blue2000s

It's time to play that game again, "What Just Fell off My Car?" When I pulled the Boxster out of the garage, it left this behind, it was setting near the front of the car. Can anyone identify this little rubber part?

Porsche added a screen to the intake vent in 2003? Can I just add the screen to my 2000 or would I have to replace the entire grill?

1. Nope 2. Nope

Guard Transmission makes them for both the 986 and 986S. http://www.guardtransmission.com/lsd_info.htm

What's it reading? Are you set to celcius?

2000 Boxster S. I'm trying to replace my rear track arms. Is 98633104307 the correct part number? Does anyone make a urethane replacement bushing?

This one's about $250 http://catalog.worldpac.com/mbsmotors/soph...1AQN492BY1AR5HP They're kind of hard to come by because they were obsoleted twice over.

I've seen that kit listed for the 996 but not for the 986. Are there differences that would make it incompatible with the 986 like cable routing or clearances or something?

I've got a very annoying squeak that comes from the passenger side sun visor when it's up against the head liner. It goes away when the visor is flipped towards the windshield. I'd like to take out the mirror and add some felt strips to quiet things down. It looks like there's a plastic ring that's attached to the visor directly and the mirror assembly pops into the ring. I tried to pop the mirror out but I stopped before I figured I'd break something. Does anyone know how the mirror comes out of the visor?

Completely discharging any lead-acid battery will reduce it's life expectancy, Optima or otherwise. That said, I've got an Optima red top that's over 15 years old that sits in a summer car. It's been fully discharged at least three times and the battery continues to recover and function magnificently. http://www.1st-optima-batteries.com/ The thing to know with an Optima battery is that only the 34R red top works in our cars without extending the battery cables because of the post locations.

That reminds me of the story in ROAD & TRACK some time ago where the woman walks into a Ford dealership and says she'd like to take the FISO out for a test drive. After explaining to the Lady that there was no such Ford, she took him out to the parking lot and pointed to the F150.

When I took the throttle body off the car, I noticed that the butterfly is not completely closed in it's neutral position (signals completely disconnected). It can easily be completely closed if you push on it with your finger but it springs back to slightly open. I assume that's the starting position to maintain idle but I've never seen that in other cars before.

I've checked with both dealers within 100 miles from me. Neither of them has ever done a DME flash or knows of doing one for the updated MAF. Strangely, both say the car needs a different MAF, one says the .124.00 part, the other says the .125.01 part. Also, what was the year/VIN cutoff for the .124.00 vs the .125.00 part number change?

I'd suggest erics pull up the shift boot and see what's under there. Take a picture and we'll tell you what it is.

Both of these pictures are of a short shift kit. The top is the plastic one from the 987, the bottom is the aluminum version from B&M. The stock factory shifter housing is white and the pivot point for the shift lever is in the same plane as the center line of the bushings. You'll notice that the shifter pivot point in the top picture is above the center line of the bushings.

Call your dealer and ask them for the suspension spec sheet on your specific car with the specific suspension package you're putting on. They do have it (USA and ROW) so be persistent if you get some resistance.

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

Thanks for the info insite. I have a couple of questions. 1) I assume that you run without PSM on of course, and you mention the ease of rotating with a breathe. I may be over-reading that comment, but I'm not sure I would want the car to rotate that easily on the street. Would you say that the point at which it will do this is well above even spirited street driving? What affect do you think PSM being on would have (would it upset the car)? 2) Just to be sure I'm reading you well. At this point a super ROW M030 street alignment would be on the order of: Front: Cold Pressure: 30psi Toe: 0 Camber: -1.0 to -1.2 Rear: Cold Pressure: 32psi Toe: 1/32" in Camber: -2.0 Thanks, Andy The '99 didn't have PSM as an option.

