Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by vza

  1. Hi All, 99 Boxster base.Replaced front rotors and pads. It seems as though my brakes really didn't improve much. Actually there is no real difference other than some squeal. I feel if I had to make an immediate short stop I just wouldn't be able to. It feels as though I don't have power brakes. The pedal height seems normal and not spongy. I have TC (Traction Control?) in car and read you need a PTS2 to bleed brakes in order to open a valve so the calipers remained attached during the work and brakes were not bleed because the system was not opened anyway. Any thoughts thanks V
  2. Emmm....we'll see what happens!! Does my '99 use the brake dampers??v
  3. Hi Ahsai, OK ..so am I applying it to the corners of the pad where there's a little cut outs? I believe thats where the clip and the pin meet the pad as a friction points. OK to use brake cleaner? Ever hear anything about powerstop? BTW been running the car with NO CEL's no pendings even. Thanks again for the help.v
  4. Hi, I'm replacing pads and rotors all around on my 99 boxster base. In Bentley and 101 Projects there is no mention of cleaning the calipers with brake cleaner. Also no mention of applying brake lube or where to apply it (the little packet that comes w/ Brakes). Is cleaning and lube not recommended on these cars. I'm using the Power Stop Z23 sport upgrade w/ slotted and cross cut rotors. Hope it's a wise choice. Thanks V
  5. Yes that sums it up....1st bad solenoid on bank 2 which in turn caused the transistor to go out in DME as I understand it. Mis timed bank 1 causing misfire codes ...replaced bank 1 tensioner as precaution Ahsai...oddly enough the CEL test is under engine/activations.v
  6. OK...there was an actuation for CEL and it wasn't coming on.....hey it always came on before all the time...not like I'm missing it. I've been drivin it and sounds and runs great....a lot more power! And....I PASSED INSPECTION! v
  7. Snapped right back in,....thanks.
  8. Yes I was thinking the same, funny in the referenced article his was reading 3 and 0 as well. Whats up w the CEL, now I'm thinking its not working cause I couldn't test it with the durametric.
  9. Maybe somethings goin on w the software or the OBD plug, I purchased as refurbished from durametric directly. I've been reading that fluctuating cam deviation is a sign of a failing IMS.,should I be worried about this? Could i have damaged the IMS shaft when hammering the new bearing in? Its odd I ran it again and it was stable at 3 again for a good while then started dancing again.Software also said i had P1123 and 1125 code but I had no CEL didn't specify if it was a pending code. Then I tried to activate the CEL w software and it didn't light but it does light when ignition is in the on position. Seems like I fix one thing and 5 more things go wrong. v
  10. OK....Ahsai your a genius!! I reset the DME and lo and behold. Bank 1 is +3 Bank 2 0. Drove for about an hr and no CEL so far. Now when I checked it before driving, it was solid 3 and 0 no fluctuation. After driving for an hr or so I checked it again and Bank 1 was fluctuating between 3 and 4 for the deviation, Bank 2 was steady at 0..I did replace the IMS so I'm not sure what thats about. I also may have a pending code for o2 sensors on both banks. What do you think. I added pix of fuel trims as well. Thanks so much for hanging with me and helping out! V
  11. Well if all fails I guess I'm gonna tare down bank 1 and check the cam allocation and the actuator for proper assembly but I hope I dont have to.v
  12. Yes the locking tool only locks the exhaust cam. I did however replace the wear pads on both banks. I do recall the piston and the spring but not fully coming apart and I know the 0 ring on one side is opposite to the other side. bank 1 o ring the bottom and bank 2 0 ring on the top as far as I remember. Hopefully the DME just needs a reset.
  13. I definitely did check and re-check cam to cam allocation before closing it up when doing the solenoid. Just playing devils advocate. I'll reset DME and drive it and scan it tomorrow and keep my fingers crossed. thanks again v
  14. Hmm...so you're still hopeful...thats good. You think the DME just needs to be reset? Quick question: Is there anything else that would cause the -17 deviation? ie. If the timing was off by a tooth or roller between the cams would that cause my problem? (hope the answer to that is no.) thanks v
  15. OK, Finally got back to re-timing bank 1. Just to recap Bank 1 was at -15 Deviation and was determined bank 1 slipped timing. Re-timed bank 1 and replaced chain tensioner. Set it.... bang on ...checked it with my little puck and put my cam lock tool on it and it all lined up perfectly. Spun the crank a million times re-checked still bang on. Re-assembled everything(by now you know where it's going right?) started her up... 20 min warm up or more. Bank 1 is now at -17 deviation......2 degrees worse.(AAhhhhhh.....)Bank 2 still remains at 0. Shut it down and re-checked the timing on Bank 1 and it still is bang on....so slipping.Now I didn't drive it ....it is still up on the stands, didn't clear the CEL. I don't know if driving it and putting it under load would make a difference....I doubt it. Does this mean my cam to cam allocation is off. I can't wrap my head around it! Now what???? Thanks V
  16. OK I'll check it out, thanks again, V
  17. Thanks JFP, so where does it actually go? It seems to fit at the top where the filter attaches to but I've been reading it goes on the bottom of the plastic filter carrier ...if so does it just sit on the bottom or is supposed to be attached. Do I have to buy another oil filter cover/canister/carrier.....what ever its called! . thanks v
  18. Hi All, Went to replace oil filter and a rubber 'grommet connecter' came out with the filter. It's a round rubber grommet with a spring... goes between filter and intake/out-take. Just want to be sure that it just pushed back up into the tube where it came from, no special attaching required. 99 Boxster Base Thanks V
  19. Just for clarification what do I need to ask them to do? v
  20. Hi Loren, What actually needs to be programmed and who can do it? Also, I do not have the key codes that come original w car...are they needed to reprogram? thanks v
  21. Hi, Thanks for that thread, will give it a try. Seems no additional reprogramming was needed on the earlier MY's. Do you remember if you had to reprogram anything using a PWIS or PS2? thanks again v
  22. Was considering a 996 cluster upgrade for my 1999 Boxster base. There is some confusion as to whether the cluster needs to be reprogrammed to work in the boxster. I know mileage correction is necessary but there's talk about adding Vin # and enabling the volt and oil pressure gauges bla...bla. Some mention of Palo Alto Speedometer reprogramming but not sure what they need, I don't have original key codes... some say it is needed to reprogram the cluster. Any thoughts? thanks v
  23. Well thats what I was thinking. Purchased a different one anyway. thanks v
  24. Hi, Was going to purchase a used 2000 C2 cluster from eBay. Pic shows the fuel gauge as full. Is this normal when disconnected , seller said it remains at last point when disconnected. All other pix read below empty line. Skeptical! thanks v
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.