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911h20

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Everything posted by 911h20

  1. You can also remove the amber in the headlight as well.
  2. Who is going to be first! The window looks a bit smaller in height more than likely the top folds right above where the glass ends. I would sure like to see some feedback from someone.
  3. Check this out! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-996...1QQcmdZViewItem
  4. I've been having some creaking noise in my 1999 996 Cab top lately. Today when I was working on TSB 9662 and "Orient Express's" Intergrated Garage Door Opener Modification I discovered that both mounting nuts that attach the mirror / convertible top bracket are cracked on the driver side! So now I cannot fully tighten both down both nuts on the drivers side to fully secure to mirror. Any advice on how to repair both nuts inside the windshield frame. I am afraid the mirror may come loose when driving and fall off. The garage down modification went great! Thanks Orient Express.
  5. The Mobile website recommends 0W-40 for the 3.4L. Interesting. http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/motoro...s.aspx?option=2
  6. So one possibility is that the alarm circuit seems to think the door is closed (it locks activation when the door is closed too). I guess you could try disconnecting the battery (save you radio stations and radio code first). Leave it disconnected for 5 minutes to be sure memory is cleared - then re-connect it and test again. Also, after disconnecting the battery the DME will need to relearn it's idle process - so the car may run a little rough but that will go away in a few minutes. I finally figured it out after about a 2 hour of removal, replacement and testing. All parts were work correctly the whole time! All that was wrong was the the metal wire that goes into the white actuator part was not bent enought towards the plunger. A bend with pliers solved the problem and I am back in business. Thanks, Loren for all you help. It always seems it is the simpliest thing that goes wrong.
  7. Everything else seems to be in order horn does not beep when the car is locked. When installing the assembly the actuator must be fully extended with the locking device wire inserted inside the actuator white ring, correct?
  8. Loren, Again I disassemble the unit from the sill, check the locking solenoid connection and then reassembled the unit. I check both latches and everything seemed fine. Closed the door, locked the car with the remote, unlocked the and checked the latches and everything work. Did this cycle one more time and everything work fine. Lock the car again and had dinner. I then went back out and unlocked the car with the remote, opened the door and the latches were locked again! :censored: This is driving me crazy. Any suggestions?
  9. Are you speaking of the solenoids for the actuating element, which is the white plastic piece with the hole shown in the DYI article? The two connectors for the memory switch are the only connectors I removed and replaced. I better check and make sure the connectors you speak of are in place, under the carpet correct?
  10. I did this DIY over the weekend, painted the latches and everything came out fine except for one thing. When installing the assembly back in position I can't seem to get the actuating element to function correctly. When everything is first assembled hood and truck latches work fine. Once I drive the car come to a stop and open the drivers door the actuating element does not disengage and locks out the latches for hood and trunk access. So then I have to remove the whole assembly and reinstall. I done this twice I must be doing something wrong, however this whole thing seems very simple. Any help would be greatly appreciated. :help:
  11. There is an October article in 911 & Porsche World that discusses earlier M96 engines and AutoFarm's theory of seal and cylinder failures. Very interesting and contradicts other articles written on the subject RMS failures. Not very flattering for Porsche. The saga continues
  12. I have dealt with this guy. Run!!! He has works under the different names LVDell mentioned and the quality if his work is garbage.
  13. I tried all of the above with any luck. I finally went to the dealer for some other work and they set this feature for free.
  14. Try Dent Pro. I understand their are others that do this type of work. In our area I have used Dent Pro on all my cars where the results are so good it is impossible to see where the dent(s) were.
  15. Try your local automotive paint shop. Bring in the piece you want to paint and they can help with your needs.
  16. I tried the Cargraphic (made by H&R, supposedly a bit softer than regular H&R's ?) springs with stock shocks and the shocks did not work correctly, the car would bounce a couple of times after a big enough bump. I then switched the stock shocks to Bilsten sport struts and the ride is just right. Mildly more stiff and firm but not to rough.
  17. Does any know what the dimensions are for the length and diameter of the crossover pipe for a PSE.
  18. It look at you are on to something although the bypass valve could be a little more glamorous. In all seriousness, it appears the main difference is the bypass pipe added between the inlet and outlet portion of the muffler. True?
  19. Anyone have a cutaway drawing, I am curious what the difference between PSE and stock.
  20. What does it take to convert a set of standard 996 C2 mufflers into a set of PSE's without the bypass valves? Is this possible to do?
  21. Thanks once again Loren. To bad Porsche could not make it simple.
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