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Topless

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Everything posted by Topless

  1. Your car is running lean. Recheck all your fittings and connections related to the throttle body cleaning. Something may be loose, torn or broken causing a vacuum leak.
  2. A little background first: 98 Box 2.5L, 75k miles, tires PS2's 225/45/17Front, 255/40/17 rear, performance alignment Camber -.7 deg. Front, - 1.4 deg. rear, zero toe front and rear. Two years Auto-X / track experience. Last year in Oct. my rear tires were down to the wear bars, lap times were suffering a bit and I had a few spins on corner exit with snap oversteer on rough surfaces. The tires were actually 4 years old and I figured the rears were toast. Front tires were only 1/2 gone and still felt ok. I put new PS2 rubber on the rear and added a lower stress bar to reduce chassis flex. Now the rear of the car is completely predictable. I feel I can put the rear exactly where I want it with my right foot and no surprises. I am carrying higher speeds and some high 2nd gear turns are now moderate 3rd gear. So far so good. The problem: Now on downhill off camber turn in's and carousel turns she plows like nobody's business. I feel like I am crawling through these sections. Even if I really pitch the rear out the front just howls through. I am turning faster times. It just looks and feels really stupid when it plows. Possible solutions: A. Learn how to drive. :lol: B. Lose those front tires cuz they're 4 yr old hockey pucks. C. Add a front strut tower brace to balance front/rear chassis stiffness and precision. D. Fine tune the alignment. Anything I am missing here?? Your input is appreciated. The more track and Auto-X experience the better.
  3. Just get it up off the ground and have a look. Probably Fritz just forgot to tighten something down before it left the factory and it rattled loose. It happens.
  4. Hi Alan, So what is the lesson here - what went wrong? What are the chances that an instructor will suggest we take a turn as quickly as the guy in the film did, if our line is not consistent? I did get a little scared...And this driver seems to have flipped over very easily! Best, Gus Looks like a classic mistake in a 911. He turned in too early, too hot, ran out of room and lifted off the throttle mid turn. A sure spin. Once he was going backwards out in the weeds the car tripped and rolled. Limerock is a demanding course with very little runoff room. Maybe these lessons are better learned on a wet skidpad or a large parking lot with only orange cones as obstacles. Running our cars on a track is big fun. You just always gotta remember... STUFF HAPPENS. Never never lift in mid turn.
  5. Sorry man. Driving season is here and your track car is still down. I know that hurts. Do get a second opinion on that tranny. A knocking noise is unusual and there are few things more frustrating than changing expensive parts that don't fix the problem. Did you miss anything with the clutch/flywheel upgrade? If I remember right you used some custom made components. Possible mismatch somewhere? Good luck.
  6. :thumbup: This probably rates as the most intelligent comment I've ever read in any online car forum! Todd, I've been extremely impressed with your mechanical knowledge and ability, and here's another side of you to have high regard for :thumbup: +1 on that! :clapping:
  7. So the real question is, who was the Bozo that squeezed out a 3oz tube of silicone just to change the pan gasket??? <_<
  8. insite, Sounds like bad connectors, bad sensors or wiring got knocked loose or pinched during your upgrades. Double check your leads all the way from the DME to the sensors. Compare the connector on the Bosch to the old o2 connectors. Do the leads look the same? Coded wiring? Do you get similar ohm readings across the leads?
  9. Gus, It's pretty normal to do some tire damage your first few DE's as you learn car control and smooth lines. +5psi in each tire will help reduce shoulder damage during this time. The instructors in our area usually recommend running street tires for your whole first season. They are more forgiving of rookie mistakes and are a lot less likely to flat spot in a full brake spin. Track tires have higher grip levels and are much softer compounds. It would be a shame to destroy a fresh set of victroracers your first day out on them with one big spin. If you want a second set for track days get some cheapies and expect to maul them a little for a while. When you are outrunning all the guys on street tires then go for the Victroracers for higher grip and even faster times.
