Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

vza

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    462

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Everything posted by vza

  1. vza
    Thanks, Well the new sensor didn't change anything, threw a CEL after 145 miles. So guess it wasn't the sensor. I probed around w my new probe/tracer. Findings with engine running: 14v R/Bl right connector 12v R/Gy center " Gnd Brn/Pink left " Traced positive for all 3 wires from Connector to DME in the trunk(got a trace tone) Positive continuity for all EXCEPT the R/Blu right wire. No continuity but there was a tone when traced. Don't get it. Any thoughts? Put everything back together and CEL disappeared. Thanks V
  2. vza
    Well I decided to spend 22 bucks 1st and just replace the sensor. The old sensor I removed has a different bosch #. I removed bosch 0 232 103 057(Mercedes apparently)and installed #0 232 103 092. Ran at idle for few mins CEL remained on. Should I clear the code see if it comes back or will it clear itself. Thanks V
  3. vza
    Checked voltage at the connector. 2 outside pins are ground with the middle at 12v with ignition on. Car running outside pin went to 14.2v, 12v in the middle and ground on the last outside pin. So one ground goes over to 14v from the DME I guess. I separated the 1st 6" of the 3 wires and twisted them around and the results stayed strong. I'll put a tone each and trace it. From what can tell by looking at the diagram the wires go to a control box left of the steering column in the footwell. Any idea where the loom or harness runs? Thanks V
  4. vza
    Well I went for a drive and the CEL was gone when I started the car. Does that mean it's intermittent and most likely a wire issue?
  5. vza
    Emm...I'll try find resources online about checking voltage to the connector. See what I come up with. The angle changes when watching cam angle when I accelerate w my Durametric but I was never able to activate my solenoids with my durametric. This was discussed on an earlier thread. Thanks V
  6. vza
    Ugh...where do I start. Can you point to any sources.
  7. vza
    Yes...typo..so that would mean a wiring issue? So what is the course of action.
  8. vza
    Hi All,08 Boxster.Getting a P00010 CEL code. Camshaft Sensor bank1. Is replacing the sensor usually the solution? If I clear it, it comes back in a hundred or so miles. Car runs fine but I do think it lacks a bit pick up. I'll check the wires and connector. Is there a way to test the sensor to see if its bad.. Is it possible it's the variocam solenoid? Thanks V
  9. vza
    Good News !! Maybe tracking it tomorrow!! Thanks V
  10. vza
    Hey JFP, I looked at the actual angle cam 1 and 2 on my Durametric. The values did change in both banks when I revved the engine 2500rpms or so. They were negative values... dunno what that means. See video thanks V 20241028_215004.mp4
  11. vza
    Oh ok sounds easy enough. "Actual angle for cam shaft." I see it on the Pic you posted. So if the angle changes my variocam is functioning. Should I see change 24 degrees or am I just looking for a curve when revving. Thanks big help as always.
  12. vza
    Hmm..explain simple terms. Select Cam1/cam2 deviation. Rev engine and I should see a intake increase 24 degrees over what the exhaust cam is. Correct...sort of made that up. The cams don't adjust until a certain RPM 2000 ish?
  13. vza
    Okay Do I select.. cam pos 1 and 2 on the durametric? What is the spec? Is there a spec for % cam angle at a certain rpm? Thanks.
  14. vza
    How about this. Is there another way to look at the cam angle change(think thats what its called) like you said when increasing RPMs rather than just activating the solenoids.
  15. vza
    Joke ...I know no sealer..nada...niente... Just to touch on the variocam. My previous DME was deemed faulty (I had misfires and was checking the Solenoids) and was replaced by Doctor ECU. Since the new DME I have no CEL's but checked the variocam sys by trying to activate my cam adj with my Durametric and they still won't activate....they did however activate w/ a 9v battery. Today I was talking with a local Indy and he said the Durametric has always been glitchy (definitely agree) and if I'm not currently getting any CELS and the car isn't running badly I'm over thinking it and I don't have any issues. John you said the same here: Would you agree? So it would be safe to assume I'm good. Correct??
