Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

brwilson

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    17

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by brwilson

  1. brwilson
    A second opinion from another builder confirms that the AOS probably failed, but he disputes that there was starvation. He says the engine has weakness in the rod bearings that does not allow enough oil at high rpm, and the AOS failure probably caused some hydro lock that exerted too much pressure on the pistons. Lots of opinions.
  2. brwilson
    Talking with a local engine builder here in town over the phone, it looks like the gold flakes are a failed connecting rod bearing. It most likely failed due to high cornering Gs that starved the engine of oil, probably damaging the rod and crank. I guess an upgraded baffle may have prevented this. The earlier misfire codes were troubling, but may have been the AOS being overwhelmed and spraying oil into the intake, momentarily fouling the plugs on that bank. I guess can happen if the car is topped-off with oil while tracking, which I did--he recommends running the oil on the low side when at the track. Makes sense to me, but we would have to pull apart the engine to fully diagnose.
  3. brwilson
    I could probably find a rebuild I could live with, but having had the taste of the track I would be on a slippery slope to necessary replacements and upgrades that would definitely exceed my budget. I may not be comfortable pushing the car again which would completely defeat the purpose of ownership.
  4. brwilson
    I am investigating rebuilding, but as you say, unless I plan on keeping the car for a while it is not worth it. The car really only has value to me at that point since it isn’t a perfect car. Honestly, I didn’t pay much for the car, but have spent a lot of time and effort fixing little things that probably don’t matter, but I would just have to start over with a different car. Maybe my car, with a solid rebuilt motor would ok for a few more years. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. brwilson
    Someone might find this interesting...
  6. brwilson
    Filter will be first. I have the magnetic drain plug, which I may check next, and probably even drop the sump plate. In the past, I have found a few tiny pieces of plastic in the sump, and a few specks of aluminum or other non-ferrous metal in the filter. They never concerned me before as they were very few and tiny. My fear is that it may have lost part of a chain ramp or some other vital in the timing chain path that caused the misfire codes in bank 2 and engine knock, then a chain slackened and skipped teeth allowing the pistons and valves collide. But I am making this stuff up and have no idea what I’m talking about. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. brwilson
    At first the sound was more of a misfire, then the grinding (like road noise or but with engine speed) then the diesel ping/rattle, then the loud knocking—like the rod knock or piston slap examples. This all developed in less than a minute over the course of a half mile, and I couldn’t hear from outside. When I started it at the shop near track the owner/mechanic (a BMW guy) was shocked at the sound. I can repair most things on my car, but I don’t have the time, tools, or space to do much regarding the engine at this level. This is the one thing I worried about. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. brwilson
    Ran a second track day this Saturday. I am a novice, but I could tell the car did not seem to have its normal power after the first session. Second session, check engine light flashed several times when I was coming down the straights. I pulled off track but the light was off. Durametric said code was for misfire on cylinders 4 and 6 (I think) and a warning about damaging the cats, but still, no lights. I cleared the codes, decided quit for the day and to drive into town for lunch. Engine was driving very rough for about a mile, seemed to be delayed coming off the revs and throttle—would spin for a moment coming off throttle, and really started to loose power. I slowed way down and tried to limp it back to the track for some help. Then I noticed some grinding and knocking noises—knocking like ping/rattle of a diesel luging in a way-too-high gear. I pulled over, and things just got worse, really loud mechanical knocking, then it died. I tow-strapped it to a track shop and started it up, but it really started to knock LOUD, more like something hitting. I killed the ignition after about a second an decided to not start it again. Got the car home, no water in oil (dipstick?), no oil in water (at overflow?), no CEL and no codes stored in memory per Durametric. Dual-row IMS bearing was replaced with LN bearing 45k miles ago. I’m not sure what to do next. I am too afraid to run the motor to diagnose. Drop oil pan? Drop motor? Tow to a shop? Punt? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. brwilson
    Sent via PM
  10. brwilson
    I have one. I’ll try and find it this evening...if someone else doesn’t post first. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. brwilson
    I repaired mine. It was actually easy once I got the confidence to crack it open. You need a special tool ($8 and a soldering iron that will fit it) to heat the ribbon connector and peel the old one off and stick the new. I ended up replacing all three LCDs since a second one went bad and I ended up wanting all three to have the same contrast. I can now do the whole job in just a few minutes, but the first time took me hours. I’d say, send the whole cluster off to a repair service to get fixed if you value your time more than I do, or don’t like to take risks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. brwilson
    Press and hold the down arrow button to bring up the "User" menu. Rotate the selector knob until it says "LED," then use the left or right multi-selector buttons to choose LED OFF. It is in the manual for the radio, not the car, if you still have it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. brwilson
    I had a bunch of misfire codes on all cylinders and flashing CEL after removing my air box and cleaning the engine. I unplugged the main wiring harness plugs in the passenger side of the engine compartment, blew the connections out with compressed air (in case I got some water in there somehow), plugged everything back together and everything is fine. May have been a fluke. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. brwilson
    2000 C2, 150k, LN dual-row ceramic swap at 129,400. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. brwilson
    Connection for automatic spoiler/fan/brake light? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. brwilson
    The first time I took a risk and used some force and it just popped loose, but mine is from a 2000 C2 so slightly different. The next couple times I used a guitar pick, and finesse, to slide around and force it apart. I am not sure being careful is helping me since it just gets easier to open every time. I have one last LCD to replace--we'll see how it goes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. brwilson
    I have had to open mine a half-dozen times this month--chasing down and replacing the LCD screens. That top clip is a hidden one, tricky. Also, there are some clips that hold the giant plugs to the back that need to be released to pull off the circuit board if needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.