Scouser

Hi Loren, It's been too long..... Anyway, I changed my oil again today. Got slightly confused. Your instructions say re oil "9 each ", meaning of course 9 US Quarts of Oil. A US Quart is different to a Imperial (European) Quart so that's where the confusion is. Can I suggest you modify the instructions to say "9 US Quarts (or 8.51 Litres)". It would help us all across the pond. I've changed my oil so many times I should know it by now. But I just had to double check using your DIY page but then I got confused. Just FYI: 9 Imperial Quarts = 10.22 Litres which is way too much oil. 9 US Quarts = 8.51 Litres which is the correct amount. Cheers, Berny

I am soon to perform a face-lift conversion on my My00 996 cab. I just bought a set of litronic face-lift lights and a GT2 bumper. Looking now for the face-lift fenders. But I notice that my current headlamps MY00 slot into place in some form of fabricated plastic slots built within the fender. Do I need to order face-lift versions of these. If so what are the part numbers? Also, what are the part numbers for the air ducts I will require. The bumper didnt come with them although it is a genuine GT2 Bumper. Any help, pointers, hints and heads up apperciated. Cheers and TIA Berny

I replaced the blades thinking it was them. It's weird. They work fine normally. It's just when driving at high speed in heavy rain when its high wind. A gust will cause the blade to slip into the pillar. I know it sounds weird but I think it may be Rejex!

Finally got to tackle this last night. It was a pain to do as I had to remove the front bonnet then the black plastic bits (joing the battery cover) would not unscrew. I ended up busting the screw grommets. Will have to buy new ones. No big deal. But I checked the wiper nuts and all the wiper linkage nuts. They were all tight. So cant see anything wrong there. At speeds over 80mph if it is heavily raining the wiper occasionally bangs into the A pillar...especially if there is a gust of wind. Weird and annoying.

I'm going to put bets on it's your exhaust system resonating/ratling.

I have had one of my RMS done in under 5 hours. But 8 hours is typical. 16.5hrs is a rip off for sure!

Thanks Loren. I will try that tommorow. Will let you know.

Every now and then, my window wiper is crashing into my driver side (RHD) A piller when driving at speed. Anyone else notice this? Replaced the blade but problem persists.....

Could be MAF, plugs, leads, ignition coils too. Where did you take your car Phil. A good Porker indy shop would fix it no problems. Surprised they have run out of ideas....

Bingo! This is the very reason I asked the question. I did overfill my engine when I last changed my oil and it "bugs" me a little to see the dipstick read slightly over the high mark. If I could let a bit of oil out by removing the filter and pouring out the oil that is contained there, it might lower the engine level to the full mark. What is the consensus on slight overfill of oil on the M96 engines? I have heard opinions that it is harmless to opinions that you could cause RMS leak or IS seal leak. I believe that these seals are not under pressurized oil flow so how then could overfill lead to RMS leaks? Opinions and thoughts? Thanks for all the responses gang, Mike If it was me, I would unscrew the drain plug in the sump. leaving it in the thread but undoing it just enough to let the oil slowly drain. When you think you have drained enough, retighten the drain plug, wipe clean and bob's your uncle. A lot less messing about than messing with the oil filter. There is no way that overfilling will cause RMS or IMS leaks. The oil passing these seals is only at crank pressure. Besides if you overfill you lessen the compression not increase it. If its just a little overfilled then you will eventually just burn it out. You'l see a lot of blue smoke for a while. If its a lot overfilled then its not good at all. It's not recommended in either case really so you should drain the excess out regardless. But do it via the drain plug.......hmm....let me see, why would it be called a "drain plug"? ;)

Someones gotta ask. Why in the hell would you want to do that? In any case, I think the answer is no. There's 8+ ltrs of oil in there. Removing the oil filter while its full would be quite a funny sight.

I thought as much. Thanks David.

