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Everything posted by vza

  1. Ugh....should I wait till its a CEL before investigating?
  2. Put rebuilt DME back in and drove for an hour or so. No CEL yet, however I have some pending codes. Didn't record them,had to do with fuel trims. I did monitor STFT and they were bouncing around a bit at idle but more or less pretty the same between 2 banks under load. Hoping the pending codes will never throw a CEL and I'm good. Are the pending codes just until the DME learns the trims...so to speak. Thanks v
  3. I sent in the DME and it was determined to need a rebuild. Waiting to get it back. I heard that if a solenoid is bad it will cause components in the DME to fail. I replaced the solenoid already hopefully this will solve the issue. v
  4. OK....fingers crossed....maybe start a go fund me page LOL. Thanks V
  5. Well ...another bit of info. I spoke w indie who said there was power going to the actuator and told him my results with the lightbulb test and he said the DME is in "limp mode" and maybe shutting down that actuator that's why the bulb is not lighting. Confused!! So...would the the DME shut it down? Is that the reason I'm getting no light or a faulty DME? Further more he said the chip burnt for a reason so thats another issue. Thanks V
  6. I checked with Modulemaster and they don't do it ECUdoctor does it for 657.00 ,send in DME, key and immobilizer and they reprogram the key 5 yr warranty, Moduleexperts do it for 229 lifetime warranty but said I have to bring to dealership for a key re-learn and 2 dealerships somehow can't give a price I'm waiting on a callback. Any ideas? Thanks V
  7. OK got 12v at the switch and continuity between pin 25 on DME plug and connector so I assume a bad DME. I also opened up the DME and there was continuity between pin 25 and the middle leg of replaced transistor (not sure what that tells me)Should I bother jumping the wire from bank 1 to bank 2 to see if the codes change (seems moot) or buy a used DME? I did mention earlier that when I pulled the old transistor I pulled the pc board eyelets out with it but got them back in ...….wondering if I fried the board. Not sure how to proceed Any ideas? thanks v
  8. Oh...ok....got it ,I thought it was all coming all out of the DME plug. For the +12v I will have to go ground to the body to check? Cause I guess the ground coming from DME only goes to ground when over 2000 RPM's ....right?
  9. I wanted to rule out the harness....I can just check continuity between two ends of the harness....harness DME plug to 2 pin connecter. Correct?
  10. OK, so its confirmed...attached light bulb harness to bank 2 (problem Bank) and revved up to 4000 or so..nothing. Put harness on bank 1 and got a light just above 2000 rpm's. So I assume its the harness or DME not getting voltage to the actuator. Next step is check continuity between 2 pin actuator connector and DME pins. If I get continuity its the DME correct? thanks for all the help...v
  11. Measure the width from the mount bolt to mount bolt on the rail? thanks v
  12. Anyone know if I can get 2015 Cayman Seats into a 99 Boxster Base?? Thanks V
  13. Yes ,codes returned after the new transistor but I inadvertently removed the PC board eyelets when removing the old transistor. I got the eyelets back in and checked continuity but you never know. In any case if the light doesn't light then there's no current getting to the actuator.v
  14. Well the solenoid is new(replaced) so its the actuator if not an electrical issue. Thanks for the input Ahsai, I will go ahead and check w lightbulb. v
  15. Well that didn't work. Seems like the car was less sluggish.Thru cel half hr into the drive... same p1539 and others. So for the light bulb test to check the current to actuator. I have an old solenoid I can clip the connecter off attach a 5w 12v bulb(is it pos or neg specific or doesn't it matter). Then plug it into the wire side coming from dme and see if it lights. Is there a threshold as to when it lights (ie 2000 rpms)...do I drive the car or just Rev it. Can I check both sides with same connecter? thanks v
  16. Yes I can do it with my OBDII Light software.
  17. OK I'll replace the transistor and see if the CEL goes away forever. Fingers crossed...Thanks again V
  18. OK ....resistor not needed thats what I thought. ....so replace with the 373...you think that was the problem....would that allow the actuator not to engage ?? Thanks again for your input ....big help. Vince
  19. Numbers on the transistor 30046 44313.1 any other numbers are burnt and cannot be read useless the chip next to it is the same and can be used as reference. V
  20. Bosch BIP373 Coil Driver Mod Kit from DIYAUTOTUNE is the part I need? It comes with a resistor but not too sure if I would use it. Thanks....looking forward to resolving this. V
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