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Just wanted to thank @JFP in PA again for all his insight and provide a positive close to this thread. It turns out that after going back to look the issue I did a rookie mistake and swapped ignition wires for cylinder #1 and #2. Also, the timing was a bit off so I had to go back in and adjust. That being said, the timing was the more difficult of the two to get spot on but eventually I worked around it. Working with the engine in the car was not as difficult as most people say. The hardest was loosening tensioner for Bank 2 (4-6). that was a mission.
Update: Switched coils with #3 and cleared codes. No codes returned and no misfire so that's taken care of but car still runs rough.
Hello all, This is a continuing repair to what started as a camshaft deviation out of spec leading to the replacement of the chain tensioner pads / brake pads / chain ramps on my 2000 911 - 996 5-Chain engine. Seen here: That odyssey has since been resolved but I now have a new issue. Quick background: Removed camshafts, readjusted the camshaft chain timing "marker" positions, replaced tensioner pads, reassembled everything per factory specs. On first start up got very rough idle and bad misfires. At first I thought it may have been my timing was off but went back and visually inspected all and all looked correct (visually). Upon further inspection realized parts guy had given me Bosch 7403 plugs instead of Bosch 7413 (2000 Porsche 911). Current issue: Switched out and installed the correct spark plugs and no more continuous misfires / backfires. Did the initial reset (wait 1 min with ignition on / turn ignition off / wait 10 sec) On the first start up it did misfired / back fired once but I assumed that was left over fuel. Car now runs but very rough and threw 2 codes: - P0300 : Porsche Fault code 62 - Misfire damaging cat. converter - P0301 : Porsche fault code Cylinder 1 misfire damaging to cat. converter Also, took these readings: Actual angle for camshaft bank 1: -12.53 Actual angle for camshaft bank 2: 3.05 On positive note the main reason for doing all this work was the original problem / issue of tensioner / brake pad wear which was giving me a -10 / -2.92 reading is now: Camshaft position 1 deviation: 0.00 Camshaft position 2 deviation: 0.00 So the question is now are the Actual angle for camshaft readings within specs and could incorrect timing be attributed to these new issues? And... Do I have to give the DME time to "relearn"? Txs all
Just wanted to post an update and recommendations for doing the chain pad swap with the engine in the car. Doing this with the engine in the car was filled with curse words, scrapes and cramps in parts of the body I forgot existed but it got done. If I decide to help on a friend's car I will document the details. The biggest issues / challenges are: 1. Enough clearance on Bank 4-6 to place the cover on without screwing up the sealant. 2. Instead of using the Porsche tools recommended by the Bentley and Porsche FSM I would use this Porsche timing tool (recommended by Wayne in 101 Projects book) The reason is that there's not enough clearance to use the factory recommended one with the engine installed. Plus, you kill two birds with one stone because you can check the timing while holding down camshafts and vice versa. However, using this tool is a bit different from what the factory specs requires as this tool is "stationery" while the other one allows you to "wiggle" the camshaft into the perfect vertical position. See write more about this here: http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/564427-camshaft-timing-durmetric-readings-errors.html @Dharn55 3. Getting to tensioner for Bank 4-6 is a nightmare. The compressor has to be moved out of the way, the wiring harnessed loosened the compressor line "moved" slightly out of the way and then the correct socket height to clear the engine block. The real issue becomes on reinstalling the tensioner because the deep socket you used ( because of size 1 1/4") before to remove now is too "deep" to use . So I ended up placing a 25MM in that one and then compressing some cardboard until there was about 1/2" left at the socket end. Then yo have to use an extension and swivel adapter and apply pressure from the top to thread in but ***CAREFUL*** because you need to apply pressure and go in exact or you stand the chance of cutting into the threads on the block. 4. Accessing the muffler mount bolts at the top and the top most front of the engine valve cover bolt are most challenging and then no real way to torque to spec. You need to "feel" and come as close as possible. 5. Bumpers and heat shield on my car did not need to come off . 6. Make sure you have all secondary hardware such as: new header gasket (crush type), new valve cover bolts, spark plug tubes and o rings, tensioner crush washers and o rings, oil plug crush asher 7. You will have to drain all the oil because when the engine is in the car, when the valve cover comes off, the residual oil will stat to come down, pool over the edges of the engine block. That needs to be sparkling clean for the new sealant 8. Header bolt on Bank 1-3 nearest to coolant hose is difficult to remove because the socket head is too big and the header tube doesn't provide ample clearance. 9. Pre-treat all exhaust bolts with penetrant like PB Blast a day or two before. be very liberal. 10. Fabricate the tensioner compressor tool using a M5 x .80 reverse / left handed die (2000 + models. Only before 1999 was right handed thread). Trust me, tie wraps are a PITA because you need to buy the correct ones for the amount of tension and they need to fifth through the top and bottom holes (top holes are larger in diameter than bottom threaded holes). I ended up using a large Dewalt padded 6" vise to compress and carefully hold while removing and replacing but this is not ideal. These are just a few off the top of my head and here's the before and after on the chain pads / brake pads: Many thanks to @JFP in PA
