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vza

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Everything posted by vza

  1. vza
    Ok well here's what I found: Wire. Continuity. Resis. Vol.Drop Red/Blu. No. Open. 7.4v Red/Gry Yes. .3k. None Brwn/Pink. Yes. .2k. None Volts at DME and Sen.Plug Ignition ON DME. PLUG Red/Blu. 5v. 12.6v Red/Gry. 12.8. 12.2v Brwn/Pink. .9mv. 1.2mv I guess the oddest is the red/blu with no continuity but voltage when energized. Maybe it goes to a relay? Let me know what everyone thinks. Bad harness or the DME goes back to Specialized ECU. Thanks V Did some reading seems to me red/blu has a short to voltage cause that wire supposed to stay at 5v. So maybe try replacing the red/Blu wire from DME to plug. Correct?
  2. vza
    Ok, I'll recheck and post findings.
  3. vza
    Well wait a minute. If I measure what I'm getting out of the back of the connector at the DME(back test it) and it matches what I'm getting at the sensor connector then I know it's not the harness....correct? V
  4. vza
    Ok...do you know the part number to replace the pins in the plugs on dme side and sensor side? Would rather just make a 3pin harness and pull the pins and run the harness rather than clip wires. Thanks v
  5. vza
    Hi,Gettig back to my p00010 CEL ...can I just jump the wires from DME to the sensor (3 wires) to rule out the harness. Got strange results when testing continuity and using a tracer. One wire had no continuity but the same wire pinged when using an electronic wire trace. Explained in previous post. Thanks V
  6. vza
    Thanks, Well the new sensor didn't change anything, threw a CEL after 145 miles. So guess it wasn't the sensor. I probed around w my new probe/tracer. Findings with engine running: 14v R/Bl right connector 12v R/Gy center " Gnd Brn/Pink left " Traced positive for all 3 wires from Connector to DME in the trunk(got a trace tone) Positive continuity for all EXCEPT the R/Blu right wire. No continuity but there was a tone when traced. Don't get it. Any thoughts? Put everything back together and CEL disappeared. Thanks V
  7. vza
    Well I decided to spend 22 bucks 1st and just replace the sensor. The old sensor I removed has a different bosch #. I removed bosch 0 232 103 057(Mercedes apparently)and installed #0 232 103 092. Ran at idle for few mins CEL remained on. Should I clear the code see if it comes back or will it clear itself. Thanks V
  8. vza
    Checked voltage at the connector. 2 outside pins are ground with the middle at 12v with ignition on. Car running outside pin went to 14.2v, 12v in the middle and ground on the last outside pin. So one ground goes over to 14v from the DME I guess. I separated the 1st 6" of the 3 wires and twisted them around and the results stayed strong. I'll put a tone each and trace it. From what can tell by looking at the diagram the wires go to a control box left of the steering column in the footwell. Any idea where the loom or harness runs? Thanks V
  9. vza
    Well I went for a drive and the CEL was gone when I started the car. Does that mean it's intermittent and most likely a wire issue?
  10. vza
    Emm...I'll try find resources online about checking voltage to the connector. See what I come up with. The angle changes when watching cam angle when I accelerate w my Durametric but I was never able to activate my solenoids with my durametric. This was discussed on an earlier thread. Thanks V
  11. vza
    Ugh...where do I start. Can you point to any sources.
  12. vza
    Yes...typo..so that would mean a wiring issue? So what is the course of action.
  13. vza
    Hi All,08 Boxster.Getting a P00010 CEL code. Camshaft Sensor bank1. Is replacing the sensor usually the solution? If I clear it, it comes back in a hundred or so miles. Car runs fine but I do think it lacks a bit pick up. I'll check the wires and connector. Is there a way to test the sensor to see if its bad.. Is it possible it's the variocam solenoid? Thanks V
  14. vza
    Good News !! Maybe tracking it tomorrow!! Thanks V
  15. vza
    Hey JFP, I looked at the actual angle cam 1 and 2 on my Durametric. The values did change in both banks when I revved the engine 2500rpms or so. They were negative values... dunno what that means. See video thanks V 20241028_215004.mp4
  16. vza
    Oh ok sounds easy enough. "Actual angle for cam shaft." I see it on the Pic you posted. So if the angle changes my variocam is functioning. Should I see change 24 degrees or am I just looking for a curve when revving. Thanks big help as always.
  17. vza
    Hmm..explain simple terms. Select Cam1/cam2 deviation. Rev engine and I should see a intake increase 24 degrees over what the exhaust cam is. Correct...sort of made that up. The cams don't adjust until a certain RPM 2000 ish?
  18. vza
    Okay Do I select.. cam pos 1 and 2 on the durametric? What is the spec? Is there a spec for % cam angle at a certain rpm? Thanks.
  19. vza
    How about this. Is there another way to look at the cam angle change(think thats what its called) like you said when increasing RPMs rather than just activating the solenoids.
  20. vza
    Joke ...I know no sealer..nada...niente... Just to touch on the variocam. My previous DME was deemed faulty (I had misfires and was checking the Solenoids) and was replaced by Doctor ECU. Since the new DME I have no CEL's but checked the variocam sys by trying to activate my cam adj with my Durametric and they still won't activate....they did however activate w/ a 9v battery. Today I was talking with a local Indy and he said the Durametric has always been glitchy (definitely agree) and if I'm not currently getting any CELS and the car isn't running badly I'm over thinking it and I don't have any issues. John you said the same here: Would you agree? So it would be safe to assume I'm good. Correct??
  21. vza
    Yeah you're right just anxious to run it but it dosent make sense. I'll see what my options are. Thanks John BTW I would never ask what sealer to use on cam caps. Regards V
  22. vza
    Off topic..Any harm in tracking the car with my variocam solenoids not activating. Not totally sure bout that....no CEL's I couldnt hear engine note change when trying to activate w Durametric. ...only when I jumped them w a 9v battery. Thanks V
  23. vza
    Okay well the good news is I think I found my source then because all four were missing. I found 4 new plugs I ordered so it turns out I never installed them. I'm also reading that aftermarket AOS can cause an issue and that's what I used I think I used a Uro part. Considering i never installed the plugs i probably ok. Thanks V
  24. vza
    Ok what does that mean... When I first got the car I pulled the trans did the FW,RMS and IMS seal. Then ...checked the timing. I'm sure I put the plugs back in but I cant be 100% sure. Would that be the sorce of the leak I've read you can loose a lot of oil from here. I replaced 2 qts of oil and revved the engine while looking at the spinning cam ends but they were dry... no oil.
  25. vza
    Did so. Not finding anything. Noticed the green rubber cam covers are missing. All 4. Is that a possibility?
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