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PAULSPEED

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Everything posted by PAULSPEED

  1. PAULSPEED
    I used some vaseline. Works good. Paul
  2. PAULSPEED
    I have 325 on the rear and the 5mm spacers and they don't rub. Paul
  3. PAULSPEED
    I have never compressed a spring but I know it is dangerous. Be careful with your fingers. Do not rush yourself. Good luck. Paul
  4. PAULSPEED
    You know everything Loren. Looks like he needs to talk to our friend. RFM from Belgium France. He must know where to get used parts in Europe. Paul
  5. PAULSPEED
    Here is how it is done on the 996 side. http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/88-row-m030-sport-suspension-install/ ROW means the rest of the world. Paul
  6. PAULSPEED
    This place showed a 996 transmission last night on the TV. Here is there link. http://www.ladismantler.com/ Paul
  7. PAULSPEED
    I would also do a search in the 996 section. Paul
  8. PAULSPEED
    Here is a good diy on a older Porsche. The overall work is still the same on the newer cars. http://p-car.com/diy/sus/ Paul
  9. PAULSPEED
    I am one of those nuts who added shims in the lower a-arms to increase the camber more. Yes I go thru alot of tires. Paul
  10. PAULSPEED
    Your right again!!! The camber is what help reduce the push I had. Paul
  11. PAULSPEED
    Getting a track alingment will help with the push. Need to add as much castor as you can. The tires will wear out on the inside but the car will not push as much. Paul
  12. PAULSPEED
    I saw some dimensions once but they were metric. You can lite tape it and then stand back about 10 feet. Paul
  13. PAULSPEED
    Removing the side plates first should help let you see what else to take off. Paul
  14. PAULSPEED
    They peal off real easy. I would put some painters tape down first to align the letters. Paul
  15. PAULSPEED
    This part? Paul
  16. PAULSPEED
    Here is the location on the Porsche site. The only date I found was 08/09. http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/Owners_Manual_Turbo_PCNA.pdf Paul
  17. PAULSPEED
    It is held in with a circle clip. Part 16 in the picture is the clip. You might need a bent sharp ice pick to get it out. Paul
  18. PAULSPEED
    Trailer lighting is pretty simple. Just tap into the brake lights. Trailer companies sell a crimper that crimps the trailer light and the brake light at the same time. No need to splice wires. Paul
  19. PAULSPEED
    I think he is talking about part number 18. It looks more in the shape of a triangle. Paul
  20. PAULSPEED
    It is a San Francisco car. All he can hit is manhole covers and driveways. Wonder how many there are in San Francisco? Paul
  21. PAULSPEED
    Your pads look gone. I would buy new pads and see if they look strange. Most calipers are held on with two big bolts. Remove the caliper and pads, spread the opening and install the new pads. You might solve your blue and white clips once the brakes are removed. Paul
  22. PAULSPEED
    Looks like it pries out. You can always buy a new one from sunset imports. Then you will learn where to pry. Here is a picture. Paul
  23. PAULSPEED
    Here is how you remove the door trim. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/tutorials/article/7-door-micro-switch/ Paul
  24. PAULSPEED
    Look at a close up of the two bumpers. The head lights are somewhat different. You would need to buy a new bumper and do some bodywork to get the bumper to fit. Even then the parts may not line up just right. I suggest you buy a car with the lights. Paul
  25. PAULSPEED
    Somebody did the switch with the rear lights. You need to buy some module when you buy the rear lights. Search is your best friend. Paul
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