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Everything posted by vza

  1. If you shifted the grooves counter clockwise to line up where the arrows are in the pic below(stock photo) that would be where my timing is now for Bank 1. Just to clarify.
  2. OK...so good news I guess...you were correct in checking the timing ....it did move again. Cam is rotated too far counterclockwise if that would confirm a negative deviation value. Does the oil need to be drained to pull the scavenge pump and replace the tensioner? (probably so) would be easier to leave oil in, adjust timing,replace tensioner and start it up. Does having 0 degrees deviation insure the cams are timed correctly? The pictures posted show the 'puck' inserted on the exhaust cam, if you look closely you'll see my scribed line and see how much it's off(does this represent 7.5 degrees?) with the seam. The other pic shows the locking tool and how far it's off from the treaded bore where the bolt goes. I assume the tensioner I'm replacing is the one on Bank 1 located underneath the scavenge pump. I don't plan on pulling the cam cover so I won't be able to check the links or dimples on the cams. I'm going to go for just a re-time then lock down the cam and replace the tensioner on Bank 1 side (cause I guess that's why I may be losing the timing....twice now) and see if my deviation gets straightened out. Also, is the tensioner the IMS tensioner Part #: 996-105-180-59. Thanks Again V
  3. Was just doing some Boxster meditation and thought of something while waiting to get the car up on stands again. The timing did already slip once already on bank 1. I do notice a sound that could be chain rattle on start up. Sort of sounds like a diesel engine on start up and immediately goes away. I'm thinking if Bank 1 did slip again maybe the cause is a failing tensioner. Is what i'm describing chain rattle?? Thanks V
  4. I'll give durametric a shout. v
  5. Hi, There wasn't an option for actual cam angle under 'engine" or 'actual values' nothing to monitor misfires either I don't have a drop down menu for DME... am I missing something? is it possible its called something else? v
  6. OK..lot of info...first off how do I plot the cam angle...would be interested in that.. Yes I did use blue Loctite...don't think I turned it over 6 times. I'd be lucky if the timing just slipped that would be an easy fix but I'm doubtful. If my cam is off by 7.5 degrees how does that translate to what lines up with cam cover seams....is it noticeable or microscopic? Thanks again v
  7. OK ...so I'm good (in reference to losing the match on the links) not too sure what 'n' means.(crank rotations?) Ah ...Cam reluctor? Is that the tab that the sensor reads? Well the tool is another story. I had the simpler tool that pelican shows in their dIY couldn't get it to fit in and bolt on either bank called manufacturer and they said they had machining and spec issues with some batches ,sent another ….same thing ,then ordered the tool you pictured and I just couldn't get it in with the engine installed ...too big. So...I scribed a line to the outside of the Puck(from 1st tool) that drops in so I can line it up with the cam cover seam and eyeballed it. I mean I was so meticulous with this step and if there is any error its by a millimeter I was sure I was dead on (worked on bank 2 with 0 deviation) unless of course it slipped . I'll check it and see ...I mean I don't plan on pulling the cam cover off again ...just the scavenge pump(which was very difficult to get back In without backing off on a few cam cover bolts in the area) to re-do timing. Thanks again for the and your help.hopfully get this fixed. v
  8. OK ...well the chain marked links I have something to say about that. When I timed the banks after I had the cams out to replace 1 solenoid and all the pads this is what happened. I recall it happening on both banks. Had the cams on my bench, lined up the dimples with the colored links, got the actuator back in between cams reinstalled cams with colored links still lined up(was very meticulous about this) set timing and torqued up the sprocket nuts...colored links were still good. Rotated the engine few times...colored links moved but the timing still appeared good. TDC, notch on intake and exhaust cam stilled lined up. To be safe I tore it down again....ugh. Repeated the entire procedure but marked sprocket and links with nail polish so I could eyeball it from any angle. Re-installed everything,rotated the engine few times and it happen AGAIN, it all appeared to line up but the colored links moved again. I was able to count the links between the dimples and it was the same amount as between the colored links(I believe it was 6 links don't recall) I posted what happened here or rennlist and got a response that this was normal...so I went with it. Started the car and got a nasty knock in bank 2 (which is what I just described) ran it for a while and revved engine some cause some said the tappets weren't pumped up. Turns out I lost timing on bank 2 (exhaust cam was no longer lined up) I took the scavenge pump off loosened bolts on sprocket nudged it and lined it up, checked the number of links between dimples(colored ones were still off) closed everything up....knock was gone. I could never figure how the colored links could move and still have the same amount of links line up with the dimples. I know this a long post but I really hope that I'm explaining it so you can understand. The colored links moved on Bank 1 as well if I recall...I wound up counting them as well. I didn't use the Porsche chain tensioner tool that supposed to put pre-tension on the chain. Just used the tensioner.Thanks for reading thru all of this. v
  9. Ok...retime bank1.Are the trims supposed to move when the engine is revved...nothing changed.What cam pads are you referring to? The 2 small pads on the actuator? They were done already. Thanks for getting back.v
  10. Hi all, Well got my Durametric on today...Seems that I have -15 degrees deviation on Bank 1.Bank 2 reads 0 deviation. I think my fuel trims look ok (just a guess,didn't find an option for RKAT) somehow they didn't move at all when at 2500 rpm's. I activated both Actuators and heard a engine note change so I believe they're both working.I disabled my injectors one at a time and noticed there was more of a change in engine note with 4-5 and 6,not much change when 1-2 and 3 were disabled. How do I monitor misfires in real time?? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks V
