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vza

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Everything posted by vza

  1. Well.....unfortunately they barely get warm. Oh well.....buttons look nice!!! V
  2. Installing after market heated seats cause I"m reupholstering. The heated seat kit include fuses, one for each side. Isn't the 1 fuse at the fuse box sufficient enough rather than having 3 fuses in the circuit. I'm tapping into #6 fuse which is unused(was for heated seats option). Thanks V
  3. I think you have to move the key to the acc position then insert the paper clip. Also, remove the rubber grommet between dash and cylinder first. Pelican has the directions as well. I recall getting the cylinder out was a bit wonky, had to fiddle with it a lot before it released. V
  4. OK Thats what I thought. Just ordered an M490 on ebay. Can anyone confirm the part # 999 652 568 22 for the pins I need to snap into the plug for the rear speakers. Thanks V
  5. So the M490 6 X 40 replaces the M490 4 x 40.....all that needs to be done is remove the keyed molds on the plug and run wires to speakers. Correct?? Thanks V
  6. Thanks for the info....so the M490 amp seems like the one. Probably be my next winter project. Not quite following the brown plug business. So an extra harness(brown plug) is made up to go from the head unit to the amp?? Are these the pre outs that go to the amp for the rear speakers? Or.....maybe not....I'm using this amp for an upgrade to add rear speakers where I have none presently. So in my case I think I just modify the clip to plug into the 6 way amp then add the 4 rear speaker wires to the clip that go to the rear speakers. Correct? V Thanks V
  7. Hi All , Recovering my 99 boxster seats. I started with the seat back bolsters and all went pretty good. I'm having trouble getting the last 6 inches of the vinyl molding or edging into the plastic channel on the back of the seat back where the map pocket is. It keeps popping out....i even tried a little contact cement but not working. Any ideas
  8. Happy Holidays All, Installed short shift kit 99 boxster. A few things.....noticed the metal covers that house the bushings which accept the circlip are notched but didn't see any notches on the shift assembly. They both went in fine although one I had to apply a fair amount of pressure squeezing it in to get the circlip on. The circlip was also very tight and had to be forced on w a screwdriver. The shifter shifts fine but I'm finding laterally from side to side it doesn't spring back to center when in neutral. In hind site I'm thinking maybe I should have removed one of the washers that go between the metal cover and the bushing to free it up a bit. I still might be able to do it through the boot cover. Also, I only installed the set screw and jam nut on one side but there really wasn't any play to pick up anyway. Thanks v
  9. Think I answered my own question.....it goes to the right, to center the shifter....Confirm if you feel like it! V
  10. Hi All, Gona upgrade to a short shifter 99 Boxster. The new shifter has the bend in the shifter leaning towards the driver (L) side. In some pix and videos it looks like it should be leaning to the R side. Which is it.... or is it a matter of preference? Read some threads where you just un bolt it and turn it around. Thanks V
  11. OK so if I get the 6 x 40 amp it will be plug and play for adding the rear speakers. Correct?
  12. I would start with the most simple 1st which would be timing. I think mine at some point was were yours is at after doing some work on it. I thought it ran great and thought for sure my timing was not the issue. Sure enough …..it turned out my timing in one of the banks slipped. V
  13. Fixed ....Window stop bumper was in the lower (incorrect) notch on the rail.
  14. Hi All, 99 Boxster Base. My R window makes a knocking sound when its down and happens when closing the door. Upon inspection the front part of the window is hitting the front top "cable wheel" of the regulator. Is there a piece of foam or rubber missing from the top of the regulator. I can probably cure it by cementing a small piece of rubber to the top mount to avoid glass to metal contact. Thanks V
  15. 99 Boxster Base So after much work and money. New Batt, AOS,MAF,Plugs,Fuel Filter,Air Filter,Gas Cap,Oil Cap o-ring,Cleaned TB, Timing,New VarioCam Solenoid, Repaired DME, I'm getting a CEL with P1123 P1125 codes every 600 miles or so for rich fuel on both banks. Checked as best I could for vacuum leaks, Fuel regulator I think is within spec for vacuum Maybe on the low side. Any thought as to what I do next. Car is running good says I'm getting 26 MPG on the H'way which is hard to believe. Out of ideas!!! V
  16. Well there was some improvement ....all the drop links were shot. I mean some said they had remarkable improvement but I'm not feeling it. At some point everything will probably get changed out. V
  17. Hi All, 99 Boxster Base.I replaced my rear Track Arms today (thats what the dealership said was the source of my clunking noise along with drop links) I was surprised when I noticed the new TRW booted joint on the arm was easily moved around with my fingers, I thought it would be much more tighter than the old. The old joint was just a little easier to move around. Just wondering maybe I didn't need to do it. Any thoughts?? Thanks Vince
  18. Hi All,99 Boxster Base. Need to replace my trailing arms (rear) and all drop links. EPS or TRW thats the question. Any preference? V
  19. Hi, No way this 996 cover is going on my Boxster top unless Im doing something wrong. The 2 holes are for the spikes I assume, they are way wider than the cover. Any thoughts Thanks V
  20. OK....how do I insure I dont get air in it when doing the bleed? Thanks V
  21. Hi All, Just confirming that I CAN replace my brake fluid by using the Motive Pressure Bleeder on my 99 Boxster Base WITH TC (Traction Control), I've heard conflicting info regarding having to open valves in control unit w PTS2 and then some saying if you're bleeding after the control unit its fine. Thanks V
  22. OK ....well here's an update. Upon closer investigation I didn't over torque the lug....I believe it was previously weakened and damaged already. The previous owner had 7mm spacers on the rear wheels and didn't upgrade to extended lug studs so the existing stock stocks were 7mm too short and just about catching the bore in the hubs. I did manage to clean the one bore out with a tap. I then removed the spacers and got good torque at 96 Ft Lbs on all lugs. Did auto cross last week without knowing this info .....ouch!! V
  23. Okay..... I dodged the 1st bullet and didn't have to drill. I removed all the lugs with the exception of the one that was spinning and wedged a small pry bar between the spacer and drum pressed down on the bottom of the wheel with my feet and got my impact on it and zipped it out .....5 minutes. BUT....the 1st 3 treads on the bore are stripped I can't get the bolt started. The remaining 80% or more of the bore is good. Would running a chase through the bore be okay.....dont really want to replace the hub at this point. As long as I can torque it down to spec I imagine I'm good.....V
  24. Its loose already....spinning in the wheel.
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