Txs JFP. Truly a great contributor here. Dug around some more on the threads and started to piece together some info and replies from you on other threads. For those landing on this thread, here are some helpful links on how to do this: To change chain pads / ramps and/or Camshaft on 996 Parts: reference Number and Exploded View of Camshaft Driving mechanism: http://www.porscheatlantaperimeterparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=471619 Testing / Camshaft Position Deviation Specification / Wear: Your cam deviation specs are +/- +6 degrees at idle; if your engine is at 11 & 15 degrees (cam deviation values) you have a more mechanical issue as your cam timing is way out of whack. As you car is a 2000, it is a five chain motor, meaning that it has an extra set of cam tensioning paddles between the two cams (note the small chain connecting the two cams with the green arrows, about half way between the two green arrows you can see the wear pad of the five chain tensioner): The small wear pads can literally fall apart, throwing the cam timing off (these are worn pads next to new ones): I would suggest rescanning the car, looking at the cam deviation values at idle When these pad get beat, the cam deviation values go way out of spec, and the car throws the code you are seeing. You would also find small yellow/brown plastic bits worn off the pads in both your oil filter and sump. If the sump contains green plastic bits, they would be coming from the VarioCam unit itself, which can also do this, but is much less common than the chain paddles. While you are rescanning the car, also activate the VarioCam solenoids one at a time at idle; you should hear a pronounced click, followed by a major movement in the cam timing, along with a big change in how the car idles; this will show you if the VarioCam solenoids and the units themselves are functional. You definitely have a timing problem, as your can deviation values are way out of spec at idle, which is before the VarioCam does anything. This is most likely the tensioner wear pad issue. Your VarioCam system is not activating on bank 2 (cam angle does not jump to over 20 degrees), so either the solenoid or the VarioCam unit itself is out. Did you hear the "click" I mentioned when you activated the VarioCam on bank 2? If not, I would start with that solenoid. In any case, you need to get to the source of the out of spec cam deviation values; your timing is far enough out that you could get into serious trouble if it moves further. This is going to require pulling cam covers to inspect the wear pads, which will need special cam holding tooling (the cam cover forms one half of the cam bearings, so a holding tool in needed to keep from potentially snapping the cam in half when the covers are removed). Replace with engine installed: Replace with Engine dropped: http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/615351-996-ims-timing-chain-guide-transmission-pinion-bearing-and-misc-items-diy-project.html http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Valve_Train_Repair/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Valve_Train_Repair.htm Parts and Part Numbers to Consider:
Txs for the prompt JFP. Since these have to be replaced, is it advisable to also replace the chains? Also, previous owner had done various mods to the car, would an aggressive cam swap generate these differences? Finally, replace the solenoid as well? FYI, no plastic residue or shavings on oil filter on recent oil change. Txs.
Hello all, New to P-Cars but not to engine rebuilds. Have done my share of SMB 350 rebuilds so not shy about what it takes. That being said, I just took ownership of a 2000 911 3.4L 996 with 99.5K miles. They had all service records demonstrating responsible care and appropriate service intervals. Like all cars, I like to do my due diligence to "reset the clock" (change oils, fluid, etc). I've read across many posts and all very informative, especially JFP! The first thing I did was put this on a Durametric and getting some data. Let me first say that I put it on the scanner because the car got a CEL after some vigorous driving and stopped at a light. The codes were P1128 and P1130. Thanks to this forum, I've already run some diagnostics and tests and they seem to point to the MAF. Some slight rough idle when codes were cleared and some slight surging. This corresponded with symptoms and readings. Now, as recommended here to check for possible IMS bearing issues I ran a diagnostic for the Camshaft position deviation 1 and 2 (NO Fault codes for this condition). After a brief 30 min vigorous drive up and down a main street, the readings at idle were: Camshaft position deviation 1 : - 10.02 Camshaft 2 : - 2.55 Angle for camshaft bank 1: 0.17 Angle for camshaft bank 1: 0.19 They held there rock steady throughout the drive with slight variation from cold start. According to this forum, this seems to be an indication of a possible chain tensioner pad replacement due. If this is the case, what else should I consider as "wear and tear" replacements and is this a DIY situation? Would I need adjust timing, special tools (besides camshaft tool), etc? Does anybody have a how to guide or is this available in the Factory Service Manual? If this is too complicated a task, what can I expect a small specialized shop to do this for? Also figure it might be a good time to do IMS... Many thanks in advance to all of you. Txs.