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Dennis Nicholls

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Everything posted by Dennis Nicholls

  1. I spoke too soon. I bought a 26 mm deep socket from eBay as nobody has them locally. It's a Blackhawk UW-526M, where Blackhawk is Proto's budget line. Today the LN filter adaptor arrived, and I tried a fit-check of the socket onto the adaptor. No go. My analog caliper says the LN adaptor's nut size is bigger than 26 mm. Looks to my failing eyesight to be about 26.52 mm instead. The Blackhawk socket measures oversize a bit too at about 26.46 mm, but most sockets are generally a bit larger than nominal size. I suppose I can go down to Lowe's and try some of their deep sockets to find one that more-or-less fits. I'm thinking maybe 27 mm or 1 1/16" sizes. I calculate that 1 1/16" is 26.98 mm. Did anyone else have this problem installing the LN filter adaptor?
  2. Biggest hassle for me with the LN spin-on adaptor was getting a 26mm deep socket....it's an oddball size. Too bad they didn't design it for the much more common 27mm sockets.
  3. Actually there's no sign of RMS problems and my clutch is working just fine. The whole reason for the "pull the tranny" exercise is to determine "for sure" whether I have a single row or dual row IMS bearing.
  4. Most cars I've worked on before have TWO oil bypass valves. One in the oil pump, to limit cold start oil pressure to something like 80 psi. This valve dumps oil back into the sump. One in the oil filter, to bypass the filter element if it gets clogged. This valve opens if there is a pressure drop across the filter element. I guess the thinking is dirty oil is better than NO oil.
  5. I've had my 2000 base 986 for two months now. I've put on a little over 1K miles since I've owned it. Present mileage is 52K. So far I've performed the following checks. - Changed and inspected the oil filter twice at 600 mile intervals from the last oil change. Filters look good with no metal debris. - Durametric reports over-rev R1 4023 and R2 0 (zero). Sounds good to me. - Engine serial number has a "Y" in it, indicating "most likely" a dual row IMSB. - Cleaned and scrubbed the "weep hole" where the engine mates with the tranny. I wanted to get the old brown cosmoline off the area so I could more easily detect any oil leaks if present. So far no signs of oil there at all. - Last week's Durametric readings of camshaft position deviation are as follows: -- Cam pos dev bank 1 -4.42* at idle and 2K rpm -- Cam pos dev bank 2 -4.25* at idle and 2K rpm I drove the car 20+ miles before the test so the engine was fully warmed up. In both cases I watched the graph and numeric display for a minute or so and there were no changes in the numbers reported. These aren't "good" numbers but IIUC they aren't "terrible" numbers either, as the spec is purportedly +/- 6*. I'll keep a log of the deviations with age and mileage to see if there are any rapid changes. Anything else I should check now? I'm putting off the "pull the tranny" exercise until summer since my age makes working in cold weather difficult. I've got a new clutch and RMS, and have a spin-on filter adapter on order.
  6. So is the reason Porsche went with a cartridge type filter mostly to support long oil change intervals? :confused: Before buying my Boxster, I hadn't seen one in ages....since I sold my last old British sportscar years ago.
  7. Would it make sense to get a replacement OEM plastic housing if the original is still in use after many years? I'd guess the bypass valve may get sticky with age/debris. Or perhaps use shop air to "back blow" the valve and dislodge any contaminants. Until the weather improves etc. and I can perform a IMS bearing upgrade this summer, I'm just checking the paper filter at short intervals (i.e. every 600 miles).
  8. I bought my Boxster from a dealer, and one point I negotiated was that they would supply me a second key as part of the purchase. Their cost was probably minimal (and wholesale) and it saved me the $400 quoted price if I had purchased one. Too bad the Durametric software can't program a key for you.
  9. The OEM bearing is a crap shoot....I've often wondered whether it's caused by some "counterfeit bearings" entering Porsche's supply chain. IIUC Porsche purchases intermediate shafts, including the bearing, as an assembled subassembly from suppliers. And now OEM IMSB supplier NSK has come forth with their discovery of counterfeit bearings going around in Germany during those particular years. http://www.nskeurope.com/cps/rde/xchg/eu_en/hs.xsl/resolving-of-counterfeit.html Maybe the real NSK bearings don't fail but the fake NSK bearings do. This would explain the seemingly random failures observed.
  10. First of all this subforum "top issues" is NOT for "most important issues" but rather for "convertible TOP issues". There is no way to tell by serial numbers etc.whether a 2000 or 2001 car has a dual row or single row IMSB. They are mixed up. See my post about how the LUK clutch kit contains a Sachs clutch. I got mine for $299 shipped from Rock Auto.
