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Showing results for tags 'spark plug'.
Found 4 results
2007 997 was running rough. The Durametric said misfire cylinder one. Checked the forums and saw most likely culprit was either bad spark plug, bad ignition coil, or both. Oreilly’s had the Bosch spark plug and a coul that was labeled Import Direct. For the sake of convenience I bought the plug and coil from them. The coil was actually the newer version Beru (oem) with the longer bolts. Much easier job than I ever imagined. There are good tutorials on YouTube. Engine runs great and I cleared the codes. No check engine light and codes haven’t returned.
1999, 996, 117k miles Due to leaking I recently changed my coolant reservoir tank, which involved disconnecting and re connecting 2 fuel lines.. Upon restarting the car I had a rough idle and CEL. I purchased a $100b code reader, read a bunch of stuff online and decided to clean the MAF sensor, change the air filter, spark plugs, plug tubes and coils. upon today's startup I get an erratic/rough/low rpm idle, flashing CEL and the following codes: P0102 mass air flow circuit low P1319 misfire emission related P1318 misfire cylinder 6 emission related P1315 misfire cylinder 3 emission related P1313 misfire cylinder 1 emission related Somehow I went from a leaky tank to some bad stuff based on a do-it-myself moment. I wonder if the coil packs might not be perfectly seated? I'm thinking a new mass air flow sensor and all four O2 sensors need replacing?? Please advise. Hugo Kohl
Hi guys! this is my first post! let's see if anyone can help me out with this problem. i have a 2004 porsche cayenne turbo with 120 000 miles. took it for a high speed run last night (130+ mph). when i got home i noticed a very rough idle and the car was shaking/vibrating. i can also hear a noise from the engine similar to an exhaust leak. the check engine light was already on prior to that ride (codes are : p2187, p2189, p0011, p0441) no new codes so i assume there is no missfires? feels like it runs on 7 cylinders.. coils and spark plugs have been replaced recently can a high speed run causes a blown spark plug/coil ? i still have boost so i assume it is not a boost/vaccum leak? can it be a stuck valve, bad spring valve all of a sudden? do i need a compression test or how can i check if one cylinder is missfiring? (i speak french sorry for grammar) thanks for your help! jp
I spent the weekend on major maintenance: I attempted: 1. Cabin Filter (no issues) 2. Oil change (no issues) 3. Power steering fluid (question) 4. Front Rotor Change (no issues) 5. Brake fluid bleed (question) 6. Clutch fluid bleed (no issues) 7. Radiator and A/C Heat Exchanger clean-out (note of caution) 8. Spark Plug Change (major problem) 9. Cabin Filter (no issues) All parts were ordered from Sunset Porsche. Power Steering fluid: I could not figure out for the life of me what the purpose of the small rubber cap on the side of the reservoir? I just extracted what I could from the reservoir and then filled with Pentosin, started the car, turned the wheeel end-to-end several times and then repeated 5 times. I don't know if there's another way to swap the fluid. Brake Fluid bleed: (I used 1 liter) The instructions in one of the threads call to drain the outer caliper and then the inner. Why not the inner first because that is where the fluid source initiates it's entry into a caliper, i.e., line to inner caliper, line to between inner and outer caliper. Wouldn't it be logical to first drain inner so fluid is fresh in the inner chamber and then to drain the outer? Radiator and A/C Heat exchanger clean-out: Now I know what remover card is... I remember when I purchased the car, I could not for the life of me figure out what this plastic useless credit card was meant for. Now I know it's for the fog lamp housing removal. I used a credit card and it worked... The removal of the bumper is much easier than I thought, especially after repeating the removal twice because I forgot to plug the 'ambient temperature sensor connector' and I guess I didn't plug the side marker in all the way. Note of caution: be very careful when removing the connector and disconnecting the harness on the passenger side that links the bumper electrical. I snapped the locking connector and the tolerances are very tight so you have to cable tie it together. (electrical tape was not enough tension) On Sunday, one of neighbors asked if someone stole my wheel on Saturday night! You can see the connector for the Ambient Temperature Probe that I forgot to connect in the lower right hand corner... The red bucket is for scale. The driver side. I don't know why but the driver side was much dirtier than the passenger side. this images are after vacuuming but not before the water spray. Definitely a cure for OCD. You can see the salt tally on the fan housing. If you don't know, we salt our roads here in Michigan so if a surface is not treated, it will corrode. In this case it was mild surface accumulation, not brown rust. Spark Plugs: I read and re-read the articles on spark plug change. I can't remove the muffler because the bolts that clamps the connector between the muffler and exhaust manifold is completely rusted. Believe it or not, this is the only corrosion of fasteners on the car. (both sides) I'm going to grind the nuts and replace the faster: bolt, nut, washer combination. Anyone know the size? Are there any material scientists out there? If I were to grind this off and replace with a corrosion resistant fastener, which material should I use? I'm thinking of using a screw made from SS 300 that meets QQ-P-35 and meet FF-S-86 standards. Then again this material has to resist very high temp and stress from expansion of pipes. I'm also curious if anyone in California could check to see if there's is corroded? Ok, even if I could remove the bolts, how would you completely remove the muffler? If you see in this image, the bolt which loosened would lift up but it cannot due to interference from the body. there is no room to remove the coils because of the muffler mount. A view from the bottom: I"m wondering if anyone else has this working limitation. Last question: when the car ran without the ambient temp sensor attached, it faulted so now i have a 'visit Engine Center' on my start-up dash, error 17 = intermittent Amb Temp... How long before this disappears? Update: it disappeared this morning = 12 hours later. Thanks.