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Everything posted by ninedragons986
I was thinking to see if the fan turns on when idle and running hot. It should blow air from the passenger vent on the side. I think there is a power resistor in the circuit. Also, I think you should do a flush if none has been performed. It involve the letting the air out where the coolant is added. There is a ring under where the caps are that allows air to be released. This is the first summer for me and I see that the car heats up at stop lights a bit. I also noticed that it ran cooler with an oil change. Oh you need to have the front a bit higher to let the coolant to drain from the front of the car I saw someone say.....good luck.
Awesome. I will do that sir. Thanks!!!
97 boxster all stock. I used my key to unlock the car and now I got problems.... I am not sure but I think this is the part that needs to be replaced. I am getting two beeps and sometimes one. I fixed the center lock when I fixed the stick shift. I thought maybe the center glove box might be contributing to the problem but it is not. I am not sure if I need this: 1997 Porsche Boxster Base Convertible - Electrical - Switches, Motors, Relays, Fuses & Wiring - Door Switches, HVAC Motors, Relays, and Switches, Starters, Window Motors and Relays WWW.PELICANPARTS.COM Switches, Motors, Relays, Fuses & Wiring for 1997 Porsche Boxster Base Convertible: Door Switches, HVAC Motors, Relays, and Switches, Starters, Window Motors and Relays or This: 1997 Porsche Boxster Base Convertible - Electrical - Switches, Motors, Relays, Fuses & Wiring - Door Switches, HVAC Motors, Relays, and Switches, Starters, Window Motors and Relays WWW.PELICANPARTS.COM Switches, Motors, Relays, Fuses & Wiring for 1997 Porsche Boxster Base Convertible: Door Switches, HVAC Motors, Relays, and Switches, Starters, Window Motors and Relays
I used a tiny drill to remove the tabs. I bought new ones from the dealership. When they are installed I found it impossible to extract. Once the plastic is gone and you have not damaged the hole (use a much smaller bit), putting new ones was quite simple. I skuffed up the first one trying to be gentle. It is plastic just work it that...takes seconds.
I have the same problem but it is in the rear and thought it was the lower control arm. I changed it. Same. I am going to change out the control arm link. As for front stabilization my 986 does have vibration at high speeds so I will add new sway bar bushings and both drop links. On my truck a sway bar link was bad but I could not see it from inside the assembly. Once I changed the link all the vibration stopped. I noticed that much of my problem in the 986 seems to occur at low speed in the rear so it might be your drop links. That sway bar has a great deal to do with stability and vibration seems to point it out if it is coming from one side. I am going with the bushing mainly because it is the entire front end.
Hello, My shifter became loose then came apart as I was backing her up in the yard. Anyway, I found a nut had come off and the pin itself was out of the mechanism. Then I saw that the ball joint for the cable, at the bottom of the stick was also off. I ordered the alignment part but I wound up judging by eye where it needed to be for the cable adjustment. (I saw some playing with one on youtube it was really easy to work with. (So far me and the car have had no real difficulties with basic repairs). I realized that the existing washers where a bit worn so I replaced them with some nylon washers. These were much larger in diameter. I also got two star washers but use only one. I saw that the nuts had a locking pattern on them but decided to use one on the nut that had come off. I also added a bit of blue thread lock to it for my peace of mind. The reason I am showing all this is because I want to hopefully remove some apprehension in doing these small repairs. It took me a while before I was comfortable working on my vehicles, but I still get professional advice. The top and bottom requires an allen key and 18 crescent. I forgot the size for the allen bit it was large. Anyway, here are the photos .... ?
Just outstanding!!! Thanks so much.
For some reason my front drivers side speaker was going in and out then cut out completely. As a result I swapped out the speaker with another 4" speaker. I kept the existing plug and cut everything else out. I used the ring from the original to hold it down, but I cut small slots for the new speakers feet. Here are the photos but I did not make many notes. After I install the speaker I noticed that it did not work but did work with volume turned up high. I tested it with the other front jack before soldering it all together. I also add a dab of plastic glue on sides since there was no screw. I had a hack saw but did not use it. The mini dremel was cool. It might be worth noting that the red and yellow wires on the head unit needed to be reversed despite the diagram. Just look at the Crutchfield website and you will see it. I also swapped out the radio. I am going to sell it. It was a CDR-210. I am suspecting that my problem is the amp and that particular channel. Forgive the pictures I had shared it on my Facebook Story lol ?
· Model year ~ 1997 · Model/Engine ~ Boxster 2.5 · Transmission type ~ 5 speed · Interior color ~ Blue · Country specific information ~ USA Hello I have been looking for the information on the blue/white for the C harness all night, wire since I am also installing a Sony MEX-GS820BT. when I found this!!! This is the most helpful Thread so far. I have the 101 Projects for your Boxster and looked on Pelican with no definitive answer. THANKS Bill Lapp and Richard Hamilton !!!
Update: After replacing the missing Amber Trim I glue it down at the fin not the clips with Loctite plastic bonder. I had already glued the one I snapped off while changing the headlight on the other side at three points (It's fin was gone thanks to manhandling it). It has yet to come off btw. For the air-dam spoiler I noticed three "Expanding Rivet 5,0 X 11,5 99950749940" I believe that hold the trim on after inspecting one I realized it was not coming out by prying it. I attempted to tighten the barcket as best I could with the trim in place on the loose passenger side of the bracket (986 504 613 01 Item #4) this is the Allen bolt (item #6). It appears the institution of a pop rivet may protect the trim from leaving the bracket at high speed, but may prevent removal of the trim should I need to make adjustments or disassembly at another time. For now I will experiment with both solution before removing it to properly tighten the boot. I certainly want to have more options with the remaining plastic rivets. While I have made a temp fix, I have caused the driver's side not to come down flush with the body The final problem is the Airbag light. I replaced the battery with a Optima brand. I was getting a low voltage for the airbag system. I am not sure if this will help the computer to revert back to the indicator turning off or not, but the guys near me said they will assist me it that does not occur. I am waiting for the tool to remove the radio to get the code so I can use the radio. That is it for now. It might be worth mentioning my tiny ratchet did not do the trick as I expected. There is simply very little clearance or play for tightening.
I just got this 97 Boxster I love it, but I noticed a few minor issues. 1) The Air Dam is Loose on one side, 2) The mesh piece that goes in the Roll bar where your head has broken tabs, 3) The small Amber Headlight Corner Trim that is triangular flew off on the drivers side 4) The Radio needs a code and the airbag light is on due to the battery dying before I came to get it. (It starts fine now after a jump) 97 Boxster 986