  16. vza
    Yeah you're right just anxious to run it but it dosent make sense. I'll see what my options are. Thanks John BTW I would never ask what sealer to use on cam caps. Regards V
  17. vza
    Off topic..Any harm in tracking the car with my variocam solenoids not activating. Not totally sure bout that....no CEL's I couldnt hear engine note change when trying to activate w Durametric. ...only when I jumped them w a 9v battery. Thanks V
  18. vza
    Okay well the good news is I think I found my source then because all four were missing. I found 4 new plugs I ordered so it turns out I never installed them. I'm also reading that aftermarket AOS can cause an issue and that's what I used I think I used a Uro part. Considering i never installed the plugs i probably ok. Thanks V
  19. vza
    Ok what does that mean... When I first got the car I pulled the trans did the FW,RMS and IMS seal. Then ...checked the timing. I'm sure I put the plugs back in but I cant be 100% sure. Would that be the sorce of the leak I've read you can loose a lot of oil from here. I replaced 2 qts of oil and revved the engine while looking at the spinning cam ends but they were dry... no oil.
  20. vza
    Did so. Not finding anything. Noticed the green rubber cam covers are missing. All 4. Is that a possibility?
  21. vza
    Well I thought I was done w/ my project car. Issue 1: In route to pre track tech inspection to track I was watching my temp guage and it was at 12 o'clock then pinned all the way right for 20 seconds...went back to 12 pos. Too and fro back and forth. I assume i have a some air pockets in my cooling sys that I recently changed( yes with venturi tool). So I'll try and get air pockets out by driving and adding coolant. Or emptying coolant and refilling w coolant. ISSUE 2: Upon arriving at pre track inspection the whole underside was splattered with oil. AOS was previously replaced.... looked clean. Oil dripping off L axle and R side coolant hoses near front of engine. From the top it looked like there was more oil on the R side but difficult to find the source of the leak. Any suggestions as to where to start. Or most likely source of leak. Thanks V
  22. vza
    Problem solved. I backed off a little more on the lock nut for the steering column and the brake pedal snapped right back. No dragging brakes.
  23. vza
    Well not really. They go on fine. I found that my brake ped is not fully retracting so the brakes are dragging. Stays depressed bout an inch keeps the brake lights on as well. Car dosent roll on it own unless i put my foot under the ped and pull up. This is a project car and did new rotors/pads a year ago, they have no miles on them. BUT....my steering wheel adjust lock mechanism broke...the one that allows steering to adjust up/ down in/out. So i had the steering column out and after that repair is when i noticed the brakes are hanging. Im thinking i overtightened the bolt for the column that goes thru the brake and clurch ped. Maybe the overtightened bolt is restricting physical movement if the brake ped. Have to look at the book to see if the column bolt goes thru the brake pedal. UPDATE: I loosened the nut for the steering column less than a 1/4 turn and it imoroved the pedal return. I think i have to mess with it a bit. Feel free to chime in .B
  24. vza
    Hi All, I temporarily put my 99 boxster wheels/tires on my 08 Boxster. I moved the car 50 ft to wash it and noticed it seemed like the emergency brake was on. Car wouldnt roll freely ...sort of pushed it some and smelled my clutch(brand new) a bit. Then...it dawned on me...I changed the wheels out. So...I hope I didnt burn the clutch up and score the crap out of my rotors(brandy new as well). In all I moved it about 50 ft. Ugh..
  25. vza
    Hi All,Just another issue with my 08 Boxster. Tried to activate variocam solenoids w/ durametric but they dont activate. Been thru most checks and troubleshooting you can see on another thread. So...I plan on tracking the car. Any harm in doing so if my solenoids are not activating the variocams? Thanks V
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.