  11. OK Thanks ....getting it tomorrow!
  12. OK...ordered my durametric....coming next week!! From what I can tell I will be able to see a graph and value for Banks 1 and 2 cam deviation. Any other things I should be looking for?? V
  13. No, I did all the work myself. I'm wondering if its the wear pads between cams or the tensioners? v
  14. Dealership.another indie?
  15. OK, Swapped sides with coils and cleared CEL. Got another CEL half hr into the drive. The same misfires on Cylinders 1-2-3. So I guess its not the coils. Part #'s on the all the coils were the same with the exception of THA3 (on 3 of them) and HEB3 (on the other 3) not sure if thats relevant. Codes are as follows: P0300 Misfire damage to TWC Pending Codes: P1313 All Misfires 1-2-3 P0301 Misfire 1 Cat damage P1314 P0302 Misfire 2 " " P1315 P0303 Misfire 3 " " P1319 Misfire emission relevant Any ideas: vacum leak/knock sensor/ flywheel or cam sensor?? Thanks...
  16. Quick question: I assume I should clear the CEL's after doing the coil swap? Thanks V
  17. Yeah pretty much....went to him once....said Bank 1 was compensating for no actuator in Bank 2, advised me to replace the bank 2 actuator and if that didn't work the engine would need a tear down to check for bent valves!! I've been to 2 indies and they both didn't want to deal .....said it would be very expensive going forward but no one really gave me a diagnosis.Wasn't very helpful. V
  18. I'll swap the coils. Maybe its only fatigued coils!! The current reading I have(-19 degree business) was with all the work complete with the exception of the DME fix. v
  19. Yes, I agree Bank 2 didn't activate cause of the failed but now fixed DME. Would he(indie) have them stored or should I confirm he said -19 degrees or you would want to see what it's saying now(a new scan), maybe time for a durametric, I called today to see if they had a refurbished one, they occasionally get one in.
  20. No only the pads or ramps on Bank 1. Solenoid and pads on Bank 2. When I brought it to indie before the DME fix he said the the actuator on 2 was not moving. Said Bank 1 had -19 Degree timing and Bank 2 had 0. Not sure if that helps. V
  21. When doing the work I initially had the timing slip on bank 1 had a nasty tapping sound. Unfortunately I listened to some people that said it was deflated tappets so I let it idle and revved it. Any way I re-did the timing and checked compression on that side and got 195's so I'm hopeful its not valves. After replacing the solenoid I repeatedly got misfires everywhere ...both sides ,bank 1 then bank 2 and a remaining p1539. After the DME fix its down to 3 cyl.misfires on bank1 as it stands now.
  22. I did have them out in the past and checked them, they were the updated ones w larger heat sinks, didn't see any cracks and checked ohms seemed good. Drove again today ….why does the codes change now I have 301 302 303 instead of 1313 1314 1315 I never cleared anything...thanks v
  23. Well the plugs air NGK's correct ones.Gas I've putting 10-15 dollars in at a time so it's fresh. I'll check out warehouse33auto. Thanks V
  24. Coils....no...should I get the Beru or NKG? Maybe I'll try swapping sides see if it follows. V
  25. OK...All systems were set during my drive with the exception of secondary air and evap.. BUT...I threw a CEL cleared it got another. P1313 P1314 P1314 P1319 I guess all misfires bank 1. Emission relevant. Not too sure what to do now. Already replaced MAF/AOS/Plugs/Solenoid Bank 2/Actuator ramps Bank 1 and 2/Fuel Filter/Batt. The money evaporator is working at it's highest capacity....
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