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Posts posted by vza

  1. Well....Got rid of exhaust leaks,Installed new MAF ...no stalls at start up....no misfires on 4-5 or 6 anymore....no o2 codes. NOW I'm getting misfires on 1-2 and 3 which I never got before.Codes are as follows:





    Misfires on 1-2 and 3 Emission relevant.  Can I drive to a mechanic or should I flatbed it?? Fuel trim bouncing around Bank 1  -0.8 to -1.6  Bank 2  0.08 to 1.6 that was using Torque Light. Got some other strange Codes with torque light Cam Shaft Pos A plausable BMW. Don't know what the Fuel trim should be....does this mean one bank is rich and the other lean?? Any good indies in Northern Bergen County NJ?? Thanks V

  2. OK...more info. Swapped out plugs for OEM, and noticed 1 plug in bank 2 looked as if it were never installed, pristine, leads me to believe no gas or spark is getting to the cylinder(dah... didn't note which cylinder it was,noticed after the fact). Found 2 leaks in the exhaust, 1 where end of cat is clamped to muffler pipe(just need to tighten the clamp) the other is a small hole in the cat right at the O2 sensor seam, Bank 2. Started it up with ruff running at first but sounded ok after a minute...revved a bit and got a misfire/pop sound but no CEL. Checked Code reader and got a P0130 and P0150 pending for the 02 pre cats. Compression test as follows:
    Bank 1 145/150/150 starting with Cyl closet to front.
    Bank 2 195/195/180 starting with Cyl closet to front. At first I thought this wasn't that bad considering there close relative to the banks. But not too sure. What next?? Thanks V
  3. I have the same issue. Misfire codes on 4-5-6. Cleared codes now have pending codes as the same. This is after replacing Bank 2 Solenoid...Bank 1 lost timing but was re-timed. Both banks timed, New AOS, IMS,RMS,Fly,Clutch, now I can't drive it!! Ran better with disconnected MAF so I'm going to try a new one. Started a thread which explains all. Thanks V


  4. I checked the electrical connectors for bank 2 which I did have off at one point ...they were good. Checked for vacuum leaks, was able to tighten up the tubes going to plenem, leads going to correct plugs. Car was idling ruff ...lots of stalls, low idle 500 rpm's. Then it remained running at about 1000rpm's or so. Removed oil cap w no change,removed AOS tube....stalled. AOS is new. Disconnected MAF and car ran better, revved it sounded good. Didn't run good when re-connected, heard a sound like hitting a spoon on a pot when revved. I assume a misfire. No CEL, I have a weak batt so many times I have to do a quick charge to start, so previous CEL's were cleared. Put code reader on although there was no CEL and there were pending misfires on 4-5-6 and emission relevant but CEL never came on! I'm stumped at this point. I might try swapping out the IRIDIUM plugs to OEM. I did not gap the plugs ,from what I understand they are pre-gapped .8 mm. Don't have a durametric so can't read Cam Deviation. It sounded and revved better w/o MAF but I don't know if I want to start replacing everything and chasing my tail unless I'm sure. I did have the snorkel out and cleaned it on the outside, I did touch the MAF with my finger to see if it was dirty. Then of course read not to touch it. Please chime in. Again, I'm concerned mostly with the possibility of bending valves when I was running it with lost timing but I'm really thinking it is a different issue now. thanks v

  5. Yes I did finally get a reading on the dipstick before I started the engine. The timing did indeed slip, was off on bank 1 where the noise was. Was not a pleasant sound,,thought maybe it was the tappets so I ran the engine with some revs to pump up the tappets(idle only with some revving). Then realized the timing slipped.Reset the timing, fired it up and sounded fine ..noise gone BUT..idled up to temp thru a blinking CEL then it changed to a solid CEL. Codes were;


    Po 304-5 and 6

    Po 150

    Confusing why it's showing misfire on cyl 4 5 and 6 when the noise and timing issue was on cylinders 1 2 and 3 (bank 1). If I bent anything up shouldn't it be misfiring on bank 1? This is making me hopeful that maybe I didn't cause any head damage by running the engine with the tapping noise thinking maybe I had to pump up the tappets. I installed NGK IRIDIUM plugs should I switch to OEM plugs, I'm going to double check coil pack connections maybe I crossed them but I don't think the wire length would allow that. I also replaced the 10w-40 with 0w-40. The Po150 code is o2 for bank 1. Any idea where to go from here? Please chime in. v

  6. Hi All, 99 boxster base. Just buttoned up the engine after replacing chain ramps and vario solenoid, RMS,IMS,AOS. Well.. now I have a noticeable tick /tap which sounds like its coming from the cylinder head. I also never got any oil reading on the dipstick after adding almost 8 quarts of oil....where did it go? I ran the engine on and off for about 5 mins. Was afraid it might be a timing issue but was meticulous in checking and rechecking cam position and allocation so I'm hesitant to let it run for fear of doing any damage.(if it's not done already) Used Castrol 10w-40 synth blend. Very upset ….hope I didn't totally bend my engine all up. Any thoughts very much appreciated. thanks v

  7. Hi, Doing my clutch and new DM flywheel on 99 boxster base.Few questions.

    Torque for flywheel factory manual says 18 ft lbs + 90 degrees Bentley says 19+120 degrees think I'm gona go w factory manual..???

    Torque for 3 bolts for throw out bearing guide tube Bentley has nothing factory manual says 26 ft lbs I went with this and used Loctite wicking threadlock

    Factory manual says only grease input spline does anything else need to be greased in there??

  8. Well ..feel a little more confident. Removed my cams today and found timing was off between them as I suspected.(1 tooth on the exhaust)The chain was not set up correctly with the dimples as well. Some pics of cams and badly worn ramps. Some questions.

    How does the pic of the lifter look....looks good to me? 

