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Heidster

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About Heidster

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    Contributing Member

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Connecticut
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 996C2 Coupe
  • Former cars
    1972 Opel 1900 Rallye, 1978 Saab Turbo, 1986 Merkur XR4Ti, 1981 911SC Coupe
  1. I just had a clutch replaced on my '99 996 C2 - 6 speed. FYI my car was an early build from Jan 1998 so the engine should have exploded by now...statistically speaking. @ only ~48K mi (without warning) the clutch pedal had a funny vibration and seemed too easy to push and slow to release. It also didn't have a reliable "catch point". It ended up being some bent fingers that was causing the disc to be at a slight angle in catch and release. There was not that much left material-wise on the clutch either. I was a bit surprised as I thought I'd get ~100K. The real reason for this post is the original RMS was in fine shape (but replaced with the latest) and never leaked and the IMS bearing was replaced with an LN retrofit bearing. The original bearing was in almost perfect condition. Seal was intact, could not feel any play. I had an oil analysis done last year with all the readings normal. I'd say for ~$20 it might catch metals from the bearing and give you a warning before it fails. But...I will sleep better. Or at least another 60,000 miles for this clutch.
  2. If you're changing spark plugs you've removed the mufflers and pulled the coils out so its just pulling out the old tubes and prepping/inserting the new ones. Maybe an extra 1/2 hour of time.
  3. Here is a pic of old tube, on the right, with 17MM long socket improvised removal tool. On the left is the new tube with O-rings gooped up with the special Porsche grease. Insertion is 2 step. 1st is just two thumbs and a bit of force and you'll feel it pop in. Then find a 27MM socket as it fits the face of the tube perfectly. I got 5 of 6 in with just more hand pressure, the 6th just took a whap of a rubber hammer. Thanks to all those before me that provided info for this fix. Time will tell if the leaking stops.
  4. Just to add a few more bits of info for those thinking about doing this fix. My car is a 1999 C2 6Spd actually built in (gasp!) Jan '98. Original motor, no other issues: ~45K miles. So the O-rings were the "original" design that was upgraded later. As far as symptoms of leaks you may notice oil gathering at the bottom of the Cam covers (gravity does this) as in my above pic. It stars by just looking a bit dirty. Eventually I was getting drips to the garage floor. So time for action. I also noticed some oil on the inside of a few of the tubes. Most likely from the smaller/inner O-ring. So if, when changing plugs, you see oil on the spark plug socket extentions...it's probably those inner rings. See above pics as 2 of them were not seated correctly. As far as extracting the tubes...I used both Izzy's "tool" and had a 1/2" 17MM long socket that had the perfect diameter as the tubes taper down to the spark plug. I haven't actually installed the new ones as some of the spark plug socket extensions (PN: 996.602.103.01 for up to '01) were a bit buggered up. I should get them today from Sunset Porsche. Those guys are great. Here's another tell-tale shot: I'll post more tips for the DIY's after the reassembly this weekend.
  5. If you see oil build-up here... Hmmm...I wonder why oil was leaking? I'd guess it was a "factory original" as I don't think previous owner(s) ever messed with the tubes. Looks like somebody messed up the tips on the coil extensions too. I guess I could have worse issues...glad Jeff @ Sunset is there to ship more parts. FYI the tubes themselves seem to be intact but for ~ $7/tube just change them along with new O-rings.
  6. I have a similar leak on the driver side cam sensor. Just last week I pulled out the collar, cleaned the surfaces and put some gasket-from-a-tube on all contact surfaces. May not last long. Thanks for the O-ring part #'s. I have a feeling I'll need them eventually.
  7. I put some GHL's on ~3 weeks ago. Initially I was a bit "underwelmed" with the sound, at least from inside the car. My benchmark was my old SC that had SSI's and a B&B single outlet muffler. It was a very nice tone inside the car. Not too loud but I enjoyed going through the gears for sure. A neighbor thought it was one on the best exhaust sounds he's ever heard whenever I drove by. Anyway, as far as the GHL's, there is a bit of boominess in the higher gears, hard throttle up to ~2400 RPM. But its really not that annoying as the payoff comes from 3000 on up. I still hear about 50% mechanical vs. 50% exhaust note. (the SC being ~2/3 exhaust and 1/3 mechanical.) As many have said...the sound may change as the get broken in. The 996 has more sound absorbing material than the early cars. This may explain my initial impressions. I'm sure people with cabs would experience more dbs and a different impression. I'd rather be on the quiet side for now. As for my install. ~5-6 hours total...rusty bolts/clamps = WD40, dremel tools, hammers and a hacksaw. I had to go to Home Depot for the longer hex bolts on the muffler brackets. (hope this does not effect re-sale $!!!) Anyway, I used new clamps for the tips as well as the sleeves that connect the outlet of the cats to the inlet of the mufflers. There could be a little gap between the pipes, maybe 1/4". I did not notice any diameter difference. I recall checking them with a caliper before assembly. I initially tightened the sleeves to the 34 lb/ft called for. One of them leaked slightly so I torqued them both to ~ 38 lb/ft...no leak. The above post suggesting aluminum foil is worth a try. Did you use new clamps? You might try some sort of exhaust sealant but this might cause a problem down the road when trying to dissasemble. Hope this helps. :lightbulb:
  8. Try this: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7067 I Haven't done it, but it's on my list of things to do.
  9. I had an '81 SC for 15 years. Fairly similar in issues. The bigger $ area is the engine. They are somewhat prone to head studs corroding then snapping. Not as much after the factory upgraded to epoxy coatings. (not sure what year that was of hand) Also the valve guide seals tend to wear. So you may see smoke after the engine is started or higher oil consumption. With 113K either the previous owner took care of them or they will happen eventually. Of course with a 20 YO car there can be a lot of things to look at. If the car was well treated it will minimize some things. Just get it to a reputable shop. For $2-300 they can do a good assessment. Hope this helps.
  10. I bought a '99 6-SPD Coupe with only ~36,000 mi. in June of this year. Was looking hard for a 993 but gave up as $ for them are more than an early 996. Clean car, never tracked. It was an early build, delivered ~ May '98. So, according to the odds, I may have more than a few strikes against me. I only have a few wet spotsaround the Variocam housings, nothing hits the floor. I still am a bit weary of what could happen. If/when it leaks I hope to be only looking at the ~$20+ seal and the labor to drop the transmission and reinstall it. I would think the chances of the "re-seal" lasting might be pretty good. Assuming the casting was not one of the "bad" ones. What perplexes me is why some 996's are requiring multiple engine replacements. You would think a "new" engine (w/upgraded casting) would pretty much solve the issue. Maybe it depends on the "source" of the engine. I would think if it was directly from Porsche that they would provide it with any enhancements learned throughout the years.
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