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jmatta

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Everything posted by jmatta

  1. jmatta
    The 911 community has NOTHING but horror stories from those folks..."supposedly" rebuilt, utilizing used parts, poor craftsmanship, problems galore, etc, etc. Knowing the complexities of the M96, there is no way I would trust those clowns with any motor. Go to the Pelican boards and search their name...you'll have enough to read to last you until next year. You must not read the 986 forum either, as there are horror stories about buying patched up engines off eBay, as well. If you can't trace the engines history, don't waste your money; do it right and call Jake at Flat 6 Innovations.
  2. jmatta
    How old are your tires and when was the last time they were balanced and the car aligned? You tires may be experiencing "cupping" which could account for the noises.
  3. jmatta
    Go hang out with the ricers and ask where they get the wings for their Civics! :D
  4. jmatta
    At this point, I think I'd find a qualified mechanic to look at my car, rather than risk even more damage. As mentioned earlier, seek Pedro at Pedro's Garage...don't think he's too far from you and certainly knows Boxsters.
  5. jmatta
    My 3.2 S is going on eight years old and shows 17k miles. To date, I have installed the LN billet oil filter adapter/magnetic drain plug and the 160 degree t-stat with new OEM coolant. My car is not a daily driver, so when it is driven, it is driven for a long enough period to get it good and hot and use the upper ranges of the revs. I've always used 5W or 10W40 good quality synthetic (not M1) and change at least yearly, which is less than 3000 miles. My car does not need a clutch, but I am still considering updating to the LNE IMS bearing, so my engine doesn't become a boat anchor at some point in time. I feel it is just prudent to do so, as a 3.6 rebuild is not in the cards at the moment with two kids in college.
  6. jmatta
    As stated, the inner tread of the tire will wear faster than the outer tread, due to negative camber of the rear wheels...the more negative camber, the more severe, the greater the wear. I run 2.5 degrees negative on the rear of my car, which is lower than stock. It is not a daily driver, so I'm not concerned over wear...the rubber will get hard before they wear out. Mechanical diff is not necessary on these cars, as they don't have enough torque to really take advantage of the limited slip.
  7. jmatta
    I have been running the LN 160 stat for the last year without issue. My car needed a coolant change anyway, so it was one those "while you're in there" things to do. I do not drive the car in the winter, but noticed no ill effects throughout the summer and enjoyed lower temps which equates to lower oil temps; the big benefit here to engine longevity (along with 10W40 quality synthetic). I now have 17k miles on the car for reference.
  8. jmatta
    Sounds like the car has had a hard life...pass.
  9. jmatta
    I use a pressure bleeder, but the speed bleeders do a nice job, as long as you're careful not to damage the master cylinder seals. Real pain the the *** to bleed the clutch, isn't it? My arm just doesn't bend that many different ways.
  10. jmatta
    I don't anyone has had any success fitting 11s on the rear of a Boxster; they are just too wide. You didn't mention the offset, but you would need around 45 to 48 mm...this will clear the inner strut but push the outer wheel into the fender lip (unless your car is safari style). 285s on 10s is close to the limit on a car with reasonable alignment (read camber).
  11. jmatta
    Try a small dab of Blue Magic with 3M Hand Glaze...cleans plastic without scratching.
  12. jmatta
    Didn't someone accidently start his car on fire with a broken dip stick tube? Not sure if I read it on this forum or another. Not sure I'd risk that failure for a mere $30 part.
  13. jmatta
    Here's a couple of pics to help visualize...neither are my car, as I've never had the panel off.
  14. jmatta
    "Im running a set of 18x11 on the rear" How did you get 11s to fit the rear? What is your car's ride height? From what I've seen, to clear the inner shock tube, you'd push the outers out far enough to hit the fender lip, unless you did some major massaging.
  15. jmatta
    You are most likely rubbing something as Loren stated. I have 18x10's on the back of my car with an offset of et 47...my clearance to the shock tower is minimal and I needed to tie back the e-brake cables to eliminate rubbing. The wheel size and offset will be stamped inside the wheels...check them before you remount. A small spacer may solve your problem, but may also push the wheel out far enough that it hits the outer fender lip.
  16. jmatta
    Agreed. That is what I said in my previous post.... I think the blue is dark enough that he can get away with the look; it would be over the top on a light color. With regard to the red wheels, I've seen a white Cayman S with red highlights, including the same highlighted wheels...reminiscent of the '73 Carrera RS's. Geez, I post the picture and didn't catch the background action either!
  17. jmatta
    I don't know that I agree with the "don't do it" opinion. My friend has a black Carrera S with 19" lobster forks in black and it looks stunning. I don't have a picture of his car, but it is nearly identical to the one pictured here:
  18. jmatta
    I'd do the obvious and try one from another radio (you must have a friend or club owner that would be willing to help). If that solves the problem, you're off to eBay to purchase a replacement. If not, trouble lies within the radio itself. Have you tried some contact cleaner?
  19. jmatta
    Following up on my prior post, the Oettle modified muffler with the bypass pipes does not drone or resonate, as it is a factory muffler. I also have Fabspeed bypass pipes eliminating the secondary cats and the sound is superb. This mod is very simple to do if you have welding skills or can pay someone to do it for you; cost of materials is negligible.
  20. jmatta
    Perhaps a wet sand, followed by clear could solve the problem. Let us know what you find out.
  21. jmatta
    You'll likely find the problem is within the shifter bushings themselves; changing to a new shifter should remedy the situation. I have a B&M in my car and love it. Did you purchase a name brand shifter or a knock-off...I understand the knock-offs are pretty good, but you must reverse the shift handle itself, as it comes backwards (for some reason).
  22. jmatta
    My guess is he didn't need a spacer with an offset of et45...that's right in the ballpark. I have 18x10's on my car with et47...very tight on the inside near the strut; enough so, that I needed to tie back the e-brake cables.
  23. jmatta
    Bill, I think you are one of the lucky ones. I hope my car lasts a long time, since I will have two college tuition bills to pay for the next six or seven years (so much for the Raby 3.6 upgrade for the time being). Boxsters are a blast to drive and this coming from a 911 guy for the last 25 years (my 911 sits in the garage more than driven). Lastly, I think you owe your engine longevity to the Amsoil 5W40 you've nurtured it with! :D
  24. jmatta
    Nowhere near enough negative camber for a track event, first off (extreme wear on outer edge). You probably flat spotted the tire, as well, which would translate to thumping.
  25. jmatta
    Maybe Porsche engine quality will improve under VW? My comment was in jest...I'll leave it up to Jake and Charles to provide quality parts for my engine.
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