hankster66

Thanks. I forgot to ask before, but when you say "bad earth"... is that a bad ground in the UK? Learn something every day.

...one additional observation regarding door locking sounds from outside the car... - On the driver side, I can hear and feel the mechanism trying to lock at the door handle area; - On the passenger side, unlike the driver side there are no sounds/vibrations coming from the door; instead I hear and feel switching immediately before the gas cap area. Again, totally new to P-cars and their workings, so just sharing in case this gives additional clues.

It doesn't show signals, but does provide actuations to test systems... - First correction to previous is that the right door does attempt to lock... I could only feel/hear it from outside the car; unlike the passenger side where it is obvious from inside the car, it's not obvious on the passenger from inside the car. - After clearing codes, and actuating door locks w/ durametric, does the same thing as before, but instead of giving me "60" fault code, it gives me two others: - 58: "Tank servo motor not energized despite relay activation"; this fault showed repeatedly after each actuation. - 47: "Control locking synchronization"; I realized that when I did the first actuation, I still had the driver door open; This showed up "red" when open and then "yellow" when closed.

Hi Richard, I just found your tutorial on troubleshooting microswitches, which is excellent. I think I am dealing with number (6) in your list... the door locked microswitch. I want to make sure I'm dealing with the correct door and also not missing something else... here's the scenario: - Car will not lock using keyfob; it attempts to lock, then unlocks and then double beep... no variation to this. - This throws Fault 60 on durametric "Central locking limit position Lock not reached" - When I use the emergency manual lock process from outside car, only the driver side locks; passenger remains unlocked. - From inside the car, when using lock switch, left door locks, which requires a double pull on handle to open door; the passenger door never locks (or attempts to lock) and opens immediately on one pull of the handle. - The windows open/close appropriately on latch pull/release inside and outside the car. The only nuance is that unlike the driver side, the door does not "spring" open freely on latch pull so window automatically goes back up when I release because it thinks the door is still closed; however, when door is open and handle released it operates properly and none of this seems to throw a fault code so just may be a mechanical thing in the door. Based on the above, I think I'm dealing with having to replace passenger side lock assembly only; would you agree? Are there any updates to repair process or recommended replacement part?

Thanks JFP for all the advice, including your insights into LN IMS Solution, as I had not seen that level of detail on their development protocols... you've given me more to think about. Relatively speaking to get the car on the road in a much better place than it is now at the best economic value, I'll likely go the retrofit route. If I were tracking the car or putting it under extreme conditions, I might go a different route. Entering as a developing DIYer new to the P-Car realm, I'm trying to find the right balance between convenience and budget, and thread the needle between the philosophies of getting ahead of it and not fixing what's not broken. Also appreciate the tip on the oil pump drive where I then noticed an old post you did. These kinds of things seem prudent, timely and with the other work going into it very budget friendly. To be certain about cam deviation, , I re-ran both shortly after cold start and prolonged drive... - FIRST TIME (30+ min Idle): -10.44 / -5.64 - 2ND TIME COLD (5 min idle): -10.84 / -5.67 - 2ND TIME HOT (15 min idle + 30 min drive): -10.13 / 5.64 Waiting for manometer to test AOS, and will do filter/sump evaluation, but assuming I'm only dealing with typical timing issue (pad/chain), my tentative project plans are below. DOING NOW WITH ENGINE / TRANNY DROPPED - Clutch / Flywheel (including updating clutch lever / pin, etc.) - IMS (LN Dual Row Retrofit) / RMS - Bank 1 and Bank 2 Variocam Pads - Cam to Cam chains - Possibly the inaccessible tensioner(s) (some doubt here driven by learning that some/all tensioners updated in late '00 after my car) - Spark Plugs (90k service; new seals for tubes) - Water Pump / LN Low Temp Thermostat - Oil pump hex drive, pressure relief upgrade (as you suggested, and latter I saw in separate thread) - All new seals, including for solenoids - Any tubes, etc. I discover along the way needing replacement TENTATIVELY NOT DOING (Items that can only be done with engine out, but not obvious I need to do now) - Long chains / paddles (have some doubts here, but tentatively thinking not typical/obvious issue unless I discover otherwise in teardown) - cam bearings (might measure for wear, but likely not needed) - piston rings (unrelated, but bring up since having to tear down engine; will do leak down test before teardown) - Solenoids (will test to be sure in operating condition; seen many just go ahead and replace, but again trying to find a practical balance) - con rod bolt upgrades (seen some recommendations to do so, and may do so if I do a full tear down or not) DOING LATER (To phase cost and project work that are easy enough to do w/ Engine in) - Accessible chain tensioners - AOS (if manometer test comes back ok) - Coils (While a nice-to-do, not seeing an urgent need, unless I discover some damage) Any thoughts on above. Did I miss anything to consider? Are there any items that can/should be tested / measured during teardown to evaluate whether to replace now or later? Thanks, in advance, for any insights.

Thanks for all the advice JFP! I was seriously considering the IMS Solution, but the economics seemed strange to me... $1,800??? I understand one and done, but I could essentially have a solid dual row for 6 years / 75k miles during which I continue to evaluate my investment in the car, and even if I kept it for 12 years I'd still be at the price of the solution. Just seems like a big leap at that price compared to the alternatives out there.

Jumping on this related thread for advice on my clutch/IMS project where I discovered cam deviations of -10.44 / -5.64. Background - 2000 996.1 C2, 90K miles - Recently purchased, no IMS/RMS ever done - No faults, leaks, smoke, strange sounds from car, other than clutch issue. - oil cleared blackstone analysis at purchase (done by owner), current oil/filter/sump check pending - As preventative, planned LN IMS retrofit with clutch/flywheel repair Current Status - In running through LN pre-qualification durametric tests, all checked out ok except for cam deviations of -10.44 / -5.64. I ran engine for 30 minutes, of which 5 minutes were driving around the block (can't go far as clutch is "gone"). - Stopped proceeding further (with dropping transmission, etc.) pending further research on cam development - LN recommending (based on values) variocam pad replacement and preferably chains 4 and 5 Tentative Plans - Rerun durametric tests at cold start and at running temp to see trend for cam variation - Do oil filter/sump check and scope cylinders before dropping anything to better assess engine / IMS condition - Determine next steps, including whether I'll proceed with IMS replacement (if I discover dual row and operational) which I could do later after taking care of more imminent concerns. Questions - Assuming deviations are correct, any opinions on how imminent of a concern this is (i.e., car should not be driven until corrected)? - Are there other tests I could/should do to get a better sense of what's going on before proceeding? - Assuming that I'm better off dropping the engine (which seems daunting to me) than working on it in place, what else would be "crazy" for me not to do while in there? - Any videos/references you have used that might help me assess whether I proceed on this journey as a DIY or pursue indy shop job? - Did I miss anything I should be thinking about?