Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

paulv

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    147
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by paulv

  1. Charles, I've also heard the 50% rule for TBN also (mainly articles from Noria publications). When did you stop using Blackstone? I've heard that they've improved on their testing. Also, I read your "What oil should I use...." article (on the LN site) a while back and really enjoyed it -- also passed it on to a couple of my Porsche friends. Regards, paul....
  2. Please disregard what I mentioned earlier -- I think my wife dropped a stupid pill in my cereal this morning -- my whold day at work has been a disaster also. Sorry for the bogus info..... Regards, paul...
  3. Is this the first UOA you've done? The idea behind UOAs is to trend the data over time to see any upward changes of the wear metals which would indicate that a problem could possibly happen in the near future -- maybe the Fe level you're getting is normal -- I don't know and still on the learning curve with my Boxster and it's still being broken in. The "lot of life left in the oil" is a relative statement as the life of the oil is based on many other things (viscosity changes, fuel dilution, TBN, TAN, etc). The TBN you have only tells you that there is still a significant amount of additive (to reduce acids, etc) remaining in the oil. You should post your UOA on BITOG so all the anti-Mobil 1 people there can heckle you -- actually, you may get some good responses. Regards, paul....
  4. Good point, but I tend to be very cautious around newer cars with "advanced" electronics, especially with things that are still running after the key is off. Regards, paul...
  5. Bob, The Battery Tender is good and inexpensive but can only keep your battery charged (for storage). CTEK makes the Porsche units and you can check out their models as these will maintain as well as fully charge batteries. Here's info: CTEK 3300 is $70, cig light adapter is $10 (http://www.ctek.com) Battery Tender (#021-0123) is $30, cig light adapter is about $10 (http://www.batterystuff.com) Regards, paul....
  6. Too many customers giving them crap about the 20k change interval? Do the 2008 models have direct fuel injection? I've heard that people with other [non-Porsche] cars have noticed fuel diluted oil problems with this technology (at the high performance end). Regards, paul... Paul, no the 987 dose not have direct fuel injection yet in the 2008 MY. OK, thanks. I don't have any other ideas of why the OCI has been reduced to 12000 miles, but I like that better than 20000 miles!!!! Regards, paul...
  7. Too many customers giving them crap about the 20k change interval? Do the 2008 models have direct fuel injection? I've heard that people with other [non-Porsche] cars have noticed fuel diluted oil problems with this technology (at the high performance end). Regards, paul...
  8. To my "untrained" eye, the only difference so far is the Mahle is a little more expensive (~ $2.50). Regards, paul....
  9. Bob, Congrats on the new Boxster. IMO, I would go with the 7500 mile oil change intervals that the Tech Q&A recommends on the PCA website. I've decided to follow that (as mentioned above). As far as dealer recommendations, some dealers say to go with the 20000 mile changes as the factory recommends, and my dealer said to change it at 10000 miles. My bottomline was decided because I bought the car and didn't lease it. If I leased it, 20000 miles oil changes at the dealer would be it. Regards, paul...
  10. Popolou/RFM, Thanks for posting this info. I started experiencing the same issue when turning lock-to-lock recently (it's starting to get cold in Boston!) and was wondering about it. I don't have to worry now. Regards, paul...
  11. Agreed, so now I am just searching for a filter and the oil, off to WalMart at lunch to see what they have, here in Canada they also have a store, Canadian Tire, they carry Mobil 1 as well, but I have yet to see it in the gallon jug, only quart (liter) sizes. The stealer probably wants an arm and a leg for the filter! Every time I buy a part from them I check the price list before I go and they consistantly charge more then the MSRP for parts, sometimes a lot more! I wouldn't be surprised to find that it is over $30... Westcoaster, Since you're a contributing member here, you can look at the TSB for the Approved Oil List (early this year), so you're not restricted to just Mobil 1 0W-40. What you'll see is that there are many oils (mostly 5W-40) available. I wouldn't run an xW-30 in a Porsche, and heavier oils could cause problems with the VarioCam system. You can buy your OEM filters from Sunset which is on this site -- I already bought a bunch of stuff from them and I'm happy with their prices/service. I also agree with White987S' comments. The Blackstone site has a link to some guys who did a Synthetic Oil Study (Mobil 1 and Amsoil) and they showed how most of the wear is in the first 2-3000 miles after the oil has been changed. In addition, one of the oil companies (forgot which one) came out with a study supporting the same conclusions. Regards, paul....
  12. In another post, I mentioned that I've generated a spreadsheet (with graphs) to trend this stuff. If you want a copy, let me know. Regards, paul...
  13. RFM, Good points -- thanks for providing this info. When I did my car, I waited 30 mins (oil was hot from a test drive) and at that time, the oil was dripping out at a rate of 1 drip/sec before I re-installed the drain plug. I've always used the one drip/sec rule on all cars. Regards, paul...