    Torque specs for: solenoid to actuator ?

                                    Actuator to Cam Housing ?

                                    Cam Cover 9.5

                                    Bearing Saddles 7.5

                                    Sprocket 10 + 10% so 11.5 (I read it didn't do the math)

    Is it necessary to use loctite on all the bolts? They seem to have a green coating on them. If so green wicking?

    I imagine I should do the other bank considering the shape of rails on bank 2(also intake notch was not at 3 o'clock) 

    I tested the solenoid with 12v the pin was pushed out only about a 16th of an inch then it started smoking??? Had oil in it as well.




  9. Hi all, at this point my heads spinning. Working on 99 boxster base. After 2 P253 tools and a 9216 tool(after market knockoff) that I wasn't able to drop in to check my timing I decided to discard the tools and eyeball the exhaust cams. The cam lock tool(half size one) however did go in and the exhaust cams did line up w the case seams. I did however notice that bank 1 intake cam was not at 3 o'clock at TDC compression and not at 9 o'clock TDC exhaust, they are 2 and 8 o'clock respectively. Well I ignored this fact for a moment thinking how can both banks be out. I went ahead locked bank 2 w cam lock tool and removed the cam cover(needed to replace solenoid). With further investigation I found 1 marked link on the cam chain(the other isn't visible w engine in car)and noticed the dimple it's supposed to be lined up with is off by 1 tooth. I'm now assuming I couldn't get these tools to drop in cause my cams are off. Am I correct in assuming that the cams on BOTH banks are out and need to be removed and timed. As far as I know I drove the car 2 hrs after the purchase in this condition. Unless the timing was lost after my IMS replacement. How is it possible the cams are off relative to each other and to the crank. Please tell me I'm wrong. help!!! vin

  10. One step at a time...Anyone have any ideas as to why I CAN fit my cam lock tool from LN engineering(the one that just locks the exhaust cam) into the cam and bolt it down(both banks at TDC respectively) and my P253 cam timing tool from SIR CAN NOT be slotted in and bolted down on either bank at TDC? If the slot is lining up with one why isn't it lining up with the other. This is 2nd tool SIR sent me. 

  11. OK...Got my new IMS cover bolts.... torqued them in 90 inch lbs. with my inch Lbs torque Wrench(thanks JFP). Got a replacement cam timing tool from SIR tools which I still can't get to go on. Seems like it drops in but can't bolt it to the case on either bank. All though the cam locking tool from LN IMS toolset drops in(exhaust Cam only) and bolts right up. This is odd to me that one would fit and not the other. When I compared both tools the raised groove on the LN tool seemed narrower than the groove on the SIR tool leading me to believe it's too wide and will not fit into the cam groove.... I marked 3 of the 4 cams w nail polish (4th had the lock tool in place) and after turning the engine 720 degrees everything was lined up and turned another 720 bank 2 intake wasn't aligned but the exhaust on the same bank was good.Bank 1 was good. Now what can that mean....I lost the timing between the intake and exhaust.??? I will check the nail polish with my finger....was thinking I my have painted on some oil and the polish my have NOT adhered to the metal. I still have to take Bank2 cam cover off to replace the solenoid so I'll recheck the timing after thats done. I'm thinking when its all buttoned up I may flatbed it to an indie Porsche place and have them check the timing if I'm not sure about it. Any thoughts... and can the timing be done by an indie guy by adjusting the cams by taking the scavenge oil cover off?? Thanks V

  12. I don't think I distorted it and as far as evenly..... was a little off 1 or 2 mm here and there and it arrived what appears to be 13mm....I'm not using the $700.00 tool....the car was 2800.00. Any ideas.....should I just get another and give a try??

    As far as the IMS....I got the bearing in, spiroloc in good. I got the cover on and 'snap' the cover bolt broke, I brought the new torque wrench back and  I guess I'll get a better one??, I felt I didn't even exert near enough to snap it and the torque wrench never clicked. Any experience with these bolts snapping. I did manage to work the other half of the bolt out of the case w no damage to anything. Ugh Instructions really make it look easier....lesson in patience....thanks to JFP for all your responses!!

  13. Thanks, I understand that it has to be 13mm BUT it's getting there that I'm concerned with...if its pressed in unevenly like 10mm on one side 13mm on another and 11mm across from that.....etc. If I finally get it all at 13mm am I good... or is the RMS twisting out of shape and not good anymore by not having the entire seal pressed in evenly all the way around till I reach 13mm. BTW how do I know I have a new PTFE design I just had EBS Racing look it up and send the part I believe it was manufactured by Corteco. Thanks V

  14. Hi All, I pulled my RMS  and installed the new seal. My question is I can't seem to get a good eye on my pocket ruler to see if it's 13mm all the way around. Seems it might 12 on one side 13 on another …..just not uniform all the way around during the press in.. I can continue to fuss with it....get my 3''pvc pipe tool on it and just really try and meticulously watch the depth...now is it ok to just manipulate the tool so I eventually get it even and ARRIVE at 13mm all the way around OR does it need to be pressed in on the same plane millimeter by millimeter the whole way down?(so one side is never higher than the other) Hope my question is clear. 

    I also went ahead and drove my new IMS in and the hardest part was installing the spiroloc. How can I be certain the spiroloc is fully seated and installed correctly. I can get a small dental pick on it and give a tug to insure it's locked in. Just being a little paranoid. Any feedback appreciated.V

  15. Well, I found the 'glitter' in the IMS shaft (stuck to a magnet) then out of curiosity I ran the magnet through the drained engine oil and didn't get anything seemed strange to me....nothing in the filter either. Well I'm going to cross my fingers and proceed. Installing an RMS and I've read both to install completely dry or use Curil T on the outside diameter....which is it? Thanks V

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