Dennis Nicholls

The new flywheel bolts I recently purchased from Pelican, sold as genuine Porsche, had just a trace of blue stuff down the threads. I presume this was a light micro-encapsulation.

For locking the flywheel....I used a spare 10mm bolt into one bellhousing bolt hole and a 2 foot Harbor Freight pry bar inserted into a starter ring tooth gap. Previously I'd radiused the end of the pry bar to fit snugly into such a gap. Here it is in the "bolt torqueing" direction. The end of the pry bay is off the screen but supported by some blocks - the rotation of tightening pushes the handle end downwards.

With a smaller compressor....the tank size is the limiting factor. I had to make two "passes" with my compressor due to its 15 gallon tank. I got to about 22 then had to close the Airlift valve and let the tank repressurize. After that it went straight to 25 on the next pass.

Don't overdo the grease. Just a small amount on the splines is enough. You don't want grease being flung onto your clutch.

I bought a pair of bolts the size of the bellhousing bolts (12 mm IIRC), cut the heads off, and cut a slot on the ends for a screwdriver. These can be used as guides at the opposite sides of the bellhousing. You need to be able to turn the tranny input shaft to mate the tranny and engine. Unfortunately the diff is in the tranny. If you grab one flange and turn it, the other flange will counter-rotate. So you need to put a bolt in one flange so it fetches up against the case.

The airbox is not marked with any recycling symbols that I'm familiar with, such as these. But I did see in two places a suspicious marking "PP GF20". A google search "recycling PP GF20" turned up that it's polypropylene glass-filled 20%. So your idea was a good one. Dank je. Polypropylene is supposed to be difficult to glue. Some suggest JB Weld Plasticweld. There's a two-part superglue from Loctite that's supposed to work. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/sg_plstc/overview/Loctite-Plastics-Bonding-System.htm

So far I've only messed up two parts working on my Boxster: one exhaust clamp and the rear retainer clip on the air filter box. The black plastic tab broke as indicated by the red line. As I was forcing it at the time, it flew off to parts unknown. I bought a $50 used airbox assy. from a junkyard near Sacramento. Later on I discovered the missing tab and metal clip when pulling the tranny for the IMSB change. According to Wayne Dempsey, in order to remove/replace the airbox assy you have to PULL THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/23-FUEL-Cold_Air_Intake/23-FUEL-Cold_Air_Intake.htm This sort of makes replacing the airbox to cure a missing retainer tab a non-starter IMHO. Is Wayne right, or can you wiggle an airbox in and out without pulling the intake manifold? The alternative is to "glue" the plastic tab back into place, with possibly some extra reinforcements. I have a perfect example of an undamaged airbox sitting here which helps me plan. What kind of plastic does Porsche use for such an airbox? Is it ABS? Most plastics are friendly to certain glues and not so friendly to other types of glues.

I recall seeing a standard Snap-On fork was cited in the FSM, but I can't find the reference at the moment.

To make this DIY more easily searchable for American users, I'm putting in these words: Alternator Repair Replacing Voltage Regulator Andre is German so he uses "generator" and "control circuit".

It's odd that the regulator assy. doesn't show up in the PET, although Pelican lists it as 000 043 206 37. I wonder if Sunset can get the part under that number. Pelican's price is now $37.xx for my 2000 2.7l 5MT. None of my manuals show how to service the alternator which is odd. AWD, is it the standard way where you have to retain the brushes with a paperclip until you get the assy. installed? Here's a forum DIY...won't find on a search because he uses "generator" rather than "alternator" and "control circuit" rather than "regulator". http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/95-diy-change-of-the-generators-circuit-control/

Dragon, How many miles on your car? Brushs are a wear item. As an example, I took my Miata's alternator out at 156K miles. The brushes were close to the wear limit. I installed new brushes and a nice new SKF front bearing for $20 total and put the alternator back in. When brushes get short (in length) they don't load the springs as much, so the contact with the slip rings is less secure.

How does the DME report "supply voltage"? That sounds somewhat low. Bentley manual says voltage while running should be between 13.5 and 14.5 volts measured at the battery.

I'm getting ready to change my spark plugs. I've been reading up on the spark plug tubes and it makes sense at the least to change the two rubber O-ring seals. URO parts get no respect around here - probably for good reason. But I thought I'd step up and see what their spark plug tubes/seals are like. RockAuto sells them for $2.76 each, and that includes the plastic tube and both O-rings, purportedly made of Vitron (better grade rubber). Here's what came in the mail today: I'll compare the plastic tube with the OEM Porsche parts when I pull the latter. At least this gave me the opportunity of a bench top fit-check for my spark plug wrench and the rubber boat transom plug used for pulling the tubes. I'll reserve judgment on the plastic tubes but think that URO probably just buys bulk O-rings from someone standard. At this price it's the cheapest way to get the O-rings even if I have to toss the plastic tubes.

Rensho, I'm not sure how to answer your question....I peeled off the outer shield and it looks fine inside: some grease left. As far as I can tell it probably would have held up for a very long time. Now at 567 miles after upgrade, running better than ever.

