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vza

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Posts posted by vza

  1. Not disagreeing, but wouldn't it have been reset when it was rebuilt. I reinstalled it with the bat. disconnected. I'm only saying this cause the OBDII is still saying some systems still aren't ready so I want to drive it enough so I can get it to inspection. The inspection station said I have to drive 400 miles in order for the systems to ready themselves....(dosen't seem accurate to me) so I don't want to have to start at square 1 by a reset.(I'm gona get caught sooner or later with a failed sticker) The pending faults came up about half hr into the drive when checking randomly.

  2. Yes, It always flagged me with the P1539 before the fix. Now different codes relating to rich mix and primary coil?? I don't have a durametric only using the generic OBDII reader. Should I reset it or wait and see if it throws a CEL. These were pending codes only....no CEL as of yet! Thanks V

  3. Put rebuilt DME back in and drove for an hour or so. No CEL yet, however I have some pending codes. Didn't record them,had to do with fuel trims. I did monitor STFT and they were bouncing around a bit at idle but more or less pretty the same between 2 banks under load. Hoping the pending codes will never throw a CEL and I'm good. Are the pending codes just until the DME learns the trims...so to speak. Thanks v

  4. Well ...another bit of info. I spoke w indie who said there was power going to the actuator and told him my results with the lightbulb test and he said the DME is in "limp mode" and maybe shutting down that actuator that's why the bulb is not lighting. Confused!! So...would the the DME shut it down? Is that the reason I'm getting no light or a faulty DME? Further more he said the chip burnt for a reason so thats another issue. Thanks V

  5. I checked with Modulemaster and they don't do it ECUdoctor does it for 657.00 ,send in DME, key and immobilizer and they reprogram the key 5 yr warranty, Moduleexperts do it for 229 lifetime warranty but said I have to bring to dealership for a key re-learn and 2 dealerships somehow can't give a price I'm waiting on a callback. Any ideas? Thanks V

  6. OK got 12v at the switch and continuity between pin 25 on DME plug and connector so I assume a bad DME. I also opened up the DME and there was continuity between pin 25 and the middle leg of replaced transistor (not sure what that tells me)Should I bother jumping the wire from bank 1 to bank 2 to see if the codes change (seems moot) or buy a used DME? I did mention earlier that when I pulled the old transistor I pulled the pc board eyelets out with it but got them back in ...….wondering if I fried the board. Not sure how to proceed Any ideas? thanks v

  7. OK, so its confirmed...attached light bulb harness to bank 2 (problem Bank) and revved up to 4000 or so..nothing. Put harness on bank 1 and got a light just above 2000 rpm's. So I assume its the harness or DME not getting voltage to the actuator. Next step is check continuity between 2 pin actuator connector and DME pins. If I get continuity its the DME correct? thanks for all the help...v

  8. Yes ,codes returned after the new transistor but I inadvertently removed the PC board eyelets when removing the old transistor. I got the eyelets back in and checked continuity but you never know. In any case if the light doesn't light then there's no current getting to the actuator.v

  9. Well that didn't work. Seems like the car was less sluggish.Thru cel half hr into the drive... same p1539 and others. So for the light bulb test to check the current to actuator. I have an old solenoid I can clip the connecter off attach a 5w 12v bulb(is it pos or neg specific or doesn't it matter). Then plug it into the wire side coming from dme and see if it lights. Is there a threshold as to when it lights (ie 2000 rpms)...do I drive the car or just Rev it. Can I check both sides with same connecter? thanks v

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