rsfeller

So do people really think you have to drive a Porsche like a nut all the time or it will fall apart? Or worse yet berate their wife for getting kitty litter with it? White or blue/dark smoke? either way it could be the common start puff (I've seen when my car has been recently driven) or early AOS... http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/airoilseparatorreplacement Mike says it best...if you have white smoke all the time you have a far bigger issue with coolant in the wrong place so hope for the AOS. Read his write-up check the system with a DIY and you'll have your answer. If you don't get a plume again it may have been a typical (yet large) start cloud.

If the pulley came off it was for a reason other then a tight belt. It was either put on wrong or defective. When they fail they need replaced. If it truly a tension pulley (and not an idler pulley) then the spring loading that holds the tension may be damaged or worn too which will cause a belt to jump.

I think we can assume that that coasting a mile or two down a mountain pass is going to cause speeds in excess of 15mph. With modern transmissions the issue is not with "coasting" in N at a higher speed it is the required shift in and out of N at higher speeds that some cars don't like.

Putting ANY modern automatic car in N while at high speeds is usually a no-no and good rule of them to NOT do. I've owned several makes models with different trans manufactures but I know for a fact ZF and Asian both do not recommend on some models. I cannot image the Tip would like it either but I do not know for sure on your make/model. If you do a search on a recent (painfully) long email on the discussion of idle for engine braking and gas consumption you an draw you own conclusions based on theories that have such a minor saving in your pocket book it's not worth considering.

Your way off with all the symptoms pointing to the belt. To many system failures to be anything but the belt.

Yes, it's called the search function. As a newbie here I'll warn you that you should research a bit before you ask. Most concerns you are going to have are very common and been covered 1001 times. Google first! Ask 2nd!

No you are connecting dots where there are no dots. Although there is minor chance something seized and caused the belt to break it most likely broke due to fatigue. A sized waterpump could in fact do this but it would have shown other signs (most likely) prior to the break. As far as the serp belt break doing damage, again highly unlikely and definitely not the way you think. thermostat = impossible. You only concern is how far you drove after it went "hot" as drinking while hot is a good way to ruin an engine and more specifically heads and head gaskets. If you reacted in less then a minute you are fine. If you drove home 10 minutes before the battery light came on and the battery went dead you may have issues yet to be seen. Sounds like a $200 fix from a private shop that knows Boxsters. don't take it some place dumb they will not know how to even open the engine bay. You must have bad luck to lose two serp belts unless you are neglecting your maintenance/mileage. I don't think I've broken one in 20 years or 20 cars!

This is not unique to Porsche but of any symptom of any car in the world! I'm going to guess you are not a strong DIY'r so you'll have to flat bed the car to an independent Porsche shop. You simply have a broken serp belt which (guess what) powers the water pump (cooling), alternator (battery light) and power steering pump!

are you reading your own posts? http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=21720&hl= Looks like it's only your 2nd post under this undername. take some time to learn the functionality of your profile and you can keep tabs on your own posts even if nobody has replied to trigger an automessage to your email inbox.

The wife pointed out that I am a double dumbass. POR986 hit the nail on the head. I didn't have the full lights on. My full lights are so crappy that they are not much an improvement over the driving lights. Looks like I didn't go one click far enough and thus the high beams didn't work! Why did the wife say I'm a double dumbass? Because she said I did the same think last summer!

haha! I'll bet you that is it! Will test tomorrow and post results...

I have to admit over the last year I've driven my 1997 986 about twice at night, so who knows how long this issue has been there. I noted that when I put the high beams on they would not work nor is the dash indicator on. When I pulled back on the stalk for the "flash" they worked fine. Usually I would assume relay, especially from lack of use but I was also assume the same relay runs the "flash" (back) as well as the on (forward) position. Low beams work fine. Can anyone verify if they do in fact use the same relay? Is this a common failure point? I see low beam issues but nothing pertaining to high beams on a non-litronics system.

Sounds like a candidate for the very common ignition failure although it seems more prone on early models. Search the board for this topic, it's been covered in detail quite a bit. Mike has a DIY on it but doesn't go into the failure trend: http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/ignitionswitchreplacement. The failure trend info is documented on this site and others as one of the top 10 failure items. As far as seeing this failure it seems common with with vw/audi group vehicles as it's common with several models I have owned, exact same issues. Accessories work fine but ignition will not fire or other odd behaviors are seen.

Not to sound rude but have you even tried to search this topic? This has to be one of the top 3 most discussed procedures on the 986 forum with costs, procedures and photos documented again and again? http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...te=%2Bexpansion &

I think we went "easy" on you for mentioning Maaco on a Porsche enthusiast site so thanks for seeing the humor and facts as they are. FYI that BBB is a good source believe it or not. When I restored my Vw Vanagon Westfalia a few years ago in a small market town (Mansfield Ohio) that I was not familar with, the BBB was good for keeping me away from a few bad apples (which were latter backed up with opinions from co-workers). Funny thing is the guy I did go to screwed me anyways with a $4000 prep and paint job for seem rust that showed up (the rust) again in less then 30 days. I took the van to Key West a couple weeks after the paint job and saw rust coming through the paint while siting on the beach admiring the work! So even those who spend money get screwed. Every jack-*** guy on my Vw board chastised me for a mearly $4000 pain job...I guess I should have spent $8K!!! It happens to all of us, live and learn...and good luck in small claims, that is about useless too.

