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vza

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Posts posted by vza

  1. 2008 Boxster...I wanted to check Variocam solenoids because my Boxster dosen't seem to have as much power as it should. When activating the cams with Durametric there wasn't any change in the engine note. When I activated valve lift I did hear a change in the engine. No CEL's... Is there anything I'm missing? Update....I just went for a test drive and seems everything is normalo(almost] I'll attribute it to new coils and plugs and new altenator.. I have a CEL for ambient temp ...car had front impact so I think it's the sensor in the bumper. There were many faults in the durametric having to do with voltage issues I cleared them hoping they had just popped up cause I had a bad altenator. Thanks V

  2. Hi,I have some results from a compression test :   4 263     1 260

                                                                                        5 269     2 265

                                                                                        6 270     3 260

     

    From what I've read these numbers seem high...but they are less than 10% apart. Thanks V

  3. Did the best I could adding coolant with vac sys. I wasn't able to completely remove air from the hose when priming it with coolant so some air got in the system. (air bubble in coolant pick up hose)I ran the car at idle for half hour got a blinking light for low coolant kept revving and adding coolant with the bleeder valve open couldn't get the light to stop. Another thing .....my temp gauge didnt budge and heater is blowing cool air. Then my AOS failed....bellowing white smoke. Ugh.

  4. Can be a lot of things. On my '99 I thought it was the bulb, swapped one out still had the flickering problem, then swapped the starter(for halogens) still had the problem. Then I opened up the casing where you replace the bulbs and took a closer look. Almost all the wiring insulation had cracked off the wires leaving bare metal to short out intermittently. I had to rewire the headlight assembly. Good luck. V  PS Could also be the light switch .....replaced that as well....was trashed and broken to little bits on the insde.

  5. Just for peace of mind after a potential mistake.... I introduced some compressed air thru the overflow tank to force out residual coolant when Flushing. Four hoses were disconnected at the time and coolant came rushing out. Now I'm reading you can damage head gaskets and seals and so on if you over pressurize...considering the system was open(disconnected hoses) I'm assuming I didn't cause any serious damage. Thanks V

  6. Well of course its never that easy. Attached my vac.tool(its a knockoff from ebay) Somehow I can't draw vacuum on the coolant sys. I'm I missing something here? Did same in video except going off the expansion tank in engine bay. All hoses reattached and clamped, valve nice and tight in expansion tank. I removed the tool and attached shop air and plugged suction hole and it drew vacuum......it just doesn't work when attached to expansion tank. I had my compressor up to 120psi and just shut it down and connected to venturi. Should I have left it on so it would just kick in while connected to venturri.....didnt think I needed that much compressed air but maybe thats what my problem was. Thoughts?

     

     

  7. OK....so to the next project. 08 Box Recently took it out for a drive engine overheated needle normal then suddenly pinned to right. Shut down immediately let it cool drove it home where it overheated again....shut done immediately. Then....the temp gauge stopped working(didn't move anymore) replaced the coolant temp sensor ....now it moves but the car never warms up(let it sit for 1/2 hr needle gets between 10-11 o'clock) No hot air blows from the air vent with temp thermostat on high. What gives ?? Stuck closed thermostat? Was going to drain the system ....planning on replacing thermo and water pump BUT wanted to do a compression test to even see what health the engine is in before spilling $$$. Can't get it to operating temp for the compression test. Thanks Vince

  8. Ok so I got my reman Bosch alternator. The pulleys look the same on new as old but act differently. They both have a plastic covers which I think means they are a free wheel lock pulley. The old pulley turns the stator one way (not forward and backwards)if I stop the pulley the stator continues to turn(guess thats when its free.) The new pulley seems to turn the stator both ways ...forward and back and does NOT allow the stator to continue to rotate when stopped with your hand.(not free). I assume the free wheel mechanism engages at a higher rpm and the pulley is bad on my old one as well.V

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