Zakowsky

Loaded the kids in the car to go hiking and then saw a puddle of coolant under the front of the engine. Constant drips, red arrow in the picture but actually come off the engine ahead of that, at around the blue arrow, under the sway bar. Can’t see anything wet from the top, but can’t see much in general. Can’t see from the bottom either, and it looks like I have to take the oil cooler off (or whatever the box the oil filter is attached to is). Any guesses what this might be - water pump I’m figuring? If so what is the best way to see this area, from the bottom or top? **** it... Thanks. Edit - here is a better picture of where it is actually dripping from, right at the front of the oil pan.

When I put it back together temporarily I didn't, and never heard the plastic rattle or make any noise. When I went back and did a proper fix I riveted one of the two.

I found mine had several rivets in addition to the 5 that are usually shown. This is from the Passenger Front Window thread below. I had to drill out the bottom two blue ones in addition to the 5, they were attached to a plastic guard which is attached to the other side.

Thanks Lewis; I probably won’t do it until I get back, but would definitely do the rear main seal as well. Not sure if it is easier to do the T’s with the transmission out (I think they can do the seals with just the tranny removed), might have to go in over the top anyway, but I am going to order the metal T’s and get it done. I was hoping taking just the transmission out would make access to those waste gates easier, but looking at it from under there, I don’t think it will. But now the wind is out of my sails on all of this - so as I have often posted, my CTT just doesn’t seem to have the kick it should (or had when I first got it), and there were all those posts helping me look for boost leaks etc. Anyway I got in touch with a German ECU programing company, and sent them a whole stack of information including my recordings of the engine performance and related stats. I heard nothing for a week and figured they thought I was just OCD and needed a life outside of engines. But I finally got a letter back from their lead engineer who had in fact been looking it all over. In fine German form (not meant in disrespect at all Thomas!) he informed me that there was something mechanically wrong with my CTT to produce such poor performance, and it should be fixed before they do anything with the software. Seems like my CTT is an embarrassment to the breed! So tonight I am going to use my wireless GoPro on a stick, and resume the search for what might be wrong. It seems to be running fine so it is going to be tough to figure out, but there must be something I am missing.

Thanks – just to note however I only implemented it myself; it was originally someone else’s idea (Jimi, I assume). But as an epilogue to that whole saga, I checked the drive shaft support the other day and it is like the day I installed it 10,000 kms ago. No driveline vibrations or issues so far. But as this thread started with my leaving on a +7000 km drive, ironically I have to make the same drive again, under different circumstances this time, and I am probably going to leave it as is, so it will be put to the test once again. And as an epilogue for the window cable problem, I did subsequently order a kit similar to the one you showed Pkcayenne (except from Okzam), and it installed with no problems and works well. So we’ll see what adventures are in store for the CTT this time, as I have a coolant leak (passenger side smell, only when running, no drips to be found but lost a litre in 3 weeks). Strapped my GoPro to a stick and monitoring on my phone I looked at the T’s and they seem OK (and the coolant pipes have been done), although there is some dampness maybe on the block under them. That might lead to some interesting posts! Other than that I probably won’t get the torque converter seal leak fixed before I go in 4 weeks; I still have the bell housing catheterized, with a hose running from the hole where it drips through to a container. Still 4 mls per day, so I we’ll see if it makes it! Found a place to do the work but after Lewis’s nightmare I am reticent about having it done close to the leaving date.

Welcome back Lewis. In your other post you mentioned it was running fine – does that include the hesitation and stuttering (!), or did you, mean just the driveline issues? For the A/C I’d guess they bumped or bent the low side line getting the engine out since it happened in the shop, maybe straightened it so it is hard to see, but it might be worth tracing the whole thing looking for kinks.

Good to know, thanks. Back when the torque converter seal wasn’t leaking mine would do that in winter and I wondered why. Then it stopped in summer, but started again while it was still warm out but the fluid level got low because of the leak. The day after I filled it up it stopped right away, same starting conditions, so maybe both are factors.

It's not too hard. Yes, the engine has to be running; that is why I prefer to just raise the suspension and turn it off, and put jack stands in loosely just in case. I don't like being under a running vehicle which is on 4 jack stands for some reason! Trust it less than I do the air suspension system. Some people say you should have a person inside that puts the transmission in drive and reverse for a few seconds while you are filling, but I have never noticed a difference in how much it takes by doing this. And with a leaking torque converter seal I have done this a few times. But after reading about what Lewis is going through, now I don't want to get it fixed!

