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Showing results for tags 'knock'.
I have a 2006 3.2 Cayenne. When I accelerate normally the engine sounds slightly like a diesel until i reach 1900 to 2000 rpm. If I accelerate fast I also get loud engine rattle noise at around 3000, if I drive normal the rattle is not very prominent. No power loss shifts smooth. The engine rattle noise does increase with rpm but disappears around 4000 rpm when car shifts. No rattle at 3000 rpm normal acceleration. Any thoughts?
We have a 2005 Cayenne, about a month ago the 4 wheel drive faulty light came on. Now the last two days while driving when going around a corner or a light acceleration 3 times have heard a real hard knock sounds like coming from under the passenger seat. let off the throttle and it goes away. not sure what to think but i am pretty sure is in the transfer care. any experience or suggestions? is there a way can fix it myself or do have to take to shop?
Hi, I'd like to ask a question that has been asked, discussed, youtube videoed etc... My apologies, but I've read most of them and haven't found anything similar. I'm looking at a 2004-2006 Cayenne Turbo that I don't want to turn into an engine money pit. I've listened to 8, all cold and most have a very slight knock on the drivers side of the engine. I'm wondering if this is the beginning to the end or some explainable sound. You can only hear it once it drops to a low idle. I went to my local dealer in Denver and they stated they have no way to diagnose, would not perform a new car inspection, but would do a compression check. I realize this is tough to know when the dreaded engine knock may come due to extreme cold, piston expansion, etc...etc... I'm also aware that the turbos were less prone. If I'm going to drop a new engine into an old cayenne, I'd rather do it on a $10k one than $18k which is the present range for a 2004-2005 in CO. Thanks for anyone's help and as a newbie, I hope to purchase a Cayenne and give back via DIY but don't really want to deal with engine issues for 200k+. Thanks again, Frank
Hey guys new member here. Recently bought my 2000 Porsche Boxster S back in June and ran through plenty of problems since day 1 but today im a little lost. After a failed oil cooler, oil pump solenoid, new spark plugs, new window regulator, new AOS; im now stuck with a knock coming from from the driver side of the engine (U.S.) I haven't needed to get into the engine since I haven't had serious problems until now. Looking at similar knocks on YouTube, I think its a failed rod bearing. CEL came on for a Cylinder 6 misfire. I read at other posts about getting to them through the oil pan but can't find how. Besides pulling the oil pan, what else do I need to crack open? Do I need to remove the cross bar? By the way, I know something is going on because I pulled the oil pan off already and found alot more metallic flakes from wear and tear than usual. Im pretty sure the previous owner didn't do a oil change when he was supposed to. At this point, Im going to college with 5 classes and launching a business soon, so I hope im not stuck with a major rebuild. Planning to post pictures and video tomorrow. Thanks.
Iv recently purchased a Porsche 966 C4S with 55k miles with a rear end wreck, it had sat for at least 2 months with out a proper start up. upon arrival i did an inspection, it had a few pulleys bent including the tensioner pulley so i can't necessarily run the serpentine belt with out removing the engine and replacing it, air box was broken so it had to be removed including the mass airflow sensor. exhaust was untouched. no damage to the block. after preparing it i started the car for the first time, it ran good i listened in no ticks or knocks everything was running fine ( it ran with out a serpentine belt nor a air box/mass airflow sensor) i ran it for a few minutes then it started to have a slight tick and gradually increased to a steady ticking, i ran a OBD2 test for fault codes, the only codes i got was a mass airflow sensor fault and the throttle body code, other than that no other codes. i read around online i should replace the oil, because it could have been a stuck lifter or sticking valves. i changed the oil with 5w40 and added a valve cleaner to my gas, ran it a a few times for a few minutes at a time not to over heat my engine, at the moment i don't know if this may fix the problem because i can't necessarily drive the car, if any one can tell me if I'm at risk of loosing my engine if i do fix the engine up drive it around, or i should fix it up and take it for a drive and it may go away. or i should just take it straight to a mechanic. Please let me know your thoughts.