berty987

Slave or other cylinders have nothing to do with clutch slip. Regards. However , if the slave cylinder is not aligned correctly then the slave cylinder can stick and does not release fully or quickly enough. The result is the flywheel spins on the friction plate giving slip. There is plenty of doucumented evidence to suggest air locked clutch hydraulics and badly fitted slave cylinders can cause clutch slip over on the cayman forum. In my case as in those on the cayman forum , the pedal felt as though it had not returned fully when the clutch slip was experienced. Sorry RFM , but I disagree with your comment , as having replaced the clutch with a new item , the biteing point is still at the same high point. The removed clutch and flywheel do not look worn out or damaged to an extent of causing the slippage I experienced. None of the parts were covered under warranty , so ripping out a clutch on a low mileage car , would I suggest , be a last resort. Checking the operation of the slave cylinder and bleeding/ renewing the clutch hydraulics is a far cheaper option as a first action to cure the problem.

So there have been no RMS or more importantly no intermediate shaft failures on MY 2006 cars or later ?

Clutch biting point seems to vary on the 987S. My clutch was replaced at 30 k miles but it was not worn and the biting point was on the last half of the clutch pedal travel. The new clutch had the same biting point , so i wouldn't worry about the exact point on the travel. From what I've read , it may have more to do with the clutch slave cylinder , I would suggest getting the slave cylinder fixings checked and the clutch system bled as ther have been issues with clutch slip due to air locks and poorly fastened slave cylinders on the cayman forum. The fact my clutch would slip on a fast start , but the lining and cover plate looked ok when removed suggests that the slave cylinder may be a more likely fault for clutch biting points etc.

Jeci, I believe you will need the multi function / tip combination buttons to replace your existing tip only buttons. You should already have the correct control unit installed for the tip controls. Just make sure the MFW controls are the correct match for your age of car and existing control module.

Yes , I think cot death about sums it up, also something that occurs when you beleive the infant mortality risk has been passed. Toolpants, the pics you posted , are they a 996 engine ? It looks like the whole bottom end casting has fractured , was this down to the bearing on the intermediate shaft failing or the shaft itself ?

Actually gaspasser, though its called a 2005 model year , many cars in Europe are actually registered and sold during 2004. Here in the Uk you can tell the age of the car by the number / registration plate. The car in question was registered in 2004. My 987 was made and registered in 2004 also.

Whilst in the OPC today, I saw a 2004 997 Carerra with the engine and transmission removed. Talking with the service assistant he told me the intermediate shaft had failed and the engine was out for complete replacement !! The intermediate shaft issue seems to affect all 997 and 987 cars fitted with engines from 2.7 to 3.8 except the 3.6l unit fitted to the Turbo and GT3 (these use the 993 bottom end). Whilst Porsche have just celebrated the 100,000 th 997, I'm sure not all cars are prone to failure , but Porsche do not seem to have a reason for it either. This is a little disconcerting as there does not appear to be any warning or check for failure. The car in question had covered 30,000 miles , is there any record of the mileages that other intermediate shafts have failed at ? Are we all sitting on a time bomb ?

Steer clear of the pressure washer you will undoubtedly do more harm than good , posibly ruining the inner lining as well as the outer. Have Renovo been able to offer any advice on the best removal process for their product. Surely they must know what dissolves it ?

Just finished fitting the multi function wheel controls to my car. I can confirm that it is possible to retro fit these items even to the earliest of 987 models fitted with the original non MP3 compatable PCM 2.1. The actual part numbers were for the current 987/997 rather than my specific year , everything works without fault , suggesting that matched parts are backwardly compatable. Obviously you need some help from your local OPC to get the respective control units recoded for the additional equipment , but the fitting of parts can be done by a reasonably skilled DIY enthusiast. This was the first occasion for my OPC workshop to code in added items , so they took 1.6 hours labour. The coding needs to be done both on the respective control units (steering wheel , PCM) and then have a "vehicle handover" operation completed to make everything work. I guess this opens the way for other modules such as park distance , cruise , or auto dimming mirrors , though these parts may be more difficult to find at a reasonable cost.

Hi, The GT3 wheel is essentially the same unit as the sport wheel except its clad in alcantra rather than leather. Therefore if you currently have the standard wheel you will need both the wheel and the airbag for the sport wheel as the airbags are different. Swapping the wheel is relatively straight forward but needs to be done with the battery disconnected. You will need some basic tools (hex bits , long srewdriver (small flat blade) and I'd suggest a torque wrench of a low scale , as well as some loctite. Yopu should be able to find some info on the wheel removal on this forum as essentially its the same as the 997. After fitting the new wheel and reconnecting power there are a few reset functions that need to be carried out , but its all in the drivers handbook.

I was under the impression the DME adjusts the timing and fuelling to suit the results from the O2 sensors. The upstream sensors are the same as the 996 but the down stream units are different I beleieve. I think the only place to buy them is Porsche anyway.

RUF are very well known. I'm not aware they offer the supercharger conversion on anything other than their new supply cars. TBH never heard of Fanbacher Loles, are they a domestic USA tuner ? RUF have type approval for their mods since they are in Germany , so all their mods must meet stringent safety and emission controls. They also are more likely to be assisted by Porsche in their development programmes. Engine swap for 350 hp sounds a lot of work but would be the most robust solution. Supercharger could give more power and be easier and quicker to install, but you are stressing the basic engine to a new level.

I have fitted the short shift (B & M design) to my 987S , its August 2004 build. Beleive the part number for the selector assembly is the same as the 996.

