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vza

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Everything posted by vza

  1. Dealership.another indie?
  2. OK, Swapped sides with coils and cleared CEL. Got another CEL half hr into the drive. The same misfires on Cylinders 1-2-3. So I guess its not the coils. Part #'s on the all the coils were the same with the exception of THA3 (on 3 of them) and HEB3 (on the other 3) not sure if thats relevant. Codes are as follows: P0300 Misfire damage to TWC Pending Codes: P1313 All Misfires 1-2-3 P0301 Misfire 1 Cat damage P1314 P0302 Misfire 2 " " P1315 P0303 Misfire 3 " " P1319 Misfire emission relevant Any ideas: vacum leak/knock sensor/ flywheel or cam sensor?? Thanks...
  3. Quick question: I assume I should clear the CEL's after doing the coil swap? Thanks V
  4. Yeah pretty much....went to him once....said Bank 1 was compensating for no actuator in Bank 2, advised me to replace the bank 2 actuator and if that didn't work the engine would need a tear down to check for bent valves!! I've been to 2 indies and they both didn't want to deal .....said it would be very expensive going forward but no one really gave me a diagnosis.Wasn't very helpful. V
  5. I'll swap the coils. Maybe its only fatigued coils!! The current reading I have(-19 degree business) was with all the work complete with the exception of the DME fix. v
  6. Yes, I agree Bank 2 didn't activate cause of the failed but now fixed DME. Would he(indie) have them stored or should I confirm he said -19 degrees or you would want to see what it's saying now(a new scan), maybe time for a durametric, I called today to see if they had a refurbished one, they occasionally get one in.
  7. No only the pads or ramps on Bank 1. Solenoid and pads on Bank 2. When I brought it to indie before the DME fix he said the the actuator on 2 was not moving. Said Bank 1 had -19 Degree timing and Bank 2 had 0. Not sure if that helps. V
  8. When doing the work I initially had the timing slip on bank 1 had a nasty tapping sound. Unfortunately I listened to some people that said it was deflated tappets so I let it idle and revved it. Any way I re-did the timing and checked compression on that side and got 195's so I'm hopeful its not valves. After replacing the solenoid I repeatedly got misfires everywhere ...both sides ,bank 1 then bank 2 and a remaining p1539. After the DME fix its down to 3 cyl.misfires on bank1 as it stands now.
  9. I did have them out in the past and checked them, they were the updated ones w larger heat sinks, didn't see any cracks and checked ohms seemed good. Drove again today ….why does the codes change now I have 301 302 303 instead of 1313 1314 1315 I never cleared anything...thanks v
  10. Well the plugs air NGK's correct ones.Gas I've putting 10-15 dollars in at a time so it's fresh. I'll check out warehouse33auto. Thanks V
  11. Coils....no...should I get the Beru or NKG? Maybe I'll try swapping sides see if it follows. V
  12. OK...All systems were set during my drive with the exception of secondary air and evap.. BUT...I threw a CEL cleared it got another. P1313 P1314 P1314 P1319 I guess all misfires bank 1. Emission relevant. Not too sure what to do now. Already replaced MAF/AOS/Plugs/Solenoid Bank 2/Actuator ramps Bank 1 and 2/Fuel Filter/Batt. The money evaporator is working at it's highest capacity....
  13. I know my misfire is set and O2,evap and cat are not. Will do. Thanks V
  14. Oh...ok...Does it really require 400 miles to ready the systems??? Want to thank you for all the input. Big Help!!!
  15. Not disagreeing, but wouldn't it have been reset when it was rebuilt. I reinstalled it with the bat. disconnected. I'm only saying this cause the OBDII is still saying some systems still aren't ready so I want to drive it enough so I can get it to inspection. The inspection station said I have to drive 400 miles in order for the systems to ready themselves....(dosen't seem accurate to me) so I don't want to have to start at square 1 by a reset.(I'm gona get caught sooner or later with a failed sticker) The pending faults came up about half hr into the drive when checking randomly.
  16. Yes, It always flagged me with the P1539 before the fix. Now different codes relating to rich mix and primary coil?? I don't have a durametric only using the generic OBDII reader. Should I reset it or wait and see if it throws a CEL. These were pending codes only....no CEL as of yet! Thanks V
  17. Ugh....should I wait till its a CEL before investigating?
  18. Put rebuilt DME back in and drove for an hour or so. No CEL yet, however I have some pending codes. Didn't record them,had to do with fuel trims. I did monitor STFT and they were bouncing around a bit at idle but more or less pretty the same between 2 banks under load. Hoping the pending codes will never throw a CEL and I'm good. Are the pending codes just until the DME learns the trims...so to speak. Thanks v
  19. I sent in the DME and it was determined to need a rebuild. Waiting to get it back. I heard that if a solenoid is bad it will cause components in the DME to fail. I replaced the solenoid already hopefully this will solve the issue. v
  20. OK....fingers crossed....maybe start a go fund me page LOL. Thanks V
  21. Well ...another bit of info. I spoke w indie who said there was power going to the actuator and told him my results with the lightbulb test and he said the DME is in "limp mode" and maybe shutting down that actuator that's why the bulb is not lighting. Confused!! So...would the the DME shut it down? Is that the reason I'm getting no light or a faulty DME? Further more he said the chip burnt for a reason so thats another issue. Thanks V
  22. I checked with Modulemaster and they don't do it ECUdoctor does it for 657.00 ,send in DME, key and immobilizer and they reprogram the key 5 yr warranty, Moduleexperts do it for 229 lifetime warranty but said I have to bring to dealership for a key re-learn and 2 dealerships somehow can't give a price I'm waiting on a callback. Any ideas? Thanks V
  23. OK got 12v at the switch and continuity between pin 25 on DME plug and connector so I assume a bad DME. I also opened up the DME and there was continuity between pin 25 and the middle leg of replaced transistor (not sure what that tells me)Should I bother jumping the wire from bank 1 to bank 2 to see if the codes change (seems moot) or buy a used DME? I did mention earlier that when I pulled the old transistor I pulled the pc board eyelets out with it but got them back in ...….wondering if I fried the board. Not sure how to proceed Any ideas? thanks v
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