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Everything posted by BobieMac
You really saved me a lot of time and banged---up hands with this one. I'm a tall guy with large hands, and I wouldn't have been able to get my switch out without this approach, the set screws were glued in tight. Many thanks, again.
At the end of last year, I drove the car from ID to NC with two quick stalls/misfires going over a mountain in Montana. The rest of the trip, it was perfect. I had serviced it before leaving my parents' home there, as it had spent a good bit of time in storage. Now, when I'm on the road, it will occasionally completely shut down the engine. I roll to the side of the road, then can get it started after four or five tries (it always cranks). Engine temp really makes no difference. Occasionally, I can kill it immediately if I engage the a/c compressor at idle. What I've replaced so far: Idle Air Control Valve MAF Fuel Pump Fuel Pump Relay Coil/O2/injection relay (rear panel) DME relay (rear panel) Battery (my stepdad had the wrong one in there) Accessory drive/serpentine belt Air filter Crank position sensor I did locate an old mouse nesting spot between the rear trunk carpet and the firewall (near where the coolant hoses go through). That's all been cleaned up and I couldn't spot any chewed wiring, etc. Interesting development with this car today. I went to start it up to point it the other way in the garage. When I went to position 1 with the key (where I always pause to glance at the oil level), a rapping noise started coming from the area of the right rear wheel well..."rat-a-tat-tat-tat-tat-tat". Like muffled automatic rifle fire. As it was happening, the cluster lights were flickering. I shut it off, then tried again. It didn't happen again, but it did take ten or so attempts to start the car (it did crank every time). Once I got it going, textbook idle with no problems. I engaged the a/c compressor, idle adjusted as designed. I've made room for ignition switch replacement gymnastics (for this 6' 3" guy) tomorrow, and will hook up the laptop (Durametric) as well. In the meantime, any thoughts or ideas are more than welcome. Thanks, all.
Thank you for this! I am 6' 3" and was having fits under there. I removed the driver's seat and it still wasn't enough. The screws are in there tight and I had no good approach angle on them...not to mention what I was doing do my neck. I'm going to give this a try tomorrow.
I was working on the front trunk latch and switch today, on my 986. The light had not been coming on when the lid was opened. Once I was in there, I found a small pine needle lodged in the microswitch. My dear dad used to park it outside under the trees often. ? Pulled it out with forceps, cleaned everything out and shot the switch with Deoxit. All is well. Thanks for all of your info on that topic. ???? Happy new year to all of you.
Hi, guys. Has anyone had experience with this one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-Boxster-986-Diagnostic-Scan-Tool-Fault-Code-Reader-iCarsoft-POR-V1-0/292666626068?hash=item44244a5014:g:8VIAAOSwVj5bZFVW
Thank you, Richard. I’ll try to track someone down. The needle is pegged at the top of the scale. Maybe the connections on the back were eventually affected by heat. Dad used to leave the car out in the hot sun quite a lot.
1999 986 | 2.5L | Manual | US | LHD Hiya. I wanted to see if you guys might have any ideas as to why my analog speedometer is no longer functioning. I do get a good reading from the digital one. Any thoughts are appreciated.