  10. Peter, I do think you are on the right path. Higher octane and meth injection should control detonation and allow you to make the most out of your FI 2.5L. Once you get her dialed in it's time to take her out to Willow and see what she's got. B)
  11. Yes Gary's car is a very good example... in fact it is the only example I know of a streetable FI Boxster that has logged so many miles. And he is still tweaking it. There are a few others from Ruf and Gemballa that have entire race/tuning teams to insure everything is running right. They are also running racing fuel at $8/gal. Of the scores of owners who have tried it and then gone a different way most said detonation problems were overwhelming when running 91 oct pump gas in Calif. Again...It's not that it can't be done. It just sounds like making HP the hard way on these cars. Ask Gary. If his car was stolen and he was starting over, would he do another 2.5 FI and repeat his steps, or just drop in a 996 motor that is reliable, powerful, and smog legal.
  12. Mike, I know of no one that has logged 20k miles on a supercharged Boxster to date. All of the cars I know that were supercharged were quickly sold, SC removed, or they quickly killed their motor. Most said it wasn't what they were looking for. Not to say that it can't be done successfully, it just hasn't been. The time tested, bulletproof hp upgrade for your car is to swap your motor for a 996 3.4L. 300hp, 280tq with no issues. Not cheap though.
  13. I have the original Porsche CD changer in my car and I have never used it . I may part with it if you are interested.
  14. Do you do a lot of highway/straight line driving? You may have too much negative camber for your driving style. Take it in for an alignment and make sure they are familiar with Porsche. Tell them your recent changes and they should be able to dial out some neg. camber for better tire wear.
  15. Oversize tires rubbing on break components?
  16. Tires are very subjective. What works well for me may not work as well for you. Do a search here and you will find out more than you ever wanted to know about performance tires. Good luck! I have used mixed brands front/rear for a couple of years without issues. Driving with the same tires all around will give you the most predictable performance. I am currently running Michelin PS2's all around. Great max performance summer tire, big $$$.
  17. I have done touch ups on stone chips several times. With lots of time and effort you can get good results. Having said that, If my car was already in the shop and getting a new front bumper and they are already spraying my paint in my color?? I would have them sand and spray the hood. It will look much better for not much more $$.
  18. That depends on your goals. If you want tires that fit well, look right and maintain your OEM speedometer readings you will want tires with an outside diameter of 25". The standard tire size for this is 225/40/18 front and 265/35/18 rear. See here for other choices: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.jsp?mak...tirePageLocQty=
  19. juniinc, I gotta say man I appreciate all the time, effort and thought you have put into your system. I think I am not alone having concerns with your sub placement. Good subs are big and heavy. I worry that in a high G turn that thing will suddenly break loose from it's mount and beat me to death. I work with subs often. I have designed many systems from car audio to home theater to Pro sound applications. There is a time and place for them. A sports car is light and fast by design. It should have a sound system that is light and fast also. While most of the time I prefer to listen to the symphony coming from the tailpipe, once in a while I need studio reference quality sound in my car. Better than any system I can buy or build. On those days I use an Ipod and these:http://www.americanmusical.com/item--i-SHU-SCL2CL.html The sound is as clean, quiet, dynamic, and as full range as you can get. They don't weigh much either. I know, peace officers will frown on this. I suppose I should never exceed the speed limit and mount my front license plate also. Such is life. Just one mans opinion who's been around the block a time or two. An opinion probably shared by many. Maybe there is a bigger market for your sub systems in all the Hummers and Lincoln Navigators out there. Food for thought. :)
  20. Aerodynamics. Make your car more slippery and you will increase top speed with the same HP.
  21. I am currently running PS2's which are very quiet but $$$. My friends car has Bridgestones which are very similar in terms of noise and grip. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?ma...e=25WR6RE050APP
  22. Pretty annoying to have a loose spark plug and two "professional Porsche auto mechanics" tell you it's new motor time. I guess we all fall short at times. Always good to confirm the diagnosis with others before handing over your credit card. Whew!!
  23. You didn't say "It grinds going into 2nd" or " I can't get it into gear". I am guessing the tech misdiagnosed the rattle. Drain and inspect the trans fluid. That will tell a great deal. If it looks really clean and the color is good... no worries. If it looks like a grenade went off in there or the fluid is really dark or full of metal flakes... time to call your warranty guy.
  24. On most cars stiff pedal and difficulty engaging gears usually points to a clutch fluid/hydraulic problem. A failing clutch usually begins to slip in higher gears. Is Porsche any different? Mine has not gone out yet. '98 Box, 73k miles in LA traffic and race tracks. Still original clutch so far.
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