Ok, the first step is to take a deep breath and calm down! :D If you want to be (or already are) a DIY'r all this stuff is covered in the Bentley and on this site (and others). Dig a bit deeper with your own research to find procedures that cover this stuff quite clearly with photos. I doubt you are going to get all your answers from a local this easy, so you need to find the confidence and info to get started on your own. Additionally, I preach to all newbies on this site that you need to take $350 and buy the Bentley Manual (book no CD) and the Durametric diagnostic software. Stop reading this post and just do it now! No Seriously Do it now. Now if you are going to tell me you just bought a Porsche and have no money, I'll want to slap you but if that fact is true then just get the Bentley to get you started on these projects and grab the Durametric when you have a CEL or your next paycheck. One of many good sources of DIY stuff: http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/mikespor...boxsterwebpages and there are several others. Also, get your parts from the site sponsor, look under Special Offers on the top menu. I got my horn frame (bad bushings) on ebay for cheap (new) and got replacement horns from (Sunset). You have to figure out which is your horn issue and which steering wheel config you have. Again all this info is clearly on this website. Serp belt ans service is also a DIY and on the site and in the Bentley. Filer tube on this site but I have no comment on the oil return tubes as I am not familiar with them or that concern. Now as far as the AOS, something is unclear. It doesn't sound like you replaced the AOS just fixed a boot, correct? I am speaking out my *** here as I have been blessed with a 1997 with few issues and have not done the AOS yet...but you state it's only on startup? That sounds like a typical flat 6 engine (maybe to me). My puffs pretty good when the car sits for a few days. You state in your profile you had a 911 and you never experienced this? A failed AOS (just guessing here) has more smoke to share then start up (again look at Mike's page on this topic: http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/airoilse...torreplacement). Here is a quote from Mike's site: "A quick puff of smoke occasionally on start up is not at all unusual nor is it a sign of the AOS failing as long as it is only at startup. It is a characteristic of the flat-six engine and the way oil sometimes drains. You should check inside the AOS tubing where it goes into the air intake for heavy oil in the tube before removing/replacing the AOS. A light coating in that tube is normal. " Dig deep young grasshopper and all you seek can be done in your garage with a gnarly set of tools. When you have 80% of the DIY done maybe someone will crawl out of the Texas dirt and help you, but don't hold your breath.

Let's face it the guy (gal?) is going to take a beating from us on this post. Maacco doesn't do **** on every job but this is a perfect example of you get what you pay for. I've seen $500 paint jobs look incredible but it takes $3000 in prep work to make the $500 job look good. No prep = crap work. I know most Maacos suck but not all...but they are best left for 15 year old Ford F150 and Chevy Impalas, high school kids with a first car or a daily driver on a budget...not a guy who is going to take a car to an appraiser to sell!

No offense but this is the silliest thing I have ever heard. Those guys are know as a discount auto body and paint option and the lowest rung on the food chain, I figured most consumers knew that! Now don't get me wrong. There is a small old one in my home town and if you are going to pay them $5000 they will give you a $5000 paint job, but I doubt you paid that much and the old saying of "you get what you pay for" when you go to a Maacco applies for sure. They are going to use paint thinners to remove the over spray and will most likely be able to do it just fine w/o and damage. They maybe able to salvage a couple spots but you took your car to the Yugo of car repair and just because they are a "chain" doesn't make them good! Hopefully you don't take your Porsche to BP Pro-cares, Midas or such either! Lastly, about 15 years ago I stripped every piece of chrome and trim from my 1988 Saab 900 Turbo, taped off all windows, seams and wheels and gave them about $600 for a good paint job that lasted for years. I also did the sanding and wax removal of the oil paint...so you see how much work I had to to do just to get a ***** poor basic paint job. Bad Porsche owner...bad, bad, bad. I'd chase you with a rolled up newspaper if I was near you! :lol: EDIT: I have to add the part I forgot too! They actually wrecked my car when they had it buy rolling it on ice into another car...they only busted out my eurospec lights but were actually not going to tell me until I pointed out that someone changed out my lights!! They almost refused to fix the way I wanted because they couldn't find the eurospec parts and would only do OEM. I seem to remember now getting a half price paint job and if I would have noticed my headlights being different they would have got away with it. Bad, bad, bad Saab owner... :D

If you get the top off the frame to take it somewhere you may as well buy another top online (ebay) for $600 and put it back on. This of course assumes you have the money. Since you seem to be a DIY'r I would suggest you take the top and frame off together. You can flip it over like a turtle on his back and easily fix hardware or hand sew (with patience) so in a new plastic window. Removing the top frame from the car takes approx. 45 minutes for a newbie and involved about 4 blots, two top cables on the bal joints. It's covered in the Porsche tech manual very poorly, you can figure it mostly out on your own very easily.

why the inquiry?

