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Everything posted by vza

  1. Hi, I'm replacing pads and rotors all around on my 99 boxster base. In Bentley and 101 Projects there is no mention of cleaning the calipers with brake cleaner. Also no mention of applying brake lube or where to apply it (the little packet that comes w/ Brakes). Is cleaning and lube not recommended on these cars. I'm using the Power Stop Z23 sport upgrade w/ slotted and cross cut rotors. Hope it's a wise choice. Thanks V
  2. Yes that sums it up....1st bad solenoid on bank 2 which in turn caused the transistor to go out in DME as I understand it. Mis timed bank 1 causing misfire codes ...replaced bank 1 tensioner as precaution Ahsai...oddly enough the CEL test is under engine/activations.v
  3. OK...there was an actuation for CEL and it wasn't coming on.....hey it always came on before all the time...not like I'm missing it. I've been drivin it and sounds and runs great....a lot more power! And....I PASSED INSPECTION! v
  4. Snapped right back in,....thanks.
  5. Yes I was thinking the same, funny in the referenced article his was reading 3 and 0 as well. Whats up w the CEL, now I'm thinking its not working cause I couldn't test it with the durametric.
  6. Maybe somethings goin on w the software or the OBD plug, I purchased as refurbished from durametric directly. I've been reading that fluctuating cam deviation is a sign of a failing IMS.,should I be worried about this? Could i have damaged the IMS shaft when hammering the new bearing in? Its odd I ran it again and it was stable at 3 again for a good while then started dancing again.Software also said i had P1123 and 1125 code but I had no CEL didn't specify if it was a pending code. Then I tried to activate the CEL w software and it didn't light but it does light when ignition is in the on pos
  7. OK....Ahsai your a genius!! I reset the DME and lo and behold. Bank 1 is +3 Bank 2 0. Drove for about an hr and no CEL so far. Now when I checked it before driving, it was solid 3 and 0 no fluctuation. After driving for an hr or so I checked it again and Bank 1 was fluctuating between 3 and 4 for the deviation, Bank 2 was steady at 0..I did replace the IMS so I'm not sure what thats about. I also may have a pending code for o2 sensors on both banks. What do you think. I added pix of fuel trims as well. Thanks so much for hanging with me and helping out! V
  8. Well if all fails I guess I'm gonna tare down bank 1 and check the cam allocation and the actuator for proper assembly but I hope I dont have to.v
  9. Yes the locking tool only locks the exhaust cam. I did however replace the wear pads on both banks. I do recall the piston and the spring but not fully coming apart and I know the 0 ring on one side is opposite to the other side. bank 1 o ring the bottom and bank 2 0 ring on the top as far as I remember. Hopefully the DME just needs a reset.
  10. I definitely did check and re-check cam to cam allocation before closing it up when doing the solenoid. Just playing devils advocate. I'll reset DME and drive it and scan it tomorrow and keep my fingers crossed. thanks again v
  11. Hmm...so you're still hopeful...thats good. You think the DME just needs to be reset? Quick question: Is there anything else that would cause the -17 deviation? ie. If the timing was off by a tooth or roller between the cams would that cause my problem? (hope the answer to that is no.) thanks v
  12. OK, Finally got back to re-timing bank 1. Just to recap Bank 1 was at -15 Deviation and was determined bank 1 slipped timing. Re-timed bank 1 and replaced chain tensioner. Set it.... bang on ...checked it with my little puck and put my cam lock tool on it and it all lined up perfectly. Spun the crank a million times re-checked still bang on. Re-assembled everything(by now you know where it's going right?) started her up... 20 min warm up or more. Bank 1 is now at -17 deviation......2 degrees worse.(AAhhhhhh.....)Bank 2 still remains at 0. Shut it down and re-checked the timing on Bank 1 and it
  13. OK I'll check it out, thanks again, V
  14. Thanks JFP, so where does it actually go? It seems to fit at the top where the filter attaches to but I've been reading it goes on the bottom of the plastic filter carrier ...if so does it just sit on the bottom or is supposed to be attached. Do I have to buy another oil filter cover/canister/carrier.....what ever its called! . thanks v
  15. Hi All, Went to replace oil filter and a rubber 'grommet connecter' came out with the filter. It's a round rubber grommet with a spring... goes between filter and intake/out-take. Just want to be sure that it just pushed back up into the tube where it came from, no special attaching required. 99 Boxster Base Thanks V
  16. Just for clarification what do I need to ask them to do? v
  17. Hi Loren, What actually needs to be programmed and who can do it? Also, I do not have the key codes that come original w car...are they needed to reprogram? thanks v
  18. Hi, Thanks for that thread, will give it a try. Seems no additional reprogramming was needed on the earlier MY's. Do you remember if you had to reprogram anything using a PWIS or PS2? thanks again v
  19. Was considering a 996 cluster upgrade for my 1999 Boxster base. There is some confusion as to whether the cluster needs to be reprogrammed to work in the boxster. I know mileage correction is necessary but there's talk about adding Vin # and enabling the volt and oil pressure gauges bla...bla. Some mention of Palo Alto Speedometer reprogramming but not sure what they need, I don't have original key codes... some say it is needed to reprogram the cluster. Any thoughts? thanks v
  20. Well thats what I was thinking. Purchased a different one anyway. thanks v
  21. Hi, Was going to purchase a used 2000 C2 cluster from eBay. Pic shows the fuel gauge as full. Is this normal when disconnected , seller said it remains at last point when disconnected. All other pix read below empty line. Skeptical! thanks v
  22. OK thanks,I was using pelican as a reference and they have them listed backwards. v
  23. OK I'll do my best with scavenge pump. A little confusion w part number and tensioner. I'm replacing the tensioner located on Bank 1 side and accessed from the bottom not the side as in bank 2 ...correct? This is called the IMS tensioner? Is there an updated tensioner with a pre-tension spring or is that for a 911. Sorry want make sure I'm replacing correct one for chain noise. I guess I have to time the bank 1st and replace the tensioner afterwards because I can't lock the crank and cam down the way it is now ….correct?.v
  24. OK....so it looks like that is the problem.....the timing. It looks like 7 or more degrees on the pic dosen't it!! The tensioner I would replace (because of the loss of timing and the chain rattle) would be the the IMS tensioner as mentioned (maybe getting weak or worn). Just confirming. I had hard time getting the scavenge pump back in last time. Is it ok to back a few of the cam cover bolts out(near to the pump) without the risk of breaking the seal on the cam cover creating a leak. What do you think? OK I'll give it a try. See what happens!! Thanks V
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