  11. I just ordered a 550000 for $92 shipped - Amazon warehouse deal, "open box" type deal.
  12. Pedro has a tutorial for using the UView Airlift to fill a 986 Boxster. http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Flush_Coolant_System.html As you pointed out in another forum, the Airlift sucks out the air but not the coolant. I presume this is because air is a compressible fluid whereas coolant is an incompressible fluid. My trusty Sanborn compressor puts out 4.2 SCFM at 90 psi which ought to be enough.
  13. Sorry I was making a joke. I looked up patents with UView as assignee. They got a few, named inventor Thomas Klamm. Base patent 6,152,193 issued 28 Nov. 2000 with apparatus claims. There's a continuation with method claims and a CIP too. Cheapest I've found for UView 550000 is $110 shipped at ToolTopia.
  14. How can the UVIew Airlift be any good if Harbor Freight doesn't sell a cheap knock-off copy?
  15. Thanks. I've got the green, orange, red, and purple arrow hoses on order - might as well change them all since most of the labor is refilling and "burping" the cooling system.
  16. It's just that on other cars I've worked on the thermostat housing is for a hot water outlet, not a cooler water inlet. But the green arrow hose is the outlet, right?
  17. The coolant hoses in my car are original, as evidenced by the factory cosmoline overspray on them. Presently only the "green arrow" hose on the Pelican photo looks to be getting droopy and bulging. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/29-WATER-Flush/images_large/Pic2.jpg According to the flow diagram on page 19-2 of the Bentley manual, that's actually the hot coolant outlet from the engine going forward to the radiators. It would make sense it's the first hose to go bad as it's large (therefore heavy) and carries the hottest coolant. But this would make the "orange arrow" hose, connected at the thermostat, the return hose that carries warm coolant back from the radiators. Wouldn't this make the thermostat close down, thus making the cooling system not functional? :huh: I found this simplified cooling system diagram searching on line. http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/radiator/photos/coolant_flow.png If this is correct there's some kind of "side door" to the thermostat that lets hot coolant in directly from the engine. Is this how it works?
  18. That's an interesting photo. What's holding the toothed starter ring - is that for an auto tranny car? My question is whether you can see enough of the IMS flange, with the flywheel still attached, to determine whether it's a single row or double row IMS bearing. From your photo it would appear the answer is "yes". I'm convinced that there's no way to tell without pulling the tranny whether my 2000 986 has the double row IMSB (most likely) or a single row IMSB (random chance). I can't even order parts until I get that far. But if I can just pull the tranny back a few inches and shine a flashlight up there, could I see which IMSB I have? I.e. shallow or deep-dish IMS flange.
  19. I got the best deal from USA Bearings and Belts too when I rebuilt an alternator. I got a real SKF bearing shipped for about $12. They have sizes for stock IMS bearings too if you want to press your luck... http://www.usabearingsandbelts.com/m7/5204--5204-2rs-5204-zz-premium-double-row-ball-bearings-20x47x20-6.html
  20. They probably get US spec "carb cleaner" in BC which is pretty drastic stuff. Better to use throttle body cleaner which is not destructive of organic liners put into throttle bodies as a butterfly seal. Is this stuff called "carb cleaner" generically in the UK?
  21. When you say "rollers" are you talking about the two idlers and one tensioner pulleys? It's really strange how big companies can't build decent waterpumps. Over on the Miata forum everyone reports that Bosch water pumps fail quickly, and that the OEM supplier GMB should be used. It's too bad that Bosch or Gates can't make decent water pumps for Porsche.
  22. Mav is in Australia....different rules may apply about "what model year" a car could be titled as. IIRC it was the US that started assigning model years that were a "fiscal year" where cars built in late MY - 1 would be titled as a MY. IIRC in Europe generally cars were titled as to the actual build date, although this may have changed. I know this was a headache in my Austin Healey days.
  23. This may be a dumb question, but.... Why would a failing IMSB cause an oil leak at the IMS flange? It's not as though there's pressurized oil there - more's the pity. Does the IMSB start vibrating which causes the flange seal to leak?
  24. I'm ordering up parts for my IMS bearing inspect/replace job. Since I have to take off the clutch I may as well install a new one - I'm at 51K miles already. I never got a straight answer about the LUK clutch kit although comments elsewhere said they were reboxed Sachs kits. So I went ahead and ordered the 20-016 kit from RockAuto - was $298 shipped with their 5% coupon. Box arrived today. I can confirm it contains a Sachs "made in Germany" disc and pressure plate. Kit also includes release bearing, pilot bearing, tube of grease, and alignment tool. Kit supposedly fits all non-S 986/987 Boxsters. And the cost is the cheapest I've seen for an stock clutch replacement kit.
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