacuum leak. So to clarify pipe 10 needs to be not blocked and not leaking so the n75 and Ecu can do its job to use the wastegates to control boost smoothly and not overboost. You can get overboost code if the map sensor is disconnected also. So don't rule this out as possible component failure or wiring/ plug issue.

If the sound comes from the foot pedal assembly could it be related to the mini Gas strut there?

Go back to the dealer, this is surely a software issue and only the dealer can resolve this really.

Up until sold the wiper still worked just fine. I'm sure of they stop working the new owner will swiftly Whatapps me about it. Lol. Got someone coming to see the Audi tomorrow! It's an old classic saying "the first to see will buy" , but in this case first to drive will definitely be hooked. So I may be using a rental for a while until we move to uk.

Found the picture. See the pipe where it is clipped to the alternator and then connects the the turbo, that is part number 10, boost reference. You most probably have to remove the turbo inlet plastic pipe part number 3 in the second picture attached and the hose to be able to get access to the clip and replace that boost reference pipe.

Does the car run poorly on cold start? Like a bit lumpy or pulsing? Both of mine didn't work and it made absolutely no difference. To be honest if there is no effect and considering the purpose is for warming up the cats a bit quicker, then I wouldn't worry about it. Unless you want to spend some dollar that is and probably one or both pumps are knackered. Motors just burn out, or get seized or the impellor smashes apart and dumps into the pierberg check valve shown in my first picture. Also codes can mean the air flow from that pump is not sufficient, this could be blockage or simply doesn't run.

Thomas if line 10 is broken or leaking you will have overboost! I found mine was very brittle hard and cracked where it connects to the turbo at hose clamp 8. You said it was ambient air, this is not correct, it is the compressor outlet "boost pressure reference" for the n75 to use to control the boost curve and maximum boost allowed. This is the only way the boost is controlled to stop peaking over the "requested boost" and thus if it boost too high it will pop the overboost code. Bit hard to access it, I repair mine whilst doing the alternator twice. I think removing the air box and inner Wheel arc cover plastic will give you some access to get access, then maybe the turbo intake pipe will also need to be removed. I took pictures of the this and posted it I'm sure!

Passenger side is a piece of cake to replace, lucky you. Driver side is a bit of a chore. Passenger side just unscrew a few torx screw on the wheel arc front part and pull back to see the DV. Only need water pump pliers to change it out. 10 mins and you'll be out for a test drive lol

Mike it sounds to me like your leaking boost around the DV itself. Now the only way this happens is the diaphragm is split or the changeover valve positive pressure isnt getting to the DV to hold it shut and stop it opening early and bleeding off your boost back around into the turbo intake. Either that or a boost leak which isn't consistant with your noises really. Have you got drop in air filters or intake ? Makes a lot more induction noise than mine did. I could barely hear my intake or turbos at all. It was a unified roar and go type affair. Yours also doesn't boost very high and its sporadic, sometimes boost is looking ok sometime weak. That either the DV's leaking or the wastegates opening before supposed to. If this is your original DV's then replace 710p and also the vac pipes from the changeover valve all the way past bank 2 and into the Tee and down each side to the DV's. Just in case there is some confusion about the what the changeover valve does here is my quick explanation. 1. Off throttle .. .vaccum in manifold change over valve is pulling the DV's open. This is bypassing any boost from the turbo outlet side to stop it from stalling or surging. This reduces turbo lag when you accelerate again. 2. Part or full throttle the boost pressure inside the manifold is diverted through the changeover valve to each DV to push and help hold closed the DV assisting the spring which is also holding it closed but isn't strong enough to resist the boost alone. (And if you make the spring too strong the vaccum can't open the DV when you lift of the throttle.. Makes sense init). The fact you have weird boost, low sometimes tells me the diaphragm is split on one or more or the delivery of the changeover valve pressure is not getting to the DV (like a broken vac pipe or changeover valve fault. When I bought my ctt it had 0.6bar, replaced both DV's and got 0.8bar +. Infact one was split one was fine.

Just to close this AC issue out. Today was sitting stationary in a que waiting for vehicle test and it was 50oC, the AC was struggling but still I wasn't sweating so not so bad. The rear was warm air mostly so had just the front on which was cool just about enough. When driving the air flow helps and it's fine for this peak summer heat midday with full sun on a big front screen and dash. Conclusion is cayenne can't fully cope with 50oC but it tries it's best if in good working condition.

Thanks Thomas. Maybe I'll visit you in Germany when I come to Europe with the family.

Great. Fixed the clunk at the front, found some loose suspension bolts and the loose steering column bolt. Car feels great and is clean as a whistle. Went through test today just fine, tomorrow transfer to new owner and then concentrate on selling the Audi. !!!!

Sold sold sold. 35,000dhs

Tighten the bolt today. Was infact a normal hex bolt and not a Etorx. So no more play in the steering it's loverly and tight. Also had a knocking noise and found the lower ball joint nut wasn't tight and also the lower control arm bolts were not tight enough either!!! Now its lovely over the humps.

Possible but unlikely the map sensor is faulty. No harm in cleaning it with some carbon cleaner. The n75 valve is very reliable and I doubt a new one is faulty.

Hard to understand which noises are what really. Make another video with the camera on the dials so we can see the boost speed gear and rpm. This help to understand better. Also make the video long maybe from 2nd gear hard acceleration up to 5th gear. Autobahn is nice..........lol

Use a video compress app and keep it less than 55mb

Make a recording! Tomorrow I'm meeting a German who is interested in the car, I hope it goes well. 36,500dhs.

Top man thanks

Oil normal.

Have you got any pictures of this? I have this annoying play in the steering since they dropped the engine the seal convertor. Thanks

I should export this b * tch to Germany and make a killing. I also notice most have above 200,000km some above 300,000km! Here in uae if car above 200,000km the price is super low.

2006 with 129,000 km full option