Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Roxie

Members
  • Content Count

    8
  • Donations

    $0.00 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Roxie

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Fields

  • From
    Denver, CO
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    Ford Ranger FX4
  • Future cars
    Cayenne Turbo
  • Former cars
    Too many to list.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks for the "good" engine comparison. That engine sounds similar to the ones I've been listening to other than I hear more noise on the drivers sides, middle 2 cylinders. I've heard that once warm they can get quiet early on before the oil burning near death time. This is what I'm trying to distinguish. Would I be buying an engine as you've described as normal or one that is early in the death cycle? Thanks for the video though, It's the first I've seen that was considered normal and of no concern.
  2. So from super zoom to boom. I'm sorry to hear and haven't heard about the oil coolers leaking until this conversation. So losing oil and a similar knocking sound to the cylinder wall coating loss/piston slap sounds are similar. One case the piston rings run dry and in another there's plenty of oil but lack of space tolerance leading to a high friction environment similar to running low on oil. Am I getting this thought right or are all of them from low oil amounts/poor quality oils with regards to long usage times, i.e. 15-20k miles oil change intervals? Does anyone know when Porsche changed the interval to 10k off hand? Regardless, your expense will be a great one and I'm sure most feel your pain. What's needed is a cheaper more readily available rebuild option other the company in the SE, 911 guy or super 6, can't remember theirs name but they seem to have it down on the repair or the dealer then I'd be less apt to purchase a vehicle with not enough metal in some instances, i.e. metal lines, even though its overall mass is great and off tolerances in others. They gotta make money some how...
  3. Ugh, that looks and sounds ugly. Sorry for your pain. Thanks for the video! Did yours begin as most with ticking which then turned into knocking or due to the catastrophic nature of the failure did it go straight to a knock?
  4. Thanks for the video! I have seen that one and it sounds very loud. When I'm listening to the one here in CO it doesn't seem nearly as loud. It can only be heard from up top meaning when I move down to the wheel well, I cannot hear it anymore. The noise sounds like it is coming from under the drivers rocker cover, one of the middle 2 cylinders. My concern is that this light knock would turn into the knock in the video. Thanks, Frank
  5. To all: Thanks for all of the replies! Those plugs look terrible, where is the nice chocolate brown? Good luck with the rebuild. I've listened to a 05 CTT for a second time and this time it was much colder here in CO. I did a 10F cold start and the knock on the drivers side was even louder than when I heard it last when the temp. was in the 40F's. I'm thinking this is an engine on its way out? It only has 69k and they are asking $17k but I'm avoiding it like the plague. I've heard multiples with this same side light knock. I'll keep looking/listening... I wish someone would post a youtube video of a cold start, after the engine drops to low idle to listen at a "good" engine with mileage between 70-150k miles. Everything I've watched/listened to was already knocking badly. Thanks, Frank
  6. Also, I've read the engine needs pulled to repair/replace the turbos on the 4.5L, is this the same on the 4.8L's? Thanks.
  7. Thanks to all! Bigbusuki, by high mileage, what are you thinking? I'm looking at 2005 with 69k and another with 97k. Boroscoping is a good idea but I thought I read that the scoring was below the piston and only visible if you drop the oil pan? The sound I'm hearing is a very slight and light knock on the drivers side middle of the row. I know this is tough to answer without hearing, but wondered if it was something someone might explain. I asked the dealer if they would do a pre-purchase inspection and they said no way. I didn't know if this was just something they don't want to waste their time on or if they didn't want to be held responsible on an engine that seems to fail dependent upon the number of very cold starts? CO winters aren't typically that cold, at least in Denver. I am a DIY guy, but not if I have to rebuild the engine. Removing the engine alone seems like you need a special lift just to remove? I do have available weekends and $$ within reason. I'm good with $2-3k repairs, but not $20k on a car that is $10-20k to buy. I'd rather spend the ~$35k on a newer 4.8L that doesn't have this problem, correct? I do think the 1st gen body is better looking that any of the newer ones! Thanks for everyone's comments!
  8. Hi, I'd like to ask a question that has been asked, discussed, youtube videoed etc... My apologies, but I've read most of them and haven't found anything similar. I'm looking at a 2004-2006 Cayenne Turbo that I don't want to turn into an engine money pit. I've listened to 8, all cold and most have a very slight knock on the drivers side of the engine. I'm wondering if this is the beginning to the end or some explainable sound. You can only hear it once it drops to a low idle. I went to my local dealer in Denver and they stated they have no way to diagnose, would not perform a new car inspection, but would do a compression check. I realize this is tough to know when the dreaded engine knock may come due to extreme cold, piston expansion, etc...etc... I'm also aware that the turbos were less prone. If I'm going to drop a new engine into an old cayenne, I'd rather do it on a $10k one than $18k which is the present range for a 2004-2005 in CO. Thanks for anyone's help and as a newbie, I hope to purchase a Cayenne and give back via DIY but don't really want to deal with engine issues for 200k+. Thanks again, Frank
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.