blue2000s

I've noticed lately on my 2000S that I get a reasonalby loud click when my driver's side window reaches full up or full down. It will do it when I do the one touch or hold the button all the way. It only happens on the first operation, then won't do it again for about five-ten minutes, for example, if I open the window and hear the click, then close and open it again, I don't get the click. I took the door panel apart but couldn't find anything out of place. Has anyone else seen this?

They just snapped into place to start with, so you could squeeze all the tabs at the same time and pull it back out. The problem is that squeezing all the tabs at once isn't as easy as it sounds. After screwing around with it for an hour, trying various methods of getting all the tabs in at the same time, I decided it wasn't worth the trouble and just popped them off.

If you still have your owner's manual, it's described pretty well there.

That's fine; however, I'd rather spend $40, use my stock cables, have the battery centered, and a machined and brushed-finish aluminum mounting plate with all stainless steel fasteners that yeilds a pristine installation rather than some pieces of crudely cut metal and some plastic bits...................but maybe that's just my perspective........... Again, you've missed the point of the thread. The DIY section is for instructions on DIY projects. I'd suggest you start a new thread somewhere else if you want to defend your solution.

The reason for this post is to show a way to attach an Optima battery without using the tray method. There are a few companies out there that would be happy to charge you $30-$250 for a piece of plastic or aluminum with holes drilled in it. My point is that it's not necessary to use a second tray. You can install the battery without waiting for other parts, save some money, easily use the stock cables, an locate your battery in the center of the car.

My Optima battery didn't come with the mounting brackets :angry: They look like they make the installation pretty simple, and they don't raise the top of the battery as much as if you used a 3/8" mounting plate underneath, which makes connecting the battery cables easier. And swapping out the battery for a new one looks pretty straightforward The battery came with three different mounting brackets (that finally explain what those square holes in the bottom of the battery are for) and a pedestal that can be used to make it match the height of some standard batteries.

You do realize that Yellow Dog Motorsports makes these in kit form (everything needed to do a 5 min install included) either in plastic or aluminum..................................... Never heard of them. Care to share the link? Unless it costs $2.00, my solution is cheaper.

That's true sometimes. But in Porsche parts, you often seem to pay more than anyone else has to.

Here you go. The M030 isn't adjustable. John V is right on, you won't increase grip by just changing sway bars but you will increase responsiveness and reduce body roll. Keep in mind when comparing sway bars or any kind of torsion bar, that diameter, thickness and material determine stiffness. You can't tell stiffness just by diameter alone. http://www.cb-racing.com/boxster_030.html

I got an optima 34R battery yesterday to replace my failing stock battery. I figured out a way to secure the battery to the tray without having to make the popular adapter plate. The Boxster's battery tray has 9 holes in it. 5 are down the center of the tray in the long direction, 3 of them are threaded for the locking bracket and two are through holes at the ends of the plate. The 4 others are for mounting the tray to the chassis. The Optima battery has flanges at the lower short ends for mounting, just like the Porsche part does. The problem is that the Optima battery is too short to match any of the threaded holes in the tray correctly and placing it all the way over to the driver's side like the stock battery makes the positive terminal too far away for the cables to reach. The Optima needs to sit about centered on the battery tray for both cable to reach the terminals. The Optima comes with some mounting brackets, one of which functions exactly the same way as the stock steel tie-down bracket, it grabs the flanges at the edges of the battery. So now I have two tie down brackets that will grab the flanges of the battery. Test fitting showed that if I used the Optima tie down in the extra hole on the driver's side, I just needed to extend the tie down on the passenger side to grab the passenger side flange of the battery due to the hole locations. I made a 4" by 2" plate of 1/8" aluminum, turned the hold down around so it would grab the aluminum plate properly, and screwed everything down. The driver's side bracket is held in place with a stainless button head screw, washer and nut. Everything is very tightly held down, the battery posts are at the same height as stock and it all cost about $1.50 in extra stainless steel hardware. :edit - fixed links:

This isn't going to happen, sorry, so I've attached the CAD files in a neutral format that any CAM system should be able to read, units ar in mm. You can just take these to a machine shop and they'll be able to make them for you. One's the bushing that's used at the ends of the shifter. The other is the washer that's used between the shaft and the aluminum housing. You'd need 2 of each. Although they are the models that I used, so they are accurate to the best of my knowledge, you use these at your own risk, I assume no responsability for anyone using these models to make parts. http://putstuff.putfile.com/46172/5467894 http://putstuff.putfile.com/46173/856398 If you can't find a local machine shop, there's a few online to try.

I talked to him today. I'll get back to this thread when we work out what the price would be. The more people who buy at a time, the cheaper it will be as set up time is a big chunk of the cost and only needs to be done once for each run of parts. How many folks would be interested?

In the past I've noticed big traction improvements when installing limited slip differentials in my cars. Even on the street, they seem to show improvements. But I've only had experience with disk-type diffs. Has anyone installed a TORSEN LSD in their Boxster? If so, how much was the install? Was it worth the price?

How many miles? You're emissions control components may still be under warranty.

It sounds like there's some mild interest. Let me talk to my machinist and see what it would cost to get some teflon parts made.

The grooves in the machined plastic in the ebay part are indicative of a either a very poor machine or a ver poor machinist or both. A 0.5 mm difference between just 2 parts is a really bad sign. A variation of a machined part like this should be +/- 0.1 mm at the most. I'm away from home right now, but when I get back next week I'll let you know the dimension that I used. I based it on the diameter of the copper post and the dimension for a slip fit based on the Machinist's Handbook. The fit between the bushing and the aluminum housing is a bit more of a tight fit as I dimensioned it. I neglected any expansion from temperature increase when I spec'd the dimensions. I decided that it's probably pretty close the the temperature of the cabin so expansion wouldn't be an issue.

I must be a closet dyslexic, sorry. The Teflon part is the white one, the nylon is yellow.

I didn't actually have to buy mine, but you should be able to find a local machine shop that can source the material for you. If anybody needs a 3d model for machining, send me a PM. No extras, sorry.

The car's been in storage since I installed it (there's about 2 feet of snow on the ground and I haven't seen the tarmac of my cul-du-sac in a month) but the bushings did feel pretty smooth before I hooked up the links. Really low friction. On a separate note, marking the shift link position before installation made no difference for me. I had to readjust anyway after the new shifter was in.

Im pretty sure its an S (6spd, 911 brakes and etc). Built date was Oct 99 but is a 2000 model in Porsche calender year. Convention is to refer to the car by it's model year, as Porsche did when they built it and sold it.

Toolpants, do you have the Porsche unit? I'd be interested to know if the lever arm length is the same between it and the ebay knock off. I assume the B&M and Porsche parts are identical save for the anodizing color? As I stated in my review of the ebay part, everything looks to be of nice quality but the plastic bushings, which are of an inferior nylon as compared to a delrin or teflon.

Great price on the install. I tried 6 shops in the Denver area and all were around $900-1100. I believe the M030 uses the Bilstein HD's.

I don't know for sure, but it's a good bet that the damping rates are different between the 996 and 986 considering the differences in weight and weight distribution. I'm sure spring rates are different.

That did the trick, thanks.

Wow! :o From http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7073 I was assuming installation would be in the 3-4 hour range! Are there any parts I could do myself, or is the whole process so involved that it's not worth doing part myself and the rest at a good suspension shop? I guess I need to call around and get some estimates on installation before I order any parts The rear suspension is fairly involved and is about 70% of the cost.