rsfeller

Progressive IMHO is as good as anyone else. They don't have the best rates for sports cars but their online presense is good and the response time is good too. It really comes down to a good body shop that your trust that Progressive is willing to pay! FYI: Two years ago the wife messed up her Saab 9000, which was a incredibly well maintained car. She took it to the shop of a friend from school. Since I was so busy with work at the time I didn't get involved and the work looked acceptable for a 10 year old car from 10 feet away. When spring came and it was time to crack the hood to do maintenance I was appalled at the "behind the scenes" work. Missing screws, zip ties hold cracked light frames and the wheel well (plastic) line had every hole cut out as they were to lazy to remove the 20 bolts. It may have cracked from the accident (doubt it) but either way their should have been a new wheel well liner. Two years later it's start to sag. Once you sign off on the work you have little recourse to ***** later, I know! Shawn

Wow that is horrible! I was waiting for you to state you had the litronics system, I would agree who wants our burned out yellow ones! I have Progressive and they like most insurance companies will get new parts but repair work including paint and panels should be done by someone you trust. As you know Progressive has a great online presence and you can review your policy fine print online with your account management. That will define how they cover items. I'm sure Progressive is mostly the same across the board but different from other companies. The problem is usually with the body shop not the Insurance company. I have the luck of knowing my mechanic and body man personally. I see what others I only know from the phone book due and they will do the basics and find cheap parts. It's up to you to insist they use new and check their work! Shawn

Thanks all, sounds like the MAF is where I'll start, do the plugs too when I do my seasonal oil change in the coming weeks. Loren, You don't think there is any correlation to the disengagment of the variocam at the given RPM, because if I had to guess exactly where the drop kicks in. The MAF is an easy check so that is where I'll start this weekend. I just figured when my decided to go like everyone else's it would be slightly more dramatic! What does MAF standard for, is it a air mass meter? Shawn

Perleman and gang. I have no codes or CEL at this point. How could it be in failure mode if there are no triggered codes yet? Does it do this before it offically gives up the ghost?

So any other thoughts on my original question or is it just going to be a 30K plug pile on for this replies!?!? thanks all! I got it, 30K... Shawn

MBybe it's goodl got the interval wrong then. I've got a reason for theflat spot. I got the car @ 64K So I'm guessing the plugs werl done once at least. Is the 2.SL engine sensati ve when it comes to plugs? I've direct ignition cars the are hyper sensative. go tribe

I think this had gotten a bit worse over the last year, mostly this summer. 1997 986 w/75K After properly warming up and going for a spirited ride I always notice when in 2nd or 3rd gear and hammering the accelerator that my car pulls great from 4K-6k+ rpm. There is always a small drop (I hate to use the word hesitation) in the power around 5k-5200 rpm. You can just tell that the power drops momentarily w/o a feel of a miss. I really don't think it's ignition or fuel related from the seat-of-the-pants feel. Anyone else experience this or know if this is a symptom of anything? This car is well maintained with filters, belts, ect but I have not done the plugs yet and would assume they are original. If I recall the service period is 100K for the plugs but I'm curious to other opinions. Thanks. Shawn

the top comes off in 10-20 minutes so I say it's easier 11

It's only a dumb question for us here on the 986 board! We got Boxster on the brain for the most part!

It does seem some business models charge people for failed diagnosis, some obvious don't! This week we lost our exchange server (email) at my business. Now I'm pretty good with computers but Exchange is best left to the experts. Two different techs couldn't fix our bad AD and database and it took them 4 days to throw in the towel and say it was unsalvagable. Since I needed email back up we went with another solution as exchange had crashed 3 times in 6 years. They charged me a couple hundred to config the new system and get it going but did NOT charge me one penny for 50 hours invested in my old exchange system. Now that is great service! The think that techs should always keep in mind is people don't like paying much for failed diagnosis or to be told their car/computer/wife is broken. Finding the heart to get them to invest in another solution or refund the money and consider it lost time will often go a long way in encouraging future business when they have something you CAN fix and charge them accordingly for! Shawn

and what were the codes from the CEL?

Those guys must have had a learning disability then. We had our frame off in 10 minutes and back on in 15 minutes doing it twice as I had not bent a part back into shape correctly the first time. I believe you have 3 bolts each side and they are self centering so there is not "sweet spot" you have to find for the top to fit. Where they unbolt is where they go back. There was no need for a left/right cable adjustment either. Including the cam arms it's 10 times easier then any other convertible I've ever taken off. Maybe the 2nd generation boxsters are more difficult but not the first gen. Shawn

Hand sewing this stuff only needs a good needle, pliers and patience. I've practiced on my boat canvas and it's really easy to do by hand. Now running and industrial sewing machine is an art form. Remember taking the frame off and benching it will make it easier to get to the underside too! Obviously anything is better then the yellowed one it's replacing but keep in mind for the boating world there are many different plastics with different pros/cons. Some flex, some don't...at different thickness (mils). We need to fold in half! I would tell anyone to try it themselves if they can sew a pair a (tool)pants and have good canvas. Patience will get you a professional look and I agree for less then $50. FYI that Joanne Fabrics (we have them in the midwest) carries middle grade stuff that will last 3-5 years, I used it to repair side windows on my boat when the guy in the shop by the lake told me $400, I did it for $40. Learned lots too! Shawn

