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Posts posted by vza

  1. Hi All, 99 Boxster Base. My R window makes a knocking sound when its down and happens when closing the door. Upon inspection the front part of the window is hitting the front top "cable wheel" of the regulator. Is there a piece of foam or rubber missing from the top of the regulator. I can probably cure it by cementing a small piece of rubber to the top mount to avoid glass to metal contact. Thanks V

  2. 99 Boxster Base So after much work and money. New Batt, AOS,MAF,Plugs,Fuel Filter,Air Filter,Gas Cap,Oil Cap o-ring,Cleaned TB, Timing,New VarioCam Solenoid, Repaired DME, I'm getting a CEL with P1123 P1125 codes every 600 miles or so for rich fuel on both banks. Checked as best I could for vacuum leaks, Fuel regulator I think is within spec for vacuum Maybe on the low side. Any thought as to what I do next. Car is running good says I'm getting 26 MPG on the H'way which is hard to believe. Out of ideas!!! V

  3. Hi All, 99 Boxster Base.I replaced my rear Track Arms today (thats what the dealership said was the source of my clunking noise along with drop links) I was surprised when I noticed the new TRW booted joint on the arm was easily moved around with my fingers, I thought it would be much more tighter than the old. The old joint was just a little easier to move around. Just wondering maybe I didn't need to do it. Any thoughts?? Thanks Vince

  4. OK ....well here's an update. Upon closer investigation I didn't over torque the lug....I believe it was previously weakened and damaged already. The previous owner had 7mm spacers on the rear wheels and didn't upgrade to extended lug studs so the existing stock stocks were 7mm too short and just about catching the bore in the hubs. I did manage to clean the one bore out with a tap. I then removed the spacers and got good torque at 96 Ft Lbs on all lugs. Did auto cross last week without knowing this info .....ouch!! V

  5. Okay..... I dodged the 1st bullet and didn't have to drill. I removed all the lugs with the exception of the one that was spinning and wedged a small pry bar between the spacer and drum pressed down on the bottom of the wheel with my feet and got my impact on it and zipped it out .....5 minutes. BUT....the 1st 3 treads on the bore are stripped I can't get the bolt started. The remaining 80% or more of the bore is good. Would running a chase through the bore be okay.....dont really want to replace the hub at this point. As long as I can torque it down to spec I imagine I'm good.....V

  6. OK Thanks....now for my next fix.....I get this awful knocking sound when going over potholes/bumps etc....front and back....more in the back. Struts seem ok....I know one of the strut bumpers rotted off one of the fronts. The rear ball joints in the control arms looked ok. The bushing at the end of the 'fork' looked somewhat twisted but not torn....not sure if its should be that way. Any ideas?? V

  7. FYI...Got the night illumination to work w/ the window switches as OBC hack. Trick is: you have to pull the switch apart 1st. 1st remove the rocker by releasing the peg from the hole on each side. Mark both pieces so you re-assemble the same way. Turn the switch over w/ pins facing you, there are 4 tabs to release, pull the switch apart,(switch is keyed so it goes back only 1 way) Now.....look for 2 contacts that are always closed on the side of the switch. You'll find them by looking and pressing the rocker 'nubs' (2 small squares of plastic that activate the switch) When you find the contacts get a small piece of electrical tape, maybe fold it over at the end so not to gum everything up, and open the switch and wedge it between the contact so the circuit remains uncompleted. tape the remaining to the top of the board so it doesn't move.( I may try and de-solder and pull out the contacts and glue a small plastic button in its place.) It has to be done w/ the 2 contacts. Re-assemble the switch. 
  8. Hi all, 99 Boxster Base. P1123...P1125 CEL's


    Did fuel pressure test and results are:


    Engine Off  3.3Bar


    Idle: 3.1 Bar


    Question, with engine off (after running and shut down) the fuel pressure was 2.6 Bars if I let it sit... it crept up to 3.4 Bars...... which is the accurate reading?


    Also....when replacing the fuel rail cap on the schrader valve I over torqued it with my cheapo torque wrench and popped the top of the cap and scored the top of the fuel rail with the bottom of the cap totally trashing the cap. Is this an issue I have to worry about. The valve seemed good and didn't leak...only a slight score or scratch at the base. Can I just replace the cap and move on. Thanks V

  9. Hi All, I know this is an old thread ....I did the OBC hack using 2 window switches and everything works. I  just can't figure out how to get the night illumination to work. I jumped switched voltage(switched on when lights are on) from an adjacent switch going to pins 3 and 5(neg and hot) the lights work but then the switch loses it function. It only works when I have the hot (switched hot)to pin 5 and move my ground over from pin 4 to 3. Then 1 switch is lit and functions cant remember what the 2nd did. Can anyone help. Thanks V

  10. I did the cluster upgrade with the OBC upgrade using 2 window switches....pretty much plug and play ....all works with the exception of getting night illumination for to the switches. I read pins 3 and 5 are ground and hot respectively. I tried jumping 3 and 5 from the TC switch directly to the new switches...this did light up the switches but then caused the TC LED to remain lit at all times with the ignition off!! Can I just jump it from the cigarette lighter or ashtray light? Thanks V

  11. Hi all, 99 Boxster Base. Recently swapped my cluster for a 996 cluster and also did the OBD hack using 2 window switches instead of the stalk and it was pretty much plug and play....everything works. Batt/oil gauges and OBC. The only thing I can't figure out is how to get the new switches to illuminate when the lights are on. I figure the common ground is present so all I need is a hot wire for illumination. I tried jumping the hot from the TC switch above the 2 new switches....but nothing worked. I also read pins 3 and 5 on the switch are gnd and hot respectively so I just tried to jump them from the TC switch and they illuminated but then the TC LED light stayed lit w ignition off.Anyone know how to get em' lit? I swapped them with the door plugs and they do work so its not the switches. Thanks V

  12. Hi all, 99 boxster base. Since replacing the coolant my low coolant light blinks....added coolant ...its fine for a while then blinks again then goes off after car is at operating temp. I guess the fluid expands when hot and the light goes out. Toped off coolant opened the bleed valve and drove for a while then shut it to purge any air in the system but light keeps coming back.....thoughts?

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