Upon recommendation of a "glue expert", I used DAP Weldwood contact cement. This has held up well for the loose flap mentioned above. Apparently since wood is porous (veneer and wood substrate) this works better than super glue and retains some flexibility unlike epoxies. I've hit the surface cracks with tung oil, applied with a q-tip. This is a strange product halfway between a varnish and an rubbed-oil finish. After letting it set for a day or two I could remove the surface excess with a rag soaked in paint thinner. The tung oil should prevent moisture getting down the cracks and causing future problems, while darkening the cracks for appearance. I've just applied a second coat. This seems labor intensive but looks like the simplest (and cheapest) solution.

Bentley manual is for 986 years 1997 - 2004. It shows one relay panel there for all years, probably for 987 too. I can't post a page but can locate an individual relay for you. Layout from top left: Row 1 relays 1 - 5 Row 2 relays 6 - 10 Row 3 relays 11 - 16 Row 4 relays 17 - 22 Row 5 relays 23 - 28

We never did answer the OP's question about online tutorials. http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Change_Spark_Plugs_%26_Tubes.html Not IE friendly http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/07-ENGINE-Plugs_-_Coils/07-ENGINE-Plugs_-_Coils.htm

The maintenance schedule posted here: http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/porscheservice/maintenanceintervals/ says Boxster sparkplug changes at 2001 - 2004 48K miles/4 years 2005 - 2007 60K miles/4 years 2008 - 2010 40K miles/4 years. My 2000 Boxster maintenance booklet says 30K miles, no time limit given. The Bosch USA site says use the same sparkplugs, 7413, for both 2000 and 2001 Boxsters (2.7l and 3.2l). One theory is that the 2.7l and 3.2l engines were new designs in 2000 and Porsche's just being careful with that year's recommended service interval. .

Is your engine original? The 1997 engine had many more problems than just the IMS bearing: porosity, slipping sleeves, D-chunk failure. If it was replaced you have no idea what kind of IMS bearing yours contains. Does your engine serial number have an "X" near the front? After this morning's drive I've put on 400 miles since my IMS work. No funny noises so I feel I can declare a successful job.

My guess is the fluid is coolant. If your belt broke your water pump would quit turning and your engine would overheat very quickly - especially in Kuwait. Is it a pink fluid that feels slippery to the touch?

I have a "lifetime supply" jar of the Permatex silver anti-seize. Perhaps people run afoul using the brush inside the jar to apply it. That's way too much. I transfer a small amount onto a Q-tip and then onto the threads.

This was a full "home mechanic" job with the car up on 4 "6 ton" jackstands. See the photo in post #4 above. I bought the heavy-duty HF jackstands not so much for the weight rating but because their wider base seems more stable. The $2,200 quote sounds cheap. There's $1K+ of parts in there and I shopped for price (e.g. $300 LUK clutch kit from RockAuto).

I thought Porsche issued a tech bulletin advising not to use anti seize on "modern" plugs. IIUC modern heavy nickel-plating on the plugs prevents seizing in the aluminum threads as well as the old anti seize compound, while ensuring a great ground for the spark.

A note for those who don't know: GAHH bou8ght out the US maker Robbins a few years ago. People in the Miata forum have had good luck with these people. http://topsonline.com/model/Convertible_Tops_And_Accessories/Porsche/1997_thru_2002_Porsche_Boxster_And_Boxster_S_(986).html

I'm an former engineer so I prefer to work to a detailed checklist. I bought Dempsey's 101 Projects book but made up a binder for the checklist. I cut-and-pasted his on-line instructions into a word document, and copied into each hyperlink the full referenced text. Then when he not-helpfully says "assembly is the reverse of disassembly" I inserted a second copy and cut-and-pasted each step in reverse order. When you get to the "Dempsey set screw method" I inserted "jump to LN instructions here". I then copied the LN Engineering instructions (rev. 18 Jan. 2014) from the .pdf into another word document, changing the font and adding large spaces between the steps to make it easier to read and annotate. My notes are offered here for other's future use. 6. Lock cam(s) for bank 1, cylinders 1. 2. 3. Insert pick near center of the green plastic plugs because they contain a metal washer you can't pick through. Cam locks need an M8mm by 1.25mm thread by 20mm long bolt to attach. 15. The LN supplied center flange nut can be spun with a 12 point 11mm socket, or even a 7/16" box wrench. The "spare" o-ring is called that because there's one already installed inside the LN hub flange (hidden). 19. To install a sprio-loc, don't try starting the inside end and then spinning the spiro-loc into position. This won't work. Instead start the inside end and hold it with your finger, going around the stationary spiro-loc with a small screwdriver pushing it into place a bit at a time. 20. Sold in plumbing supply places is clear silicone grease as an o-ring lubricant. 21. The LN supplied bolts take a "female Torx" driver size E10. 22. Wicking (green) Loctite is Loctite 290. Hard to find: google led me to a model helicopter shop that sold it cheap. 23 I replaced the funny green rubber o-rings along with the metal sealing rings. The old green rubber O-rings were as hard as plastic. 24. Before installing new green cam plugs, remove crank and cam locks, spin crank twice 360*, re-insert crank and cam locks as timing check. Then remove locks and install new cam plugs. 23. It was suggested that I NOT install new case bolts without any specific reason, and I didn't. 28 Pull fuel pump fuse and turn over engine to built oil pressure prior to actually starting the engine. Fuse location varies from year to year and you need to look in the Bentley manual section 97 for tables of fuse locations.