Note: My old link has a couple PDFs missing, the updated location is hosted at: http://www.carboncow.net/index.php?option=...6&Itemid=51 I reviewed my write-up to check on why it's not clear. I believe you are asking how the flap comes out. All the hard work you are doing up top with the wipers and heater core is to remove the flap from the top. But as stated in the direcctions you do have to take the SERVERO ARM off under the dash. Everything is accurate in the write-up and when you start working it will all make sense. * Removing cowl to access heater core access area. * Removing windshield wipers, wiper arms and motor assembly. * Removing braces and brackets blocking heater core. * Removing heater core hoses and pulling unit straight up. * Taking servo arm off and removing bottom plug. * Dremel crown of door axis off for access to top plug * Removing door/flap and all left over foam * Sealing holes in door * Reinstall was opposite of removal.

I doubt they consider it a "design flaw" as German's tend to do EVERYTHING for a specific reason when it comes to engineering and those silly swiss cheese holes have some purpose unbeknown to us! My parents neigbor got me hooked interested in German cars when I was little with his Audi, Vw and Porsche collection. He used to have a saying that I stole. German doesn't always mean "good engineering" but it does man OVER engineering. They would only look at it as a failure in selecting the wrong quality foam!! Similarly, Saab (obviously not German) had foam shooting out of the events in the 9000 series from 1986-1997 and never cared in those 11 years. I had a 1987 (and wife now has a 1995) 9000 and the foam was shooting out of the air vents when the 1987 car was 3 years old...yet they never cared about this issue to update it as I was surprised the 1995 was doing the same thing. It would be interesting to know if anyone with later model 987 has had any foam shooting out. I have also been surprised at how few have commented on actually doing this procedure when the foam seems to be a common issue with many cars. I cannot image others have taken issue with the diminished heat problem. Are all the cars in the USA in warm climates!?!?! and I still have not received a call from Porsche! :P Maybe Loren could start a poll question for us and inquire the following. Do you have pieces of foam coming out of your air vent? No Yes, 1997 Yes, 1998 Yes, 1999 and so on... and we can then get a feel when if this issue has stopped or how old the car must be before the foam has deteriorated. Shawn

Looking at the images on the folders and their organization those are in fact the hijacked PDFs I own. I do know there are some crappy version out there too but I do know I have the full version that is 600+ pages. I am very curious if PK paid $15 on ebay for these and were the ones with crude line drawings that he was not impressed with, we may be on the same page. I know some illegal sorts are selling the highly incomplete PDF version of these. I only mention that to others who may inquire that although these are a great resource I spend more time with Bentley on standard DIY'r projects. These are the ones with questionable or cryptic procedures (at times) and poor line drawing on body systems in my oppinion. I used it when removing my convertible top frame and I recall it had me asking more questions then answering! As stated before I am sure they are great for specs on engines and hard facts like torque specs. EDIT: I stand corrected I do in fact have a copy of the incomplete version. I had this confused with a full Passat Tdi document that is 600+ pages!

PK, If you have never seen the Bentley before you are missing out. It's a incredible non-factory resource for almost every Vw, Audi and now Porsche I've owned and they are updated regularly (in the case of my Vw Vanagon)...I cannot imagine needing much more. Since you don't know the printed document I believe you are VERY confused in knowing the CD. First the CDs are inferior in quality because of searchability and navication to the hard copy...but they are hardly $15...I think the best prices I've ever seen for new is about $70, only a few dollars less then a new hardcopy. They are a headache to manage if you change computers due to upgrades, crashes, ect. I painful call to India can leave you so frustrated you throw out the disc (as I did with my Eurovan!). The $15 disc you reference is most likely one of the horrible things I've seen on the market that may actually contain the Porsche Tech manuals this post references! I asked if the Tech Manuals for sale are in fact the illegal PDF I've had for years as they are not very useful but a great addition to the web, Bentley, durametric...but from my experience are very lacking in procedures and drawings. They may be better for engine/tranmissions stuff but for sub systems they have often left me short. I usually have to use multiple resources to get the a good picture before I crack open the car. As always the procedures of individuals and renntech.org members are the best IMHO. They are easily 10 times the ressource in images, photos, specs and procedures of Chiltons. Lastly, I am interested in the P-Tech manuals at $200.00 but if they are the PDF copies I already have, I'm not impressed. I like to own original and legit copies for my collection but I doubt I would use these a fraction as much as the Bentley and this board.

What are the benefits from such manuals that cannot be gleaned from Bentley and great resources such as Renntech? Are these the Tech Manuals that are already floating around (illegally) in PDF format on the net or something else?