It’s not hard - and you might as well top it up while you are at it too. Get a liter of Mobil D3309 transmission fluid and a pump for the bottle with a long hose. You can put it on jack stands, but I just put it in special terrain mode and turn off regulation (important!). Make sure it is level. Crack the filler plug (17 mm allen hex wrench) before you start, as it might take some force. Don’t remove it. Put a tray underneath for spills. Then start the engine and monitor transmission temperature with whatever is your cable of choice. When it gets to around 36 degrees, take the plug out and stick the hose in. When it gets to 40 degrees, pump in the fluid until it overflows, close it up and you are good to go. If the fluid in there on the plug is a golden or amber color, it might be the original fluid. The Mobil is red, and I am not sure if mixing them is OK, but after reading countless threads I think it is. But everyone has a different opinion of these kinds of things. If it is red then the fluid has probably been changed before. You said you think it’s low - a good sign that it is low is when you start driving when it is cold and soon after starting the engine, it goes into 1st with PSM on (as you know it should start in 2nd). When it is really low, it won’t want to shift from 2nd to 3rd. This will happen independent of any valve body issues. Good luck.

Have a good trip to the UK Lewis.

Nightmare is right...keep at it though; every bit they fix will be less for you to do yourself in the long run. Hope its resolved before you leave.

Might not be relevant in this case, but I found that if you use a coupling adapter (like a 7 to 4 pin) that has built in LEDs to “test” the lights are functioning it screws up something on the Cayenne side of things and generates weird behaviors and errors (on mine anyways). The test lights are basically useless anyway, because they don’t work properly unless the trailer is attached - so why not just look at the trailer lights... So if your kit (or the left over Curt hitch) for some reason has indicator LEDs it might cause problems. But if it doesn’t probably not.

You haven’t paid them, and they have to fix the suspension and rear main seal leak if that is part of what they were contracted to do. If they really screwed up the vehicle that much maybe give them the option of buying it from you. They might go for it if the repair costs out weigh what they could patch it up and flip it for. Would end the nightmare for you anyways. Now I really don’t want to bring mine in for the seal...

Interestingly I have the opposite issue. Mine is a 2004 CTT, and to my surprise it was running a bit sluggish, but when I opened it up with the a/c on, it had more kick to it. I think perhaps the ignition timing is being changed to compensate for the increased load on the engine by the a/c - we know from the factory these vehicles are vastly under tuned, so there is head room to push it to compensate. To test this I am going to log my ignition timing under the two conditions. I bet there is a difference. But before spending a lot on sensors and gaskets, I’d try re-training the throttle and resetting the fuel trim and adaptations, if you have a cable. Although a clean throttle never hurts. Added Note: I just tried driving it with the HVAC completely off, and it is stronger with mine too! Mudman, you say this is "normal" for the 2004's but costs too much to fix - do you know what the cause of this is? Thanks.

Good luck with the sale. Those pictures with the engine out are horrifying! They look like an anti-drunk driving ad. I don’t think I’m up for doing this one myself.

Looks awesome; I can’t see how it didn’t sell right away. The new front end really changes the look. I still find the description of the 2004 as a 911 crossed with a roller skate amusing. Are those stock rims? 20” or 22”? They look just like mine except in silver, but I thought mine were aftermarket...

That sucks. But if my conversion factors are correct still less than here. Got my first quote for the job at 1300$ CAN, which is like a grand US. But by the sound of it they don’t have much experience (or special tools) for the Cayenne so will keep shopping. But my quote is transmission out only. Would be nice to get at the turbos and do some work on the wastegates. My transmission leak is holding at 5 mls per day. But it’s running pretty good though, and I even waxed it for a change of pace. Sounds odd but I had no idea how loud the aftermarket exhaust is; I’ve owned it mainly in the winter so with the windows closed you don’t hear much. Now that spring is finally starting here I opened it up next to a wall and man does it speak up! I don't think I have seen a picture of your entire vehicle Lewis, you should post one after the paint is done.

Thanks guys...yeah, it was like one of those, I should just put a **** hose in there which became, well maybe that is not a bad idea. The leak is holding at 4-5 mls per day, and seems not to change with how much or how hard I drive, so much less than yours Lewis, which I guess is torn rather than damaged. I have a friend in town with the same vehicle, same problem, and we are shopping around for an indy to do the work at a reasonable price. But in the mean time I can keep driving it with no mess and monitor if things go south fast. For all I know it could have been leaking since I bought it, and this just lead to the large build up under the protection panel that soaked the pan, and I only saw it when it extended to the frame rails on either side. Hope the injector cleaning solves the hesitation problem, and who knows, maybe you will want to hang on to a freshly painted, smooth running non-leaking Cayenne after all this is done!

