Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Our 986's are 5 years older now; my 2000S has 62,000 miles on the clock and has been shifting poorly for some time. It had second gear popouts when cold, notchy shifts everywhere else. I changed the motor mount to some effect, but the mount wasn't completely degraded like some of that age, so the difference wasn't huge. I then changed the transmission fluid since it was 15 years old, but I didn't notice any difference in the shifting. I finally decided to upgrade to the 997 shifter and man, it shifts better than it did when I bought it with 8000 miles on it. UPGRADE TO THE 997 SHIFTER IF YOU HAVE A 986! That is all...
You'll be glad you replaced it; mine crapped out at 58,000 miles. It's a dual-row, 2000 S. If it goes out completely and trashes the motor, your car is basically a boat anchor at that point.
Just a "heads up". My dual row IMS failed at 58,000 miles. If I had the transmission off for whatever reason I'd certainly upgrade the IMS. It's just not worth the gamble. Luckily, I replaced mine just before catastrophic failure, but I still don't know how much damage was done from the tiny bits of metal that flaked off the bearings before I caught it.
Thanks, txhokie4life, I just did my 6th oil change and installed LN Engineering's Spin-On-Filter Adapter; no more bypassing of oil. No particles found on the mag plug and nothing in the filter. I think I'll do one more change in a couple hundred miles and then declare victory. The thing is either going to grenade on me or not. I think I've done all I can.
Can you post a pic? I have a 2000 S also, and I've never seen the wood option. Also, the toughest glue I've seen for anything like so far is Gorilla Glue. You can apply a tiny amount and wet it a bit with water. You just have to make sure you keep the glued area clamped down while its drying because the glue expands. You just cut off the excess with a sharp knife. Devin
Changed the oil today; didn't see any metal on the magnetic drain plug or on the filter (at least with the naked eye). I'm going to drive it a couple hundred miles and change it again and see what it looks like. It has now been changed 4 times. Devin
Continuing to run and engine with a prior failed IMS is a total crap shoot, some make it, but many do not. The M96/97 engine design has a lot of small "pockets" in the oil system where debris can lurk for a long time before breaking loose and circulating through the system; and it only takes one particle in the wrong place to start a cascading disaster scenario. Your best bet is lots of oil & filter changes (you can use non synthetic oil for this, and a spin on filter, magnetic drain plug, and magnetic pad wrapped around the filter would be advisable as well). Good luck........ JFP, I have a magnetic drain plug, but what are my options for a spin-on filter? Would that require the LN spin-on adapter? Also, I've never heard of the magnetic wrap. Where would I source that? Thanks, Devin PS: My condolences to your brother; I was a divorce attorney many moons ago... :)
Thanks JFP, That's my plan at this point. Silver, the bearing was still together with all the balls still working, but they were a bit scratchy. The picture of the sludge on the bearing is what collected on the outside of the seal.
The difference in metallic debris between the second and third flushes was huge (the third filter looked like fresh oil), but he told me that at one of the classes he attended they said that 7 or 8 flushes would be optimal (even though LN doesn't publicly recommend retrofitting an engine with ANY metal debris). I'm just going to keep doing it until its pristine, assuming it lasts long enough. I'll be out $50 in oil and whatever a filter costs each time, but that still beats the cost of a new engine. I can only hope for the best, I suppose.
Just a word to the wise; I have a 2000 Boxster S USA that started leaking oil a few months ago. I finally got around to taking it in to have it looked at and it turned out that my IMS bearing was failing. I didn't have "chunks" of metal in the oil, but there was what appeared to be glitter in the oil filter. It doesn't appear that the motor is ruined--yet. But you never know. I opted to go ahead with the LN Retrofit and my mechanic ran the car and drained the oil 3 times (until no metal was evident) and I'm going to drain it again this weekend and check it (he also installed a magnetic drain plug). The bearing was still together albeit a bit wobbly. I wouldn't have gone much further before my car became a boat anchor. Bottom line, don't screw around with an oil drip hoping it's just the Rear Main Seal; I gambled (or screwed around) and nearly lost. This was a dual row bearing, which may have saved my car, but they they fail, too. I have attached a picture of the bearing, on which can be seen a paste of metallic bits. Also shown is the IMS tube, which escaped damage as the bearing had not completely failed. My mechanic and I felt the risk of repair was worth taking (although I signed a waiver acknowledging that I knew the new LN bearing could also fail due to the metal in the oil system), because $3800 beats paying God-knows-what for a new motor for a 15 year old car. (The price included a new clutch and rear CV joint rebuild among other things.) Be proactive, and if you're looking to buy an M96-97 motored vehicle, just add $3000 to the purchase price. Devin
+1 on the Dawn method. I used one-half Dawn dish soap and one-half water in a spray bottle, let it sit for a few minutes and used a soft brush and low water pressure to scrub/rinse. This was the first time I'd ever washed the engine (2000 S model, 53K miles) and it looks new. No water got in the cabin and if you slosh it around the sides it goes down the drain holes. Didn't pay any attention to the alternator and the car started