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OK....Ahsai your a genius!! I reset the DME and lo and behold. Bank 1 is +3 Bank 2 0. Drove for about an hr and no CEL so far. Now when I checked it before driving, it was solid 3 and 0 no fluctuation. After driving for an hr or so I checked it again and Bank 1 was fluctuating between 3 and 4 for the deviation, Bank 2 was steady at 0..I did replace the IMS so I'm not sure what thats about. I also may have a pending code for o2 sensors on both banks. What do you think. I added pix of fuel trims as well. Thanks so much for hanging with me and helping out! V

Well if all fails I guess I'm gonna tare down bank 1 and check  the cam allocation and the actuator for proper assembly but I hope I dont have to.v

Yes the locking tool only locks the exhaust cam. I did however replace the wear pads on both banks. I do recall the piston and the spring but not fully coming apart and I know the 0 ring on one side is opposite to the other side. bank 1 o ring the bottom and bank 2 0 ring on the top as far as I remember. Hopefully the DME just needs a reset.

I definitely did check and re-check cam to cam allocation before closing it up when doing the solenoid. Just playing devils advocate. I'll reset DME and drive it and scan it tomorrow and keep my fingers crossed. thanks again v

Hmm...so you're still hopeful...thats good. You think the DME just needs to be reset? Quick question:

Is there anything else that would cause the -17 deviation?

ie. If the timing was off by a tooth or roller between the cams would that cause my problem? (hope the answer to that is no.)

thanks v

OK, Finally got back to re-timing bank 1. Just to recap Bank 1 was at -15 Deviation and was determined bank 1 slipped timing. Re-timed bank 1 and replaced chain tensioner. Set it.... bang on ...checked it with my little puck and put my cam lock tool on it and it all lined up perfectly. Spun the crank a million times re-checked still bang on. Re-assembled everything(by now you know where it's going right?) started her up... 20 min warm up or more. Bank 1 is now at -17 deviation......2 degrees worse.(AAhhhhhh.....)Bank 2 still remains at 0. Shut it down and re-checked the timing on Bank 1 and it still is bang on....so slipping.Now I didn't drive it ....it is still up on the stands, didn't clear the CEL. I don't know if driving it and putting it under load would make a difference....I doubt it. Does this mean my cam to cam allocation is off. I can't wrap my head around it! Now what???? Thanks V

OK I'll check it out, thanks again, V

Thanks JFP,  so where does it actually go? It seems to fit at the top where the filter attaches to but I've been reading it goes on the bottom of the plastic filter carrier ...if so does it just sit on the bottom or is supposed to be attached. Do I have to buy another oil filter cover/canister/carrier.....what ever its called! . thanks v

Hi All, Went to replace oil filter and a rubber 'grommet connecter' came out with the filter. It's a round rubber grommet with a spring... goes between filter and intake/out-take. Just want to be sure that it just pushed back up into the tube where it came from, no special attaching required. 99 Boxster Base Thanks V

OK Thanks V

Just for clarification what do I need to ask them to do? v

Hi Loren, What actually needs to be programmed and who can do it? Also, I do not have the key codes that come original w car...are they needed to reprogram? thanks v

Hi, Thanks for that thread, will give it a try. Seems no additional reprogramming was needed on the earlier MY's. Do you remember if you had to reprogram anything using a PWIS or PS2? thanks again v

Was considering a 996 cluster upgrade for my 1999 Boxster base. There is some confusion as to whether the cluster needs to be reprogrammed to work in the boxster. I know mileage correction is necessary but there's talk about adding Vin # and enabling the volt and oil pressure gauges bla...bla. Some mention of Palo Alto Speedometer reprogramming but not sure what they need, I don't have original key codes... some say it is needed to reprogram the cluster. Any thoughts? thanks v

Well thats what I was thinking. Purchased a different one anyway. thanks v

Hi, Was going to purchase a used 2000 C2 cluster from eBay. Pic shows the fuel gauge as full. Is this normal when disconnected , seller said it remains at last point when disconnected. All other pix read below empty line. Skeptical! thanks v

OK thanks,I was using pelican as a reference and they have them listed backwards. v

OK I'll do my best with scavenge pump. A little confusion w part number and tensioner. I'm replacing the tensioner located on Bank 1 side and accessed from the bottom not the side as in bank 2 ...correct? This is called the IMS tensioner? Is there an updated tensioner with a pre-tension spring or is that for a 911. Sorry want make sure I'm replacing correct one for chain noise. I guess I have to time the bank 1st and replace the tensioner afterwards because I can't lock the crank and cam down the way it is now ….correct?.v

OK....so it looks like that is the problem.....the timing. It looks like 7 or more degrees on the pic dosen't it!! The tensioner I would replace (because of the loss of timing and the chain rattle) would be the the IMS tensioner as mentioned (maybe getting weak or worn). Just confirming. I had hard time getting the scavenge pump back in last time. Is it ok to back a few of the cam cover bolts out(near to the pump) without the risk of breaking the seal on the cam cover creating a leak. What do you think?  OK I'll give it a try. See what happens!! Thanks V

If you shifted the grooves counter clockwise to line up where the arrows are in the pic below(stock photo) that would be where my timing is now for Bank 1.

Just to clarify. 

OK...so good news I guess...you were correct in checking the timing ....it did move again. Cam is rotated too far counterclockwise if that would confirm a negative deviation value. Does the oil need to be drained to pull the scavenge pump and replace the tensioner? (probably so) would be easier to leave oil in, adjust timing,replace tensioner and start it up. Does having 0 degrees deviation insure the cams are timed correctly? The pictures posted show the 'puck' inserted on the exhaust cam, if you look closely you'll see my scribed line and see how much it's off(does this represent 7.5 degrees?) with the seam. The other pic shows the locking tool and how far it's off from the treaded bore where the bolt goes. I assume the tensioner I'm replacing is the one on Bank 1 located underneath the scavenge pump. I don't plan on pulling the cam cover so I won't be able to check the links or dimples on the cams. I'm going to go for just a re-time then lock down the cam and replace the tensioner on Bank 1 side (cause I guess that's why I may be losing the timing....twice now) and see if my deviation gets straightened out.

Also, is the tensioner the IMS tensioner Part #: 996-105-180-59. Thanks Again V

Was just doing some Boxster meditation and thought of something while waiting to get the car up on stands again. The timing did already slip once already on bank 1. I do notice a sound that could be chain rattle on start up. Sort of sounds like a diesel engine on start up and immediately goes away. I'm thinking if Bank 1 did slip again maybe the cause is a failing tensioner.  Is what i'm describing chain rattle?? Thanks V

I'll give durametric a shout. v

Hi, There wasn't an option for actual cam angle under 'engine" or 'actual values' nothing to monitor misfires either I don't have a drop down menu for DME... am I missing something? is it possible its called something else? v

OK..lot of info...first off how do I plot the cam angle...would be interested in that.. Yes I did use blue Loctite...don't think I turned it over 6 times. I'd be lucky if the timing just slipped that would be an easy fix but I'm doubtful. If my cam is off by 7.5 degrees how does that translate to what lines up with cam cover seams....is it noticeable or microscopic? Thanks again v