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vza

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Everything posted by vza

  1. Well I cleared it a bunch of times and it always returned. I'll run it for a bit see what happens now after the swap. . . And....the solenoids not activating is a totally different issue? Or is it related?
  2. Cylinders 4 and 6. I swapped the coils and plugs with 1 and 3 and ran the car for a bit with no cels. So not sure what that means.
  3. Ok, Getting back to the issue here. (I took a break) So I have 2 issues the 1.misfires and 2. the solenoids not turning on? I thought the solenoids not engaging would cause the fault code but I suppose the solenoids aren't activated until a certain RPM is reached. V
  4. Same results with new relay. I then checked voltage on each wire of bank 2 solenoid. 14.9 red/grn with little or no fluctuating when revved. 14.6 on brn/gry with lower voltage when revved...maybe down to 10v So kinda lost here. I guess I could swap plugs/coils see if it follows, doubtful cause they were replaced. Then check for low resistance in the wires from solenoid connector to pins for DME. Was looking at wire diagrams but couldn't find pin # on any DME connectors for red/grn and brn/gry wires.
  5. Ok, Ill report back after I try the new relay. Thanks again. V
  6. Right so one part of the circuit is shared...so it still might be the relay....no?
  7. Crap...had my hopes up. Maybe theres 2 circuits downstream from the relay...spitballin here!! I'll try the relay anyway. See what happens. Maybe the relays totally shot, I did have a hard time starting at one point. Car cranked but wouldnt start. Then it did after a number of attempts. Briefly looked at wiring diagram. Both Red/Blu are shared with both solenoids maybe thats the issue with the relay?
  8. I ordered 2 Bosch relays for 17.00(one spare) it was easier than checking all the voltages, especially on bank 1. Figured I'll give it a try. Would a bad relay cause the solenoid in both banks not to activate? Thanks V
  9. Ok maybe that's the wrong one in the trunk I found, I'll look under dash and get back. Thanks again
  10. Ok, thanks John great help. Where is this relay bay in the footwell near the fuse box. Don't recall anything in the engine bay.
  11. Hobbyist mechanic so bear with me. ...1st off not too sure how to check voltage on each pin. Do I ground multi meter to engine and just use the pos lead on multimeter to check voltage from those 2 pins?(one at a time) I just had the multimeter connected to the 2 pins on the connector is that incorrect ? I started investigating DME relay ...is that the same as the ECM relay? There's 2 relays near L tail light in the trunk. One green w 5 pins and one black w 4 pins. Is the 5 pin one the ECM relay? Other may be fuel pump relay. Also remember both solenoids don't activate with the Durametric. I just checked bank 2 solenoid w the 9v battery and it activated as you know. Didn't try bank 1 solenoid cause it's not as easily accessed. Would a failing ECM relay cause both not to activate, if so maybe that's the prob. I noticed it's also intermittent, CEL lights blinks sometimes then goes to solid CEL and then it just goes off sometimes.
  12. .25 volts at idle to 5v when engine is reved over 3500rpm. Can't identify correct pin for checking resistance. Looks like red/grn and gry/brown wires at solenoid connector.
  13. New batt and alt. So 12v at solenoid connector?
  14. I only connected a light to the solenoid harness. Was dim at idle then grew brighter w increased RPM's. Ok..so check for resistance between solenoid connecter to appropriate pin going into DME. Only 2 pins. Then back probe solenoid connector with engine running to see voltage. What voltage should I see.?
  15. Ok, activated bank 2 solenoid with 9v battery and there definitely was change in the engine note(almost stalling). Opened my DME and no evidence of burnt components.Any thoughts to do next. Voltages at the connector? V
  16. Oh boy. Ok I'll do some more troubleshooting. The car I believe sat around for a long time before I purchased. I'll check as follows: Check coil pack connectors. Activate solenoids and check realtime cam angle w Durametric. Try to activate w 9v battery. Check oil strainer (maybe it's clogged...forgot to check it when I had it out) Any info on what the voltages should be at different RPM's? Maybe I can check the voltages as well. As fore mentioned the bulb had a dim glow at idle then grew brighter as I increased RPM's. Thanks for your input John greatly appreciated. V
  17. Ok, I would definitely hear the engine note change right? OR I would see the cam angle change when activated...(if it's possible to view cam angle and activate the solenoid together with the Durametric.) Never tried that. How likely that both are bad. Don't hear a change on either banks when activated. There are 2 solenoids on each bank, the others located between 2 coil packs are the valve lift solenoids, correct. V
  18. Reread JFP's post. 'if the unit does not assume an active position when energized in the engine, it has a problem.' I'm assuming any bench test w a 9v battery wouldn't matter the solenoid can still be malfunctioning. Should I replace the solenoid? Thanks V
  19. Did the light test. Very dim light at idle. Not sure if there's supposed to be current at idle, when rpms were increased the bulb grew brighter I guess voltage was increased along w RPM's. I removed the solenoid and cleaned and tested it w 9v battery. Seemed to move freely and clicked. Not sure how much the plunger supposed to move. It didn't protrude from the end of the solenoid. Reinstalled with same misfire on 4 and 6. Going to reseat 4 and 6 wires to coil pack see if that does anything. Any ideas? V
  20. Right... so then the solenoids are bad. Just looking for a definitive way for testing them. If there's energy in the circuit from the light test and when the solenoids are activated by the Durametric using the 'Camshaft Adjustment' command and the solenoids don't make a change in the engine the solenoids are bad. Only good thing is you dont need to remove the covers and cams to replace them. Is there a way to bench test the solenoids? V
  21. If the light lights up it means I have power in the circuit therefore the solenoids are bad cause there's no engine note change when activated with the durametric. (of course when everything is plugged in after the light test) Correct? V PS By gonzo I meant bad. Wasn't a typo.
  22. OK, so if I get a light it would mean my solenoids are gonzo. Correct? V
  23. Does the 'Cam adjustment' on Durametric activate the solenoids? V
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