It's also a matter of driving style and preference, right. Some drivers like more rotation than others and the track that you drive will also change your preference. The Porsche "system" was probably set up to the preferences of their test drivers. Everybody's going to like things a little different. Also, because insite's got different tire sizes and manufacturer's than stock, there's going to be some handling differences between his car and those of a stock wheel/tire package. If you're not interested in lowering your car, the US M030 keeps ride height the same as US stock but uses the increased spring and damping rates of the M030 suspension. You won't get the negative camber that you can with the lowered car.

Here's a couple more. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SHORT-SHIFT...sspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PORSCHE-BOX...sspagenameZWDVW

Most folks do it to fill out the wheel wells. It does shoften the suspension a bit because it increased the lever arm of the suspension. I doubt you'd notice any difference.

Lol thanks for the reply, very informative. :rolleyes: 5mm spacer is fine with the stock lug nuts. Been done 10,000 times before with 0 problems. Wish to continue this argument at all? Maybe you can re-read tool pants and my posts. Regards, Just because something worked for you in the past in a different situation doesn't mean it will work every time. You need to understand the risks of a situation in order to make a good decision. I hold ToolPants' opinion in very high regard based on the knowledge he's shown on this and other boards but everyone takes risks without realizing it at times.

That's a pretty good rule of thumb, but you still need to consider the mating materials to make the correct determination.

Well it's a good thing that I own a Race shop and race cars and build race cars then cause otherwise I wouldn't know what I'm talking about then would I? 5mm won't make a difference on the wheel studs. Many aftermarket wheels have that large a difference in them vs. oem wheels in the depth of the lug nut holes. When was the last time you measured them to make sure they were ok? Right, thought not. You have to remember that OEM also says things to cover them selves from law suits. If in the odd chance something did happen that was totally unrelated to the spacers but a wheel fell off and caused a problem they can say did you replace the bolts which had nothing to do with it and when you say no, they are off scott free. It's not all about engineering when it comes to cars, trust me on that. It's about Money and how they are going to get screwed with what they sell and tell you. If you did change the bolts then they can argue well it wasn't that parts fault then. I would say put on longer studs as well, but you don't have to and it will be fine. I only change out studs however not for longer one's but titanium or magnesium for lighter weight. Lots of companies make some awesome studs & bolts that are super light. In many forms of racing you end up having to run entended wheel studs which protrude though the ends of the lug nuts so you can visibally see they are there and on tight during pre-race inspection anyway so in a real race condition this doesn't even apply. The reason for a minimum thread engagement is to protect people from the threads stripping from the hubs, period. Here's how it works. There is a certain amount of tension on the head of the bolt holding the wheel to the hub. The force at the head is countered by the threads holding the bolt in the hubs. Each turn of thread supports a proportional amount of this force. Half the number of engaged threads and the force on each thread doubles. The local stress in the hub near the face contacting the wheel increases because the load is not as evely spread out along the depth of the thread so the total risk of thread stripping is even greater than double. When the engineers defined the attachment of the wheels, they chose a bolt material, a hub material, a thread pitch and size and bolt length all designed for an acceptable factor of safety to protect from the head of the bolt snapping and/or the threads stripping considering the weakest possible bolt, the sloppiest possible threads and the most possible force on the bolts (lots of torque + some lateral load on the tires). This factor of safetly is typically 2.5-3.0 in this application although I don't know specifically what Porsche uses. When you decrease the number of engaged threads you cut into this safetly margin, possibly significantly. Because there is a nice large margin, you would probably be fine with shorter threads, but my question is why take the risk?

I get the same exact noise on both sides of my 02. It is louder on the passenger side. So, I would like to know what the cause is as well. According to the local Porsche dealer, this is a common problem. The solution is to replace the window regulator. If the car is under warranty take it in and they will replace it. Otherwise, probably best to just live with it until the window stops working. The window regulator was replaced about 3 months before the noise started. Replacing the regulator may fix the problem, but I wonder if it's necessary to replace or if there's an adjustment that can be made. I've noticed that the dealer likes to replace things instead of trying to fix them.