  14. Check out my post on the 987 threads about when I recently changed my oil on the Boxster. Regards, paul... For what exactly? Pop Pop, Sorry for not being specific -- When I recently changed my oil, I put in 7.75L and only got 1 bar to light up. I eventually went with Loren's recommendation and added another 0.75L in 100mL steps after 8L until I got the 3rd bar lit and stayed under or on 8.5L. Regards, paul...
  15. Check out my post on the 987 threads about when I recently changed my oil on the Boxster. Regards, paul...
  16. I put together an Excel spreadsheet to trend my used oil analyses from Blackstone labs. If you want a copy, PM me with your email. Regards, paul...
  17. Considering that the kinematic viscosity was out of spec at only 7500 miles, I wouldn't wait 2 years or 30000km to change the oil!!! Once a year or 10000 miles is a good oil change interval -- Mercedes recommends this for all their AMG motors and 13000 miles for all other models, and when I had an 03 E320 prior to my Box, I changed the oil when the inboard computer said so (approx 15000 miles) and the TBN value was at 2.6. I don't know for a fact, but I would speculate that the TBN would fall dangerously below 2.0 when hitting 20000 miles. If you're leasing your car, I would stay with the factory recommendation, but if you own the car and want to keep it for a while, go with 7500 mile but not more than 10000 mile intervals -- my opinion. BTW, the PCA tech list on their website recommends 7500 mile changes. Sorry I didn't express everything in metric units. Regards, paul....
  18. I believe that it's a good idea to change the factory fill early (earlier than what the manufacturer recommends for a first oil change), but I wouldn't do at 1300 like you did. This is because I've seen two independent articles disputing the 3000 mile oil change as the oil needs to be "broken in" and most wear occurs between 1000-2000 miles after the oil change. I would go with an initial change somewhere between 3000-5000 miles -- mind you, this isn't based on any scientific evidence, only my opinion. I did mine at 7500 miles because I've decided that this will be my change interval. My reasoning is that I'm driving in commuter traffic on a highway with my work about 25 miles away, so I have concerns about moisture in the oil not evaporating. Considering oils (i.e., Motul 8100 series, RedLine, etc) that have a lot of esters in them tend to hold water more than mineral/PAO based oils. Regards, paul...
  19. OK, I've been harassed enough (in a good way, though). I've added more oil to get to the third bar. I added twice in 100mL amounts, so 200mL got me there. I'll watch it for a few days. Since this is my first Porsche, I'll probably be asking more anal questions until I learn the car. Looks like the prize goes to Loren for recommending 8.5L. If I lived closer, I would have attended Loren's weekend get together and gained some knowledge. Thanks again to everyone who chimed in to help. Regards, paul....
  20. I know, I know..... I just didn't want to buy any more oil for a while (I bought 24L for 3 oil changes) and I would have to go and buy 3 more L to keep my inventory up to date. I'm basically a cheap S.O.B!!! I agree, I always check my oil every morning inside my garage (level ground). Obviously, this oil level thing is bothering me and I have to figure out what to do about it. I just may crack open another L of oil. Since I will be doing 7500 OCI's (every 6 months), the remainder of the oil should be OK for next time providing I keep the cap on tight and keep storing the oil in my dry basement and not in the garage. Regards, paul....
  21. Richard, Good point. When I filled out the sample form for Blackstone, I indicated M1 0W-40 because I assumed that it was the factory fill. From the narrative on the top of the analysis, Blackstone said that factory fills are in a 30 weight grade range, so this is why the KV100 value wasn't in the SAE J300 required 12.5 - 16.3 cSt range. If this isn't true, and Blackstone and I are both wrong, then the oil sheared down like crazy. Regards, paul...
  22. Start thinking of trading the car for something else! But seriously, I would need to identify why those trends are happening, what parts are affected, consider repair approaches. Regards, paul....
  23. Thanks for the replies everyone -- I going to check the level after I've driven the car (hot oil) for curiosity. As Loren pointed out, the service manual says the same as the owner's manual - 7.75 L. I'm running Motul 8100 Xcess and it cost me about $9/L so I'm not going to open another L just to add a little oil and have a good L of oil hanging around for half a year. Before anyone asks the question, here's the answer: I've elected to use Motul 8100 because some other people (non-Porsche) have used it with good results -- I hope I get good results also. Although different engines treat the same oil differently, I still wanted to give it a try. I'm sure most of you guys share my dislike of electronic indicators for oil levels, and miss the good ol' days of dipsticks!! Regards, paul...
  24. Yes I will and I'll develop a spreadsheet to graphically trend the data. I've done this before for other cars I've owned. Boggtown: the basic analysis from Blackstone is $22.50 -- I usually send it priority mail which is another ~ $4. When you take a sample, collect it when the oil is about half way draining. Regards, paul....
  25. here's my used oil analysis for those of you who enjoy this sort of stuff. Regards, paul...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.