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vza

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Everything posted by vza

  1. vza
    Thanks for the info....so the M490 amp seems like the one. Probably be my next winter project. Not quite following the brown plug business. So an extra harness(brown plug) is made up to go from the head unit to the amp?? Are these the pre outs that go to the amp for the rear speakers? Or.....maybe not....I'm using this amp for an upgrade to add rear speakers where I have none presently. So in my case I think I just modify the clip to plug into the 6 way amp then add the 4 rear speaker wires to the clip that go to the rear speakers. Correct? V Thanks V
  2. vza
    Hi All , Recovering my 99 boxster seats. I started with the seat back bolsters and all went pretty good. I'm having trouble getting the last 6 inches of the vinyl molding or edging into the plastic channel on the back of the seat back where the map pocket is. It keeps popping out....i even tried a little contact cement but not working. Any ideas
  3. vza
    Happy Holidays All, Installed short shift kit 99 boxster. A few things.....noticed the metal covers that house the bushings which accept the circlip are notched but didn't see any notches on the shift assembly. They both went in fine although one I had to apply a fair amount of pressure squeezing it in to get the circlip on. The circlip was also very tight and had to be forced on w a screwdriver. The shifter shifts fine but I'm finding laterally from side to side it doesn't spring back to center when in neutral. In hind site I'm thinking maybe I should have removed one of the washers that go between the metal cover and the bushing to free it up a bit. I still might be able to do it through the boot cover. Also, I only installed the set screw and jam nut on one side but there really wasn't any play to pick up anyway. Thanks v
  4. vza
    Think I answered my own question.....it goes to the right, to center the shifter....Confirm if you feel like it! V
  5. vza
    Hi All, Gona upgrade to a short shifter 99 Boxster. The new shifter has the bend in the shifter leaning towards the driver (L) side. In some pix and videos it looks like it should be leaning to the R side. Which is it.... or is it a matter of preference? Read some threads where you just un bolt it and turn it around. Thanks V
  6. vza
    OK so if I get the 6 x 40 amp it will be plug and play for adding the rear speakers. Correct?
  7. vza
    I would start with the most simple 1st which would be timing. I think mine at some point was were yours is at after doing some work on it. I thought it ran great and thought for sure my timing was not the issue. Sure enough …..it turned out my timing in one of the banks slipped. V
  8. vza
    Fixed ....Window stop bumper was in the lower (incorrect) notch on the rail.
  9. vza
    Hi All, 99 Boxster Base. My R window makes a knocking sound when its down and happens when closing the door. Upon inspection the front part of the window is hitting the front top "cable wheel" of the regulator. Is there a piece of foam or rubber missing from the top of the regulator. I can probably cure it by cementing a small piece of rubber to the top mount to avoid glass to metal contact. Thanks V
  10. vza
    99 Boxster Base So after much work and money. New Batt, AOS,MAF,Plugs,Fuel Filter,Air Filter,Gas Cap,Oil Cap o-ring,Cleaned TB, Timing,New VarioCam Solenoid, Repaired DME, I'm getting a CEL with P1123 P1125 codes every 600 miles or so for rich fuel on both banks. Checked as best I could for vacuum leaks, Fuel regulator I think is within spec for vacuum Maybe on the low side. Any thought as to what I do next. Car is running good says I'm getting 26 MPG on the H'way which is hard to believe. Out of ideas!!! V
  11. vza
    Well there was some improvement ....all the drop links were shot. I mean some said they had remarkable improvement but I'm not feeling it. At some point everything will probably get changed out. V
  12. vza
    Hi All, 99 Boxster Base.I replaced my rear Track Arms today (thats what the dealership said was the source of my clunking noise along with drop links) I was surprised when I noticed the new TRW booted joint on the arm was easily moved around with my fingers, I thought it would be much more tighter than the old. The old joint was just a little easier to move around. Just wondering maybe I didn't need to do it. Any thoughts?? Thanks Vince
  13. vza
    Hi All,99 Boxster Base. Need to replace my trailing arms (rear) and all drop links. EPS or TRW thats the question. Any preference? V
  14. vza
    Hi, No way this 996 cover is going on my Boxster top unless Im doing something wrong. The 2 holes are for the spikes I assume, they are way wider than the cover. Any thoughts Thanks V
  15. vza
    Leave it to me!!!....Thanks V
  16. vza
    OK....how do I insure I dont get air in it when doing the bleed? Thanks V
  17. vza
    Hi All, Just confirming that I CAN replace my brake fluid by using the Motive Pressure Bleeder on my 99 Boxster Base WITH TC (Traction Control), I've heard conflicting info regarding having to open valves in control unit w PTS2 and then some saying if you're bleeding after the control unit its fine. Thanks V
  18. vza
    OK ....well here's an update. Upon closer investigation I didn't over torque the lug....I believe it was previously weakened and damaged already. The previous owner had 7mm spacers on the rear wheels and didn't upgrade to extended lug studs so the existing stock stocks were 7mm too short and just about catching the bore in the hubs. I did manage to clean the one bore out with a tap. I then removed the spacers and got good torque at 96 Ft Lbs on all lugs. Did auto cross last week without knowing this info .....ouch!! V
  19. vza
    Okay..... I dodged the 1st bullet and didn't have to drill. I removed all the lugs with the exception of the one that was spinning and wedged a small pry bar between the spacer and drum pressed down on the bottom of the wheel with my feet and got my impact on it and zipped it out .....5 minutes. BUT....the 1st 3 treads on the bore are stripped I can't get the bolt started. The remaining 80% or more of the bore is good. Would running a chase through the bore be okay.....dont really want to replace the hub at this point. As long as I can torque it down to spec I imagine I'm good.....V
  20. vza
    Its loose already....spinning in the wheel.
  21. vza
    Well.... I painted some lugs and when replacing one my awful torque wrench from Harbor Freight didn't click(not the 1st time)....first off Im returning 2 of them on Monday. The lug/stud is just spinning and I can't back it out. Any tips as to how to get it out? Thanks V
  22. vza
    OK ...When I say twisted I mean it looks torqued to one side at the end closet to the front I guess where its attached to the frame.....I'll look at the other side see what it looks like. Would that cause a clunk sound?? V
  23. vza
    OK Thanks....now for my next fix.....I get this awful knocking sound when going over potholes/bumps etc....front and back....more in the back. Struts seem ok....I know one of the strut bumpers rotted off one of the fronts. The rear ball joints in the control arms looked ok. The bushing at the end of the 'fork' looked somewhat twisted but not torn....not sure if its should be that way. Any ideas?? V
  24. vza
    Any one know if a Cabrio hardtop cover will fit a Boxster hardtop?? Thanks V
  25. vza
    FYI...Got the night illumination to work w/ the window switches as OBC hack. Trick is: you have to pull the switch apart 1st. 1st remove the rocker by releasing the peg from the hole on each side. Mark both pieces so you re-assemble the same way. Turn the switch over w/ pins facing you, there are 4 tabs to release, pull the switch apart,(switch is keyed so it goes back only 1 way) Now.....look for 2 contacts that are always closed on the side of the switch. You'll find them by looking and pressing the rocker 'nubs' (2 small squares of plastic that activate the switch) When you find the contacts get a small piece of electrical tape, maybe fold it over at the end so not to gum everything up, and open the switch and wedge it between the contact so the circuit remains uncompleted. tape the remaining to the top of the board so it doesn't move.( I may try and de-solder and pull out the contacts and glue a small plastic button in its place.) It has to be done w/ the 2 contacts. Re-assemble the switch.
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