Not sure what mileage you have on your car but when my clutch was replaced on my 987 S boxster , I was advised its common to have the dual mass flywheel replaced also. The flywheels have a tendency to lose the spring return tension making them rattle and give a lag when taking up drive or throttle is cut. My flywheel was replaced for this reason , not that it had any surface damage or signs of overtemperature having covered only 29,ooo miles. You may for this reason wish to consider a performance clutch and single mass , lighter flywheel , while the job is being done.

The level changes depending on whether the car is warm or cold. If you check the oil in the morning before the car has been run, the oil tends to read lower than when its checked after re fuelling. Seems odd , and i recollect there is a TSB about recalibrating the oil level indicator , so maybe there is an issue. Providing the oil level always reads above half way and never above full , I wouldn't worry too much about the graduations between. I also noticed when the oil is full , you are more likely to experience smoke on start up.

Simple to get the silver covers off with the airbag removed. Getting the airbag off can be a bit tricky as there are 4 catches two at the bottom and one either side at the top. The catches are released when you put the screwdriver in the access hole in the bottom of the wheel , it moves a metal spring , releasing the air bag catches from the metal plate you see in the pic. I think the trick is to try and remove the airbag from the top ones first. Main thing is be patient !

My boxster is an August 2004 manufacture and covered 30 k miles. The intermediate shaft cover did have a very slight weep , discovered during a clutch change , but no probs with RMS.

The porsche battery maintainer is make by CTEK, you can buy the exact same item from them for half the money porsche ask. try looking on e bay. I have a 987 also used weekends. The maintainer is worth while as it stops the battery plates sulphating up and prolongs the battery life. You are also always guaranteed a full charged battery when you come to start the car.

From what i've read and seen, the steering column stalks / switch also includes a control unit. The control unit is coded via the PWIS tester to enable the cruise and other add on functions. I have an early 987s which I intend to retro fit the multi function wheel controls to. From the PET parts catalogue it suggests there is some form of CAN cable that plugs from the cruise control stalk module into the rear of the wiper stalk above it. There is only one part number listed for the control module , suggesting its common to both options. Its possible that on later cars the flying lead has been replaced and the cruise module just clips directly onto the main stalk assembly with no need for an external cable.

I beleive the gear selector needs to be held in place when the transmission is removed to ensure that the linkage movement doesnt start to move from its ideal position when reconnected. Could just be a simple mis alignment isue. Best to talk to the main agent about your concerns as it will be covered under warranty.

I've looked into this myself regarding tuning the 987 s engine. Problem seems to be that the exhaust and headers really need to be matched for optimum gas flow (standard 987 s headers are already better flowed than the 2.7), so personally i'd buy the complete system from one supplier. As to the ECU , again the best approach is to have it bespoke tuned based on the characteristics of the headers , exhaust and way the engine is running. Buying a generic ECU remap may not be the best course of action unless its designed to worth with an exhaust upgrade (as in the case of the techart and speedart upgrade packages). Techart claim about 325 bhp i beleive from the complete package which incidentally uses the BMI air filter. 9FF also offer a complete package and can go slightly higher in red line and output due to replaced cams. If you are intent on changing the exhuast, i'd do this before the remap of the ECU.

Changing the air filter will not give any significant power increases because the ECU can only overfuel by a certain amount. so even if there were no inlet restrictions (ie no filter) you wouldn't get any more gain. The pick up of the engine may be slightly quicker and its true you may get more induction noise, but you also have the risk of the oiled filter element letting oil onto the MAF which may cause measurement errors and problems later on. TBH its more of a cosmetic mod than a performance one , and the quoted 2-3 HP gain is only likely to be at peak power rather than consistently across the range. If you genuinely want more power then an ECU reflash is probably going to give the best results for the money, these usually come with a new (performance) filter element as part of the package. If you start to de snorkel and fit hi flow elements you can get to the point where there is too much air and you run lean on mixture , so getting less performance. The snorkel not only prevents water and debris entering the intake it also ensures a consistent amount of air regardless of speed. Remove the snorkel and you risk getting more ram air effect , so overloading the fuelling which cannot keep up at higher speeds. You don't notice this when the car is on the rolling road dyno because the car obviously isnt moving. i think this is why a 2-3 hp gain can be seen on the dyno because the lower intake resistance is really only going to be seen beneficially when the car is stationary on a rolling road. For a cheap mod to give better sound , just slide the sleeve on the rear muffler between the two boxes slightly to one side.

I have a 987 also fited with the secondary air pump. from what I understand of the system it is a pump that supplies additional air to the exhuast system to allow the cat to operate more effectively before it is fully warm. The system is only designed to run for the first few minutes of the car starting up this in turn reduces the emisions. From the comments you make it suggests that the oxygen sensors in one of the exhausts ( I beleive there is one upstream and one downstream of the main Cat on each branch) is giving a reading to suggest that the mixture is too rich. it could just be a simple case of the oxygen probe in one of the locations being faulty. Are you able to self check each probe ?

Forget the cayman S tips unless its the tequipment round items. On a boxster the rear apron is a different shape to the cayman so the cayman square tips just look odd and out of place. If you are handy with a welder you could always buy a pair of used carrera tips and make up a new outlet , or just go for the boxster s tips.

Are you planning to track the car or is it for road use ? I doubt you will feel the difference of an LSD since the cayman has such good PSM control the LSD will hardly ever get a chance to do its job. The speedart stage 2 I assume is the ECU with exhuast mod , this will give better mid range and pick up , though for serious performance you should also be looking at new cams too. On the road I doubt you will need the mods you suggest, you would probably gain more speed and quicker lap times after a driver training day at a circuit or airfield with a professional instructor. If this is your first Porsche you probably are way off reaching the cars limits ... the instruction will let you discover both your personal and car's true potential.