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Doing some small fixes on 99 boxster base after finally correcting a CEL issue. My door speakers don't work (yes w fader full to rear) I tested the door speakers on their own and they work so not the speaks. I then used jumpers between output plug and head unit to troubleshoot head. The dash worked as they should door didnt  so I jumped dash output from head to door speakers and dash speakers were sounding ..... now on the pinout I'm assuming front means dash and rear is door OR I'm totally incorrect and the fronts are in series and door and dash are considered front and rear speakers are only included in some sort of upgrade cause I don't have speakers in the storage bin behind the seats. There is a poweramp in the frunck. thanks v....OK They do work as faint sudo-subs....awful. So I assume the rear fader is for an additional set of speakers. 

I had issues w electrical part of ignition (ac wouldn't work unless I moved key a little counter cw ) replaced electrical part and had issues w key very difficult to turn, wheel getting locked up. I replaced lock mechanism and all was good. You may have to do the same.v ps I remember I had to put a good amount of torque on steering wheel to unlock jammed wheel lock.

Hi I did see some fixes for that...just trying to properly diagnose what actually. needs. repair.v

Hi All, Some weird stuff going on with the window drop when getting in and out of the car. 99 boxster base. The right side seems fine. It seems it only half works. Heres what's going on:

Open door from inside get out, shut the door it works(only one time)

Open and shut door repeatedly from the inside without getting out it works

Open door from outside and shut it from outside(without getting in the car) it fails

It seems I only have 1 chance to shut the door from the outside after I get out of the car.

I know there are 3 micros 1. inside door handle 2.outside door handle 3.door open/closed sensor.

The least expensive would be the open/closed sensor PN# 996-613-125-00 is this the one I need to replace. Where is it? Tried to find peering into the door with panel removed of course.

The roof latch appears to work fine. 

Thanks Vince

I pumped the brake ped with car off. It's high at the start and gets higher as I pump but in very small increments v

OK, So I can bleed the brakes with the 'TC' option installed. I will pump the brakes w car not running see what happens. ceramic/carbon fiber pads. Thanks guys....V 

Hi All, 99 Boxster base.Replaced front rotors and pads. It seems as though my brakes really didn't improve much. Actually there is no real difference other than some squeal.  I feel if I had to make an immediate short stop I just wouldn't be able to. It feels as though I don't have power brakes. The pedal height seems normal and not spongy. I have TC (Traction Control?) in car and read you need a PTS2 to bleed brakes in order to open a valve so the calipers remained attached during the work and brakes were not bleed because the system was not opened anyway. Any thoughts thanks V

Emmm....we'll see what happens!! Does my '99 use the brake dampers??v

Hi Ahsai, OK ..so am I  applying it to the corners of the pad where there's a little cut outs? I believe thats where the clip and the pin meet the pad as a friction points. OK to use brake cleaner? Ever hear anything about powerstop? BTW been running the car with NO CEL's no pendings even. Thanks again for the help.v

Hi, I'm replacing pads and rotors all around on my 99 boxster base. In Bentley and 101 Projects there is no mention of cleaning the calipers with brake cleaner. Also no mention of applying brake lube or where to apply it (the little packet that comes w/ Brakes). Is cleaning and lube not recommended on these cars. I'm using the Power Stop Z23 sport upgrade w/ slotted and cross cut rotors. Hope it's a wise choice. Thanks V

Yes that sums it up....1st bad solenoid on bank 2 which in turn caused the transistor to go out in DME as I understand it. Mis timed bank 1 causing misfire codes ...replaced bank 1 tensioner as precaution 

Ahsai...oddly enough the CEL test is under engine/activations.v

OK...there was an actuation for CEL and it wasn't coming on.....hey it always came on before all the time...not like I'm missing it. I've been drivin it and sounds and runs great....a lot more power! And....I PASSED INSPECTION! v

Snapped right back in,....thanks.

Yes I was thinking the same, funny in the referenced article his was reading 3 and 0 as well. Whats up w the CEL, now I'm thinking its not working cause I couldn't test it with the durametric.

Maybe somethings goin on w the software or the OBD plug, I purchased as refurbished from durametric directly. I've been reading that fluctuating cam deviation is a sign of a failing IMS.,should I be worried about this? Could i have damaged the IMS shaft when hammering the new bearing in? Its odd I ran it again and it was stable at 3 again for a good while then started dancing again.Software also said i had P1123 and 1125 code but I had no CEL didn't specify if it was a pending code. Then I tried to activate the CEL w software and it didn't light but it does light when ignition is in the on position. Seems like I fix one thing and 5 more things go wrong. v 

OK....Ahsai your a genius!! I reset the DME and lo and behold. Bank 1 is +3 Bank 2 0. Drove for about an hr and no CEL so far. Now when I checked it before driving, it was solid 3 and 0 no fluctuation. After driving for an hr or so I checked it again and Bank 1 was fluctuating between 3 and 4 for the deviation, Bank 2 was steady at 0..I did replace the IMS so I'm not sure what thats about. I also may have a pending code for o2 sensors on both banks. What do you think. I added pix of fuel trims as well. Thanks so much for hanging with me and helping out! V

Well if all fails I guess I'm gonna tare down bank 1 and check  the cam allocation and the actuator for proper assembly but I hope I dont have to.v

Yes the locking tool only locks the exhaust cam. I did however replace the wear pads on both banks. I do recall the piston and the spring but not fully coming apart and I know the 0 ring on one side is opposite to the other side. bank 1 o ring the bottom and bank 2 0 ring on the top as far as I remember. Hopefully the DME just needs a reset.

I definitely did check and re-check cam to cam allocation before closing it up when doing the solenoid. Just playing devils advocate. I'll reset DME and drive it and scan it tomorrow and keep my fingers crossed. thanks again v

Hmm...so you're still hopeful...thats good. You think the DME just needs to be reset? Quick question:

Is there anything else that would cause the -17 deviation?

ie. If the timing was off by a tooth or roller between the cams would that cause my problem? (hope the answer to that is no.)

thanks v

OK, Finally got back to re-timing bank 1. Just to recap Bank 1 was at -15 Deviation and was determined bank 1 slipped timing. Re-timed bank 1 and replaced chain tensioner. Set it.... bang on ...checked it with my little puck and put my cam lock tool on it and it all lined up perfectly. Spun the crank a million times re-checked still bang on. Re-assembled everything(by now you know where it's going right?) started her up... 20 min warm up or more. Bank 1 is now at -17 deviation......2 degrees worse.(AAhhhhhh.....)Bank 2 still remains at 0. Shut it down and re-checked the timing on Bank 1 and it still is bang on....so slipping.Now I didn't drive it ....it is still up on the stands, didn't clear the CEL. I don't know if driving it and putting it under load would make a difference....I doubt it. Does this mean my cam to cam allocation is off. I can't wrap my head around it! Now what???? Thanks V

OK I'll check it out, thanks again, V

Thanks JFP,  so where does it actually go? It seems to fit at the top where the filter attaches to but I've been reading it goes on the bottom of the plastic filter carrier ...if so does it just sit on the bottom or is supposed to be attached. Do I have to buy another oil filter cover/canister/carrier.....what ever its called! . thanks v

Hi All, Went to replace oil filter and a rubber 'grommet connecter' came out with the filter. It's a round rubber grommet with a spring... goes between filter and intake/out-take. Just want to be sure that it just pushed back up into the tube where it came from, no special attaching required. 99 Boxster Base Thanks V

OK Thanks V