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vza

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Posts posted by vza

  1. Same results with new relay. I then checked voltage on each wire of bank 2 solenoid. 

    14.9 red/grn with little or no fluctuating when revved.

    14.6 on brn/gry with lower voltage when revved...maybe down to 10v

    So kinda lost here. I guess I could swap plugs/coils see if it follows, doubtful cause they were replaced. 

    Then check for low resistance in the wires from solenoid connector to pins for DME. 

    Was looking at wire diagrams but couldn't find pin # on any DME connectors for red/grn and brn/gry wires. 

  2. Crap...had my hopes up. Maybe theres 2 circuits downstream from the relay...spitballin here!!  I'll try the relay anyway. See what happens. Maybe the relays totally shot, I did have a hard time starting at one point. 

    Car cranked but wouldnt start. Then it did after a number of attempts. 

    Briefly looked at wiring diagram. Both Red/Blu are shared with both solenoids maybe thats the issue with the relay? 

     

  3. Hobbyist mechanic so bear with me.  ...1st off not too sure how to check voltage on each pin. Do I ground multi meter to engine and just use the pos lead on multimeter to check voltage from those 2 pins?(one at a time) I just had the multimeter connected to the 2 pins on the connector is that incorrect ? I started investigating DME relay ...is that the same as the ECM relay? There's 2 relays near L tail light in the trunk. One green w 5 pins and one black w 4 pins. Is the 5 pin one the ECM relay? Other may be fuel pump relay.

    Also remember both solenoids don't activate with the Durametric. I just checked bank 2 solenoid w the 9v battery and it activated as you know.  Didn't try bank 1 solenoid cause it's not as easily accessed. Would a failing ECM relay cause both not to activate, if so maybe that's the prob. I noticed it's also intermittent, CEL lights blinks sometimes then goes to solid CEL and then it just goes off sometimes. 

  4. Oh boy. Ok I'll do some more troubleshooting. The car I believe sat around for a long time before I purchased. I'll check as follows:

    Check coil pack connectors.

    Activate solenoids and check realtime cam angle w Durametric.

    Try to activate w 9v battery. 

    Check oil strainer (maybe it's clogged...forgot to check it when I had it out)

    Any info on what the voltages should be at different RPM's? Maybe I can check the voltages as well. As fore mentioned the bulb had a dim glow at idle then grew brighter as I increased RPM's. Thanks for your input John greatly appreciated. V

  5. Ok, I would definitely hear the engine note change right? OR I would see the cam angle change when activated...(if it's possible to view cam angle and activate the solenoid together with the Durametric.) Never tried that. How likely that both are bad. Don't hear a change on either banks when activated. There are 2 solenoids on each bank, the others located between 2 coil packs are the valve lift solenoids, correct. V

  6. Did the light test. Very dim light at idle. Not sure if there's supposed to be current at idle, when rpms were increased the bulb grew brighter I guess voltage was increased along w RPM's.  I removed the solenoid and cleaned and tested it w 9v battery. Seemed to move freely and clicked. Not sure how much the plunger supposed to move. It didn't protrude from the end of the solenoid. Reinstalled with same misfire on 4 and 6. Going to reseat 4 and 6 wires to coil pack see if that does anything. Any ideas? V

  7. Right... so then the solenoids are bad. Just looking for a definitive way for testing them. If there's energy in the circuit from the light test and when the 

    solenoids are activated by the Durametric using the 'Camshaft Adjustment' command and the solenoids don't make a change in the engine the solenoids are bad. 

    Only good thing is you dont need to remove the covers and cams to replace them. Is there a way to bench test the solenoids?  V 

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