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Happy Holidays All, Installed short shift kit 99 boxster. A few things.....noticed the metal covers that house the bushings which accept the circlip are notched but didn't see any notches on the shift assembly. They both went in fine although one I had to apply a fair amount of pressure squeezing it in to get the circlip on. The circlip was also very tight and had to be forced on w a screwdriver. The shifter shifts fine but I'm finding laterally from side to side it doesn't spring back to center when in neutral. In hind site I'm thinking maybe I should have removed one of the washers that go between the metal cover and the bushing to free it up a bit. I still might be able to do it through the boot cover. Also, I only installed the set screw and jam nut on one side but there really wasn't any play to pick up anyway. Thanks v

Think I answered my own question.....it goes to the right, to center the shifter....Confirm if you feel like it! V

Hi All, Gona upgrade to a short shifter 99 Boxster. The new shifter has the bend in the shifter leaning towards the driver (L) side. In some pix and videos it looks like it should be leaning to the R side. Which is it.... or is it a matter of preference? Read some threads where you just un bolt it and turn it around. Thanks V

OK so if I get the 6 x 40 amp it will be plug and play for adding the rear speakers. Correct?

I would start with the most simple 1st which would be timing. I think mine at some point was were yours is at after doing some work on it. I thought it ran great and thought for sure my timing was not the issue. Sure enough …..it turned out my timing in one of the banks slipped. V 

Fixed ....Window stop bumper was in the  lower (incorrect) notch on the rail.

Hi All, 99 Boxster Base. My R window makes a knocking sound when its down and happens when closing the door. Upon inspection the front part of the window is hitting the front top "cable wheel" of the regulator. Is there a piece of foam or rubber missing from the top of the regulator. I can probably cure it by cementing a small piece of rubber to the top mount to avoid glass to metal contact. Thanks V

99 Boxster Base So after much work and money. New Batt, AOS,MAF,Plugs,Fuel Filter,Air Filter,Gas Cap,Oil Cap o-ring,Cleaned TB, Timing,New VarioCam Solenoid, Repaired DME, I'm getting a CEL with P1123 P1125 codes every 600 miles or so for rich fuel on both banks. Checked as best I could for vacuum leaks, Fuel regulator I think is within spec for vacuum Maybe on the low side. Any thought as to what I do next. Car is running good says I'm getting 26 MPG on the H'way which is hard to believe. Out of ideas!!! V

Well there was some improvement ....all the drop links were shot. I mean some said they had remarkable improvement but I'm not feeling it. At some point everything will probably get changed out. V

Hi All, 99 Boxster Base.I replaced my rear Track Arms today (thats what the dealership said was the source of my clunking noise along with drop links) I was surprised when I noticed the new TRW booted joint on the arm was easily moved around with my fingers, I thought it would be much more tighter than the old. The old joint was just a little easier to move around. Just wondering maybe I didn't need to do it. Any thoughts?? Thanks Vince

Hi All,99 Boxster Base. Need to replace my trailing arms (rear) and all drop links. EPS or TRW thats the question. Any preference? V

Hi, No way this 996 cover is going on my Boxster top unless Im doing something wrong. The 2 holes are for the spikes I assume, they are way wider than the cover. Any thoughts Thanks V

Leave it to me!!!....Thanks V

OK....how do I insure I dont get air in it when doing the bleed? Thanks V

Hi All, Just confirming that I CAN replace my brake fluid by using the Motive Pressure Bleeder on my 99 Boxster Base WITH TC (Traction Control), I've heard conflicting info regarding having to open valves in control unit w PTS2 and then some saying if you're bleeding after the control unit its fine. Thanks V

OK ....well here's an update. Upon closer investigation I didn't over torque the lug....I believe it was previously weakened and damaged already. The previous owner had 7mm spacers on the rear wheels and didn't upgrade to extended lug studs so the existing stock stocks were 7mm too short and just about catching the bore in the hubs. I did manage to clean the one bore out with a tap. I then removed the spacers and got good torque at 96 Ft Lbs on all lugs. Did auto cross last week without knowing this info .....ouch!! V

Okay..... I dodged the 1st bullet and didn't have to drill. I removed all the lugs with the exception of the one that was spinning and wedged a small pry bar between the spacer and drum pressed down on the bottom of the wheel with my feet and got my impact on it and zipped it out .....5 minutes. BUT....the 1st 3 treads on the bore are stripped I can't get the bolt started. The remaining 80% or more of the bore is good. Would running a chase through the bore be okay.....dont really want to replace the hub at this point. As long as I can torque it down to spec I imagine I'm good.....V

Its loose already....spinning in the wheel.

Well.... I painted some lugs and when replacing one my awful torque wrench from Harbor Freight didn't click(not the 1st time)....first off Im returning 2 of them on Monday. The lug/stud is just spinning and I can't back it out. Any tips as to how to get it out? Thanks V

OK ...When I say twisted I mean it looks torqued to one side at the end closet to the front I guess where its attached to the frame.....I'll look at the other side see what it looks like. Would that cause a clunk sound?? V

OK Thanks....now for my next fix.....I get this awful knocking sound when going over potholes/bumps etc....front and back....more in the back. Struts seem ok....I know one of the strut bumpers rotted off one of the fronts. The rear ball joints in the control arms looked ok. The bushing at the end of the 'fork' looked somewhat twisted but not torn....not sure if its should be that way. Any ideas?? V

Any one know if a Cabrio hardtop cover will fit a Boxster hardtop?? Thanks V

Hi all, 99 Boxster Base. P1123...P1125 CEL's

Did fuel pressure test and results are:

Engine Off  3.3Bar

Idle: 3.1 Bar

Question, with engine off (after running and shut down) the fuel pressure was 2.6 Bars if I let it sit... it crept up to 3.4 Bars...... which is the accurate reading?

Also....when replacing the fuel rail cap on the schrader valve I over torqued it with my cheapo torque wrench and popped the top of the cap and scored the top of the fuel rail with the bottom of the cap totally trashing the cap. Is this an issue I have to worry about. The valve seemed good and didn't leak...only a slight score or scratch at the base. Can I just replace the cap and move on. Thanks V

Might be the overflow for coolant expansion. I believe I had some coolant exit from there when I didn't fully burp my coolant.(air in the lines)V

Old post sorry!!