Kim thanks for the heads up. I appreciate it. However, I have figured most of this out after reading up on past threads. The parts list I am putting together is the face lift type which requires new fenders and bumper and obviously the headlamps. I know about the xenon wiring loom being a must if the xenon lights are to rotate. The is an additional problem here in the UK as we have dash switches/thumbwheel for headlamp leveling under load. So I am not sure what will be the outcome of this and I am researching it now. But what I really want to know and still havent got a clear answer for yet is "is there a difference between the teardrop lights found on a Turbo to the teardrop lights found on a non-Turbo". Will they fit? I have seen a few ebay auctions selling teardrop lamps from a Turbo and they have said in the text "to fit only the 996 Turbo model" inferring they dont fit a 996 C2 or C4 facelift only the Turbo. Why is this? This is the only thing I need to know. Cheers, Berny

Hmm.... Basically I have an option to purchase a set of 996 TT teardrop lights from a MY2003 car at a good price. I am putting together a facelift kit for my car (2000 996 C2). Just wanted to know if I could use them. Litronics would be cool. But washers I dont have.

Are the teardrop Turbo headlights the same as the standard teardrop headlights in as much as will the fit a 2002 996?

Just working out, I have done about 8 oil changes on my car since I have had it. Never once have I changed this sealing ring!

Rebore and new cylinder liners. There's an excellent article on this in April's (last month) 911 & Porsche World mag. The magazine outlines a company in the UK called Autofarm who have a solution for this which essentially is an engine rebuild. But the mechanism of using silsleeve inserts is well known in the Motorsport part of the industry. You should take your car to a decent independent and they can tell you more about it. Cost over here for a silsleev insert rebore is about £4000 therabouts. A full rebuild is double that. I truly hope youcan get this sorted without need this recourse. I do however agree and so do several very good independents here in the UK, that the NA 996 engine has too many problems to expect to get long term use with an SC fitted.

Steve, I hate to say it, but guys over hear who have had cracked cylinder liners experience similar problems. The car seems to run fine except at idle or low revs where it shakes, missfires etc. But in their case, the cars overheated as a result of coolant vapour escaping into the combustion chamber via the crack (and nobody seems to know exctly how the crack appears). Does your car overheat? But before I'd panic I would have them replace the HT & plug leads set, and replace the coil pack in the bad cylinder. Not sure what the SC does in the way of electrics/timing etc but could it be that? Anyway best of luck with it m8.

Just replaced mine. I used Sebro discs (rotors) and Textar pads. The Textar pads had the wear sensor holes already drilled in them.

I am fast loosing confidence in this smarttop unit. I have been considering buying one but I keep hearing about problems with it installed. Also is way too expensive here in the UK £175 = about $400!!

IMHO, you are lucky it started at all with a 6 year battery. Whether it turns out to be the problem or not you needed a new battery. Hey Loren...yup your right, so I will replace the battery tonight and report with results, hopefully my luck will continue and it will just be the battery. From what I've been reading taking out and replacing the battery is pretty straightforward. But are there any special or unique tools I need to do this? No. if its an exact same swap then its a 5 minute job.......dont forget to note your radio code ;)

Defo need a new battery. But you said it does crank over but doesnt catch. If the battery was dead or defective you would hear the cranking slow down and eventually after say 20 turns max it would die. If I am right then the new batter (despite the fact that its defo needed) will just mean you can crank the engine over for ages. You said you washed your car prior to this happening. How vigorous did you wash your car? Did you power spray it? Maybe get water into the electrics....MAF, plugs etc. Once I power cleaned the underneath of my car and in the arches and did it a bit over zealously. The car would not start. Thankfully I had a new battery. After about 10 separate goes cranking the engine with say an hour between goes it finally started. Spluttered....backfired......then after about 500yds ran smoothly. Has done ever since. Finally you kight want to check the fuse. I think its row 3 from the top, first fuse on the left. SHould be a 20amp fuse for ignition. If that's blown or loose your car wont start......and BTW, I remove that from my car when I go away on business.....just in case ;)

Thanks Loren. Thing is I have a 2nd chance buy on a set on ebay for about $30 !!!! But if they aint gonna fit...no good. Dont know if you can reach this linky.. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...item=4640641489 ACtually I just bought them anyway. I should be able to sell them back on ebay and make a few bucks ;) Total cost inc shipping was £16 !!

Loren, This part no. 997 111 352 01 is apparently for a set of twin pipe exhaust tips that will fit on a 996 OR a 997. Can you verify this for me? Anyonw have a picture of these tips? Cheers

Check out the above 996 at the end of this trailer: http://adisney.go.com/disneypictures/cars/...sec=3&subsec=13