Sorry it didn’t sell Lewis, but $400 in labor, wow, I’m looking at 2 grand here! So as a true Poorsche owner, check out my short term solution. I basically catheterized the bell housing; I put a nylon hose fitting into the hole where the ATF leaks from, ran that into a clear tube with a sealed end. The goal was to separate how much was leaking from the gasket still and how much (and how fast) it was coming out the torque converter seal. The line tucks up inside the cross member when I am driving. After a few days I can see now that all the ATF is coming entirely from the seal, and I am losing about 5 mls per day. That gives me about 3-4 months before the transmission starts acting up I figure. Ironically the system actually works pretty well, no more mess or drips. So now all I have to do is slap a 0.2 micron filter on the line, tap a port into the transmission and recirculate the ATF, problem solved! Just kidding...kind of!

To possibly close out this thread, just wanted to post a last 0-60 log. After flushing the transmission the shifting improved, and so this is how it looks with the Y-pipe and intercooler hoses well sealed, engine running well and trany shifting properly. Speed is in blue (kms), boost in green (700 = 0.7 bar) and RPM red (600 = 6000 rpm). The time samples correspond to about a 6.2 second 0-60 mph time, boost is well into the 0.7’s now, the 1-2 shift is cleaner and given the tires size that time is OK I guess. There is still a small vacuum leak somewhere, because I still get a slight dip at idle, but the air blows hot theses days when on Lo, so maybe the vacuum line to the heater control unit is leaking and I haven’t checked into that yet.

Yeah, I can hear that, lol! While my Cayenne was down I was driving the family around in the 944; it was a lot of fun actually, and reminded me why I started liking Porsche in the first place. So easy to work on, and the engineers used to go out of their way to make it that way. Even with a quarter of a million miles on it, the 944 always gets us there. Too bad Porsche changed so much, but what hasn’t in 30 years. Good luck at the auction. As for my transmission saga, it still continues; I am getting a few drops per day from the pan gasket still. Not sure if it is under torqued or over torqued. I can’t believe anything is as low as 7.5 ft-lbs, but I tightened them up a bit more and the drips got bigger. It is strange, because sometimes I see some drops from the torque converter seal bolt hole, sometimes I don’t. And sometimes it is wet with ATF in front of the bolt holes as well. Haven’t figured out the relationship to engine speed yet. If it is only a few drops per day I might hold off on the seal replacement. Just fill it back up when the shifting gets bad! Hope you keep lurking here after your Cayenne is gone Lewis!

Sad to hear it is going up for sale, but on the other hand sometimes it is for the best. As may be the case with mine. I will see how it presents over the next few days. Curious though, are you going to buy another one?

Nice...if I resolve my torque converter seal problem I will be doing the same thing at some point.

To end this story (and I guess I will be beginning a new one, maybe...), I wound up using a new VW gasket; I bought one and compared it to my old one and the ridges on the transmission side were noticeably thicker in the new one, and so I just put the new one on to have no worries. The gasket doesn’t leak and is all good with the pan. But some things to note: - after measuring properly, I drained out about 5 liters of ATF, but only about 6.2 went back in. Vehicle was level, temperature correct and all that. So I must not have drained close to it all, even though it sat with the pan off for a day. So it wasn’t as low as I thought. Used Mobil 3309 btw. - transmission shifts fine again, no starting in 1st with PCM on, 2-3 shift up and all others fine. No 5-4 jolt, but that only happened occasionally and I haven’t driven it too much yet. But overall the transmission is running great. - but the bad part is I think it is in fact leaking from the torque converter seal. I tested it three times last night, being progressively less easy on it, checking for leaks between each run, and saw none. The final test was for about an hour, and when I got home the bolt hole of despair was dry. Was relieved, but this morning I checked it and there was about two drops of new clean ATF that had come from the hole. I don’t know what constitutes a big leak or a small leak, but if it isn’t a DIY fix (and Lewis if you are not doing it, I probably won’t be doing it!), not sure what the future holds for keeping the car. Going to get some quotes. Note - after reading, I guess I should have seen this coming as the coolant pipes had burst before I bought the car and were all upgraded, which I thought was good, but now I see how this often leads to seal failure due to the coolant pouring into the bell housing.

I was thinking that, but I worry with transmissions any small threads of silicon that might come off in the pan could get sucked into the small passages in the valve body. Going to try it tonight and see how it goes.