acao

I had this problem for 3 years. It came to a head a few months ago when I was stranded twice in one day, need a good samaritan jump each time. Get it fixed. The dealer fixed mine for around $1000 and said the cable was pretty toasted. It's not alot of money compared to the possibility of being stranded somewhere without notice. Do you work? Have planes to catch? Does your family rely on you to pick up dinner on the way home? Do you drive with clients? See patients or go to court? Once you get it fixed, you'll be amazed at the peace of mind that comes with taking for granted that your car will start every time.

How do I disable the rear trunk light? At the track in the summer, I like to leave the rear trunk ajar between runs to help the heat leave. But, I don't like the light drawing power unnecessarily.

I have no idea how you did this. I had to remove the wheels and mufflers, and still cursed alot. At 40k, I had 1 coil with a cracked housing. It was originally at the rear driver's side. There's a brilliantly placed drain pipe that exits right above the coil there. I didn't have a spare ready so I moved it to the forward driver's side position so I could change it out more easily when it arrived. 1. Did those plugs and coils go 80k or did you have a change previously? 2. Did you notice any performance change?

Check out this month's issue of Excellence. They install an LSD into a 944. The particulars will obviously be different because its a different car, but the article is a good place to get an general overview of the process. If vaguely recall reading that factory LSD was either a 996 option, or available on the GT3's version of the same transmission. The parts catalog should show it.

[deleted per Loren's suggestion]

I believe it's totally not worth it to do an oil change at the dealership. Or at a quick lube place. If you think they're torquing every fastern to spec, think again. If you think they're putting exactly the fractional amount oil in, instead of overfilling to the next even liter, think again. If you think that they're inspecting everything on the service checklist, think again. You have one car to do, and you've marked off the whole afternoon. The more they can do, the more money they make. And oil changes aren't done by the most experienced tech in the shop either. 1. Download the service checklist from here. 2. Go to Harbor Freight, and for less than $150 you can get a jack, chocks, jack stands, metric sockets, a hex socket, a torque wrench, an oil filter wrench, and a 15 qt oil drain pan. 3. Go to an auto parts store and buy 10 qts of oil, for about $60. 4. Get online and buy the oil filter and crush ring. While you're at it, get a charcoal cabin filter and an engine air filter too, all for about $100. 5. Buy the Durametric for $250. 6. Do the oil change and change your filters yourself. Take your time, bring your computer to the garage or print the instructions. 7. While there, check things out. Get to know and appreciate the car. Leaks are easy to spot because they're shiny and moist where everything else is matte, dry, and dusty. All told, you've paid about $560 for the first service. You only buy the tools once. The next one will cost you only $160 in consummables. The last dealer quote I got for a 20k service was $750. Even the first DIY results in a financial win. It's not like if I had the dealer do it, I'd be any better off. You better believe I be on the ground retorquing everything and making sure they didn't cross thread things. Upgrade campaigns can be done during warranty work or for harder stuff. With my pair-of-catcher's-mitts sized hands, I've given up on bleeding the clutch, so I'll pay for that. When the suspension arm bushings go, I'll probably pay for that too. Ditto for engine mount, or clutch replacement. The frequency of that type of work, coupled with the difficulty, do not justify the cost or storage space for the tools. But, I've saved more than enough money doing my own oil changes and brakes to shell out every once in a while.

Either blade on the fuse is hot. Ground goes to the chassis. Aft of the fuse box is a suitable nut for the ground. If you lack either tiptronic or the rear wiper, those fuse slots will do.

I don't know what it is either. I tried reaching through the wheel well, approaching it from underneath, and nada. I don't exactly have short or fat arms either. I can certainly reach deep enough to touch the transmission housing, but it's that stretch upward that is giving me fits. Maybe next time.

Yep, all wheels were off. I even had the plastic undertray off. Not initially, but because when I pulled the rubber bleed valve cover off, I dropped it and it landed on the tray.

If anybody has any tips on how to bleed the clutch, I'd love to hear them. This past weekend, I flushed the brakes. Easy enough. Under the car, I could only just touch the clutch bleeder valve. After numerous tries of snaking my hand up either side of the coily thingy, I managed to get the drain tube onto the nozzle. But, once there, I could not get a wrench up there to turn. No room. It is my Excalibur. If Excalibur were embedded in a rock that I envision falling on my head. All the other brake lines gave up clear, bubble free fluid. I figure I'm not a horrible human for hoping I can get the clutch bled one out of every two times. On other notes from this weekend, I put the rear end on jackstands by raising the car via the rear subframe member. I lowered the car using the squarish castings where the engine halves meet. My car has not assploded as some predicted. I also replaced my locking lug bolts with regular ones. Come steal my factory wheels if you want, but I'll take that chance to get settled on 19mm sockets and not being stranded when the key cracks.

Looks just like mine, except I've got the clear markers and uncolored crests. Nice, enjoy.

Previous tire experience: Bridgestone RE010 (MX-5) Dunlop SP9000 (MX-5) Michelin Pilot Sport (M Coupe) Yokohama ES100 (M Coupe) Michelin Pilot Sport Rib (986S) Michelin Pilot Sport 2 (986S) Continental ContiSportContact 2 (997) The Conti's were on the inner wear bars at the rear, and had about 2/32" above the bar left on front. They tracked and handled well, but were very loud and very harsh. More than expected even for their state of wear. It's pretty consistent with what I've read. I've never driven Goodyear, but have heard very good things about the GS-D3 from drivers I believe. First impression, these Goodyears are quiet. Really quiet. The sidewalls seem responsive, yet very comfortable. In terms of ride comfort, they're alot like the Micheline PS2. Head-to-head with the PS2, the Goodyear weighs 1-2 lbs more per tire, but has 1/32" more tread (10/32 vs 11/32). Load capacity, heat, and contact patch sizes are the same. The Goodyear has a higher tire wear rating, but I have read that comparing this rating across brands is meaningless. N.B., the Tire Rack has a photo of the tread on these tires. It doesn't look anything like mine. For an accurate picture of the tread pattern, go to Goodyear's web site. So far, so good. The caveat is that it's always unfair to compare a new tire to a worn one. ANY new tire is going to feel alot better than a worn one. I'll update as time goes by and I put some DE laps on them.

This would bring me closer to shelling out for the NAV installation kit.

I did not take any pictures. The steps that are unique to mine don't really lend themselves to pictures (i.e. crimping RJ-11 ends). There's no "fork in the road" moment for a picture to resolve. There are lots of pictures of the fuse box area in other threads.