Nice. What was the product used, something like strato-glass used on boats? Was it a bear getting the needle and tread through both? Many have seen my posts as we took the top/frame off my car this summer to fix a "bent" part in the top. It took about 10 minutes to get the top/frame off and on the bench. I saw this as a far easier way to get the needle/thread at the rear window for such a fix as yours. I would love to know what product you used and how you feel the stitches look. Shawn

Maurice, Got great answers but some info: When I bought my 2.5L used I had similar issues and although I know I had the seatbelt fault I believe I saw the air bag (SRS) fault you mentioned. I'm trying to check my screenshots of the durametric to "back this up". I bought the kit buckles and ground set too. I noted when I got everything apart that the ground wires appeared to have been done by the PO so I sent the kit back and installed the buckles. That problem never reared it's ugly head. About the same time I replaced the horn issue with the bad bushings in the air bag frame. After that was fixed (which included disengaging the air bag lead) and putting it back on the "other error" never appeared again. I don't have you answer but getting the air bag out is a 10 minute job. It may be worth checking the wires in that area for cuts/chafes. I don't recall how the circular spring wiring is in the Boxster but in my Saabs their failure has always triggers SRS lights. I've relplaced the twice in my Saab with 260K miles. Shawn Ohio

WOW! :o My comment could be a bit misleading as you are correct, you can put canvas on the car with the frame still on the vehicle. But if you happen to have the correct frame/top off a donor car the entire frame is 4 bolts and an the transmissions arms and you are done. It's silly easy.

error codes from the security/immobilizer system would be helpful to some of the experts around here. I know I pull some codes on my system via the Durametric that don't trigger the CEL. I believe they can help you tell if the system has been changed around from the previous owner or confirm the computer (ouch!) needs swapped.

I thought that you could replace these tops while retaining the mechanism on the car? If you look at his other auctions it leads me to believe that he is an 'auto recycler', maybe he plans to sell the rest of the car a bit at a time... :P As long as it's the right year replacing the whole top and frame can take less then a 1/2 hour while just putting on canvas can take 8-10 hours!

I agree with the question but I thing there are several reasons. The canvas is cheaper to ship and you can sometimes get more money for two parts! Maybe the top was even cracked or damaged w/o doing in the canvas.

Could be a great deal. Make sure you quick the seller on how they took it off, hopefully with great care!

I'll get you before everyone else jumps on! This item has been HEAVILY discussed on the board, posibly the #1 engine topic. So do some searching to get 1001 threads on this. Additionally, if you don't have the Bentley manual get it NOW, it will explain the location and process in great detail. see this search list. Go new on such an item IMHO. I am all for used parts when it comes to mechanical stuff (not related to safety) on my vehicles (including my Porsche) to save money but the MAF is something you want right or you will have CEL again and again and not know who to blame! Shawn Ohio

Always interesting to me that the dealer tech solution is to replace the who sub-system or area when obviously a new switch is all that is needed! Most likely they don't have just a part number for the switch...but it could easily be fixed or replace with a little searching if the door handle assembly is to pricey.

If it is fully going up and not sloppy, you are correct that the regulator has most likely not had the common fray failure, yet... There is another post going on in the last week similar to yours with a guy stating his lights and other items don't act like they got the "close signal". Although Bentley has no details on such a switch one can assume there is a switch in the door catch or the lock assembly handles multiple tasks. Do the same test I told this other guy. Open your door and using and object such as a screw driver (or your finger!) and push in the door striker catch that grabs around the pin. Note it has two positions and you must push hard to get it to engage as it would around the pin to trigger the window drop signal. Note if the behavior is the same as your concern and check to see if the concern effects your lights. I'm quite sure it has nothing to do with computer systems controlling this system as there is a door lock mechanism that most likely is triggered by the striker assembly to figure out. NOTE: You must open the door from the outside handle to open the striker claw back up or your door will not close properly! It has been a year since I had more door apart for a window repair so I'm rusty on what is going on in the lock area, but as I told the guy with a similar issue the door inner cover comes off easy. If you are good with troubleshooting and a multi-test get to it. I'm sure you will find a funky switch or a shorted/chaffed wire. If it's that lock assembly get on ebay and find a used one! Send me a private message as I may have a document you are interested in to compliment the Bentley. Shawn

Good info Andy, as you said it looks like the driver door sensor. So that is 1/2 the battle. You now need the knowledge (and desire) to pull the door apart to find the sensor. although I never found much in the Bentley on the door sensor itself the Bentley very well documents getting the door apart. It's very easy on the boxster and well documented on this site somewhere by those fixing the common window drop problem (cable fray). If you are a DIY then you need to test that switch and the only way to get to the switch is most likly going to be through the inner door panel. Do some research on the door panel, grab your mulit-tester and get to it.

Andy, What happens on the other side when you push in the striker? If you switch is bad it should most likely on affect one side. And are you sure you are getting the striker claw fully closed? Some times they click once and then push a little more for a true locking. Shawn