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Everything posted by vza

  1. Well ..feel a little more confident. Removed my cams today and found timing was off between them as I suspected.(1 tooth on the exhaust)The chain was not set up correctly with the dimples as well. Some pics of cams and badly worn ramps. Some questions. How does the pic of the lifter look....looks good to me? Torque specs for: solenoid to actuator ? Actuator to Cam Housing ? Cam Cover 9.5 Bearing Saddles 7.5 Sprocket 10 + 10% so 11.5 (I r
  2. Hi all, at this point my heads spinning. Working on 99 boxster base. After 2 P253 tools and a 9216 tool(after market knockoff) that I wasn't able to drop in to check my timing I decided to discard the tools and eyeball the exhaust cams. The cam lock tool(half size one) however did go in and the exhaust cams did line up w the case seams. I did however notice that bank 1 intake cam was not at 3 o'clock at TDC compression and not at 9 o'clock TDC exhaust, they are 2 and 8 o'clock respectively. Well I ignored this fact for a moment thinking how can both banks be out. I went ahead locked bank 2 w c
  3. One step at a time...Anyone have any ideas as to why I CAN fit my cam lock tool from LN engineering(the one that just locks the exhaust cam) into the cam and bolt it down(both banks at TDC respectively) and my P253 cam timing tool from SIR CAN NOT be slotted in and bolted down on either bank at TDC? If the slot is lining up with one why isn't it lining up with the other. This is 2nd tool SIR sent me.
  4. OK...Got my new IMS cover bolts.... torqued them in 90 inch lbs. with my inch Lbs torque Wrench(thanks JFP). Got a replacement cam timing tool from SIR tools which I still can't get to go on. Seems like it drops in but can't bolt it to the case on either bank. All though the cam locking tool from LN IMS toolset drops in(exhaust Cam only) and bolts right up. This is odd to me that one would fit and not the other. When I compared both tools the raised groove on the LN tool seemed narrower than the groove on the SIR tool leading me to believe it's too wide and will not fit into the cam groove....
  5. Yeah...thought of that but then read it would be inaccurate in the conversion. So 90 in lbs. Simple conversion correct? V
  6. The cover did drop in and bolts did go in w two fingers...I believe I didn't feel or hear a click w my torque wrench at such a low setting 7.5 ft lbs.and bolts were over torqued.IMS centered nicely. I put the old bolts in and they snugged up waiting for news ones to install and bought a new torque wrench. Thanks v
  7. So what kind go damage could I have done by snapping a bolt head and from the looks of it stretching the other 2 bolts on the IMS cover install. I never felt a click from my torque wrench. Somewhat worried here....waiting for new bolts to arrive!
  8. I don't think I distorted it and as far as evenly..... was a little off 1 or 2 mm here and there and it arrived what appears to be 13mm....I'm not using the $700.00 tool....the car was 2800.00. Any ideas.....should I just get another and give a try?? As far as the IMS....I got the bearing in, spiroloc in good. I got the cover on and 'snap' the cover bolt broke, I brought the new torque wrench back and I guess I'll get a better one??, I felt I didn't even exert near enough to snap it and the torque wrench never clicked. Any experience with these bolts snapping. I did manage to work the ot
  9. Thanks, I understand that it has to be 13mm BUT it's getting there that I'm concerned with...if its pressed in unevenly like 10mm on one side 13mm on another and 11mm across from that.....etc. If I finally get it all at 13mm am I good... or is the RMS twisting out of shape and not good anymore by not having the entire seal pressed in evenly all the way around till I reach 13mm. BTW how do I know I have a new PTFE design I just had EBS Racing look it up and send the part I believe it was manufactured by Corteco. Thanks V
  10. Hi All, I pulled my RMS and installed the new seal. My question is I can't seem to get a good eye on my pocket ruler to see if it's 13mm all the way around. Seems it might 12 on one side 13 on another …..just not uniform all the way around during the press in.. I can continue to fuss with it....get my 3''pvc pipe tool on it and just really try and meticulously watch the depth...now is it ok to just manipulate the tool so I eventually get it even and ARRIVE at 13mm all the way around OR does it need to be pressed in on the same plane millimeter by millimeter the whole way down?(so one side is
  11. Well, I found the 'glitter' in the IMS shaft (stuck to a magnet) then out of curiosity I ran the magnet through the drained engine oil and didn't get anything seemed strange to me....nothing in the filter either. Well I'm going to cross my fingers and proceed. Installing an RMS and I've read both to install completely dry or use Curil T on the outside diameter....which is it? Thanks V
  12. Well ....technically....what about in reality??(reference to your quote) Well that's a drag...I sort of knew that going into it.....picked the car up on the cheap.
  13. What about the glitter and compromised bearing....LN engineering says STOP DO NOT PROCEED....other blogs and sites(pelican) don't seemed to be to concerned ….they actually tell you to remove metal debris from the IMS shaft if there is any....lots of different views goin around....very confusing. I kind of thought I was in good shape...no metal in my oil filter at all...3 small flakes in bottom of filter housing and as mentioned fine glitter in the shaft. Ugh
  14. Well that's alarming ….only hand tightened them and they were loose after the bearing came out, I've read the IMS has a little play and can move forward into the oil pump I wound up snugging them up but only finger tight using a socket between thumb and forefinger...and installed the LN cam lock and marked the cams. I mean I doubt I disturbed a pressed fitting by having these hand tight,.... Correct?
  15. I used the easy out tool....just snake it behind the Bearing and screw the threaded bolt on and proceed with the included puller. Worked great....good amount of force to get it to pop. Bearing was in fact compromised, the rubber seal was torn allowing engine oil to get into the bearing and wash out the 'permenant ' grease. Some metallic 'glitter' cleaned out of shaft....hope it hasn't done too much damage!!! Any thoughts??
  16. Well I got the Ims tool kit from LN engineering and the cam lock dropped right in for bank 1 which leads me to believe the P253cam tool is off I couldn't get it in bank 2 but didn't spend that much time with it. I went ahead and marked the other 3 cams and inserted 2 set screws in place of the the Ims cover bolts as per Pelican instructions. Went ahead to remove the bearing and of course the center stud for the bearing snapped. I rented a pilot bearing puller but would have to fashion a 2'' pipe to use it with. However I didn't realize the tool kit comes with an 'easyout' sort of an oval nut w
  17. Yeah ...I saw that I'm just wondering if in fact its the tool....seems like it would be considering both banks are out at the same place. V
  18. Well... I got my tool the other day and am having similar problems. It won't drop in when crank is locked TDC....I manage to get it in a few degrees after TDC and the bolt holes don't line up to bolt it to the side of the engine case as intended. The interesting thing is this is duplicated on the other bank as well. Now some will say well....your out of timing....BUT what are the chances both banks are out at the same exact place(few degrees after TDC) and why doesn't the bolt holes line up? I can only assume the tool was machined incorrectly. BTW nothing was done to the engine yet to facilita
  19. 99 Boxster Base Yeah ...don't know whats up with the FW lock, it 's for a 99 boxster base...bolt did not thread easily. Yes, I wanted to check the cam timing with the P253 and was also going to use to hold the cams...Pelican said it was fine.??. Worked on it some today...I was able to get it to click in both cams after much jockeying around. But still was not able to bolt it to the case ....holes didn't line up. Went over to bank 1 and was able to hold with my left hand while turning the crank and felt it click in at the same spot bank 2 did.....and...was not able to bolt bank 1 either. Now th
  20. Well the flywheel lock didn't seem to fit correctly. When inserted into the FW teeth the bolt sort of began to bind in the case so I did not force it. I only grabbed maybe 1 thread and proceeded with a impact wrench....all was good....FW came off and the case bolt hole was unaffected. BUT....getting the FW back on and torquing it down maybe another issue. Any tips on how to get the tool on to allow the bolt to be tighten up without any binding or chance of cross threading the hole? I tried to jockey the FW around so it would line up but couldn't do it. While I'm having my run of bad luck with
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