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hugo kohl replied to hugo kohl's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I replaced my water pump and thermostat at the same time as coolant tank so I don't see this as a problem and in any case, the car is not overheating, rather it is running at ideal temp. Im wondering if it could be the wires connected to the coolant tank sensor and will be checking these next.
99, c2, 120k Upon startup I get a red blinking light on my temperature gauge. Car has not been overheating, coolant level is good, engine compartment fan is good and I don't have any coolant leaks. I changed my coolant tank out about 6 months ago and everything has been fine since. Any suggestions?
hugo kohl replied to hugo kohl's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Thanks to all of you for several easy suggestions as to how to track this down. I'll post up as the problem reveals itself. Right now the battery is disconnected and I'm changing the water pump and thrermostat. It wont be until after I complete this task that I start tracking down the battery drain. I'm waiting on a 160* thermostat in the mail.
1999, 996 140k I think I have a problem with my battery discharging so much that the car wont start if I leave it sitting for more than 2 days. I cant find any obvious thing that might be draining it, ie, interior lights etc. Is there a procedure to detecting weather the alternator is charging or something is draining?
1999, 996, 140k I started out changing a leaking coolant reservoir tank. After completing this task I had misfire codes on all cylinders. After changing the plugs, plug tubes and coils the misfire codes started "roaming" around. After removing and re-seating the coils and their plugs several times the misfire codes went away and were replaced by intake temperature codes and roaming emission codes accompanied by a rough idle. I cleaned the idle control valve and for now the car is running well with no codes. I really enjoyed struggling my way through the exercise but have to wonder, Whats next? being able to get some great suggestions and experienced information was a tremendous help. Thanks Loren, Ahsai, brwilson, dbjoe996 for your guidance.
My car is now re-assembled and the misfire codes have been replaced with new codes: P0102 MAF low voltage P0112 Intake temperature sensor P1319 misfire P1318 Cyl 6 emission related P1316 cyl emission related The MAF code was due to my disconnecting the MAF sensor. Upon startup I have a very low curb idle Approx 600 rpm If I disconnect the MAF the idle instantly rises to 1200 rpm and than drops to a normal 900 rpm. There is no obvious un-burnt fuel smell like before Even though the engine is idling very low, there seems to not be a misfire issue anymore. what diagnostic procedure or process should I follow now? I was thinking about cleaning or replacing the "idle speed air control valve"
Whew! now I can stop looking. Thanks!!!
while reassembling the coil shield, then muffler on the passenger side of my car after changing spark plugs, tubes and coils I found this male plug dangling by itself in the passenger side of the engine compartment. It is connected the the same bundle that the MAF sensor plug comes from. After about 30 min of searching I cant find where it might go??? Any suggestions appreciated
Ahsai, I just tried your suggestion.. I re seated the two coils that were giving misfire codes and restarted. This time I have no codes but did have a low idle rpm and had to play with the throttle to keep it running. After about 30 seconds of low rpm idle i disconnected the MAF. The idle went frpm 600 rpm to 1400 but hen lowered to regular 800 with no misfires. I repeated connecting and disconnecting MAF several times with identical results. After 5 min of idling and revving engine I still get no codes. Tomorrow am I'l reconnect the mufflers see what happens. I did expect to get a MAF code but it was never disconnected for more than 30 sec at a time. I appreciate the suggestion. I'll keep you posted as info presents.
I haven't tried this yet. Loren advises to stop changing things in a random way and that the MAF is not part of the curb idle and comes into play after 4000rpm. I'm hoping for some step by step diagnostic procedure?
Thanks for suggesting that. I went back and checked them all, and the electrical connections to all six coils are properly made as far as I can tell; as in, the male and female ends are properly seated and the protective boot is in place. In this last start-up the car idles properly for a few moments and then goes into a rough idle. By that I mean you can hear the engine missing, rpm drops to the point where you have to play with the throttle to keep it running and you can smell unburned gas. However, after another short interval the rpm rises to normal range (900 rpm) for a few seconds and then goes rough again and I get the flashing cell and error codes telling me about misfires. My conclusion is that I've got bad electrical connections or bad coils somewhere. Is there a way to do a simple diagnostic that can determine if a coil is bad? What I'm down to trying is removing all the coils and plugs and testing the continuity with an ohm meter. Loren suggested that there are any number of things that can cause a misfire after changing plugs but I'm running out of solutions to try. Any advice is much appreciated.
I removed, inspected and reinstalled the #'s 1 and 3 coils and also added fresh dialectic grease to the end of the boots. Its worth noting that I never felt a "click" seating any of the coils. Upon close inspection, the contact between the coil and the spark plug is a coil push spring. I measured the distance between the end of the spring and the plug and they do make contact. The conductive grease should help insure proper conductivity. Upon re-start I did not re-install the mufflers. I did however get a new set of error codes for the #4 & #6 cylinder misfires with a flashing cel. I then removed and reinstalled the #'s 4 & 6 coils and restarted and now get codes for the #'s 6 & 3 cylinders. could these problems originate at the power supplies feeding the individual coils?
I doubt that the fuel lines got any dirt in them but its hard to know unless the injectors can be diagnosed as clogged. My gut is improperly seated coils but Ill need to get it back up off the ground and broken down to reseat the #1 & #3 coils. It smells, literally, like unburned gas is passing out the exhaust. I was also thinking of starting without the MAF connected. I inspected around the MAF for possible air leaks but dont find any.
The car runs rough. It feels and sounds like its not firing on all cylinders. the rpm is low (400 rpm) and will stall if you let it. There is a strong exhaust smell of un-burned gas. codes are: P0300 random multiple cylinder misfire P0301 cylinder 1 misfire P0303 cylinder 3 misfire I used Beru Ultra Spark Plug; 14FGR 6KQUs and torqued to 22 lbs as per instructions. ill double check the coil packs for proper seating on the plugs as well as but at this point I don't think they are cracked as I installed those screws with locktite and firmly "snugged".
1999, 996, 117k miles Due to leaking I recently changed my coolant reservoir tank, which involved disconnecting and re connecting 2 fuel lines.. Upon restarting the car I had a rough idle and CEL. I purchased a $100b code reader, read a bunch of stuff online and decided to clean the MAF sensor, change the air filter, spark plugs, plug tubes and coils. upon today's startup I get an erratic/rough/low rpm idle, flashing CEL and the following codes: P0102 mass air flow circuit low P1319 misfire emission related P1318 misfire cylinder 6 emission related P1315 misfire cylinder 3 emission related P1313 misfire cylinder 1 emission related Somehow I went from a leaky tank to some bad stuff based on a do-it-myself moment. I wonder if the coil packs might not be perfectly seated? I'm thinking a new mass air flow sensor and all four O2 sensors need replacing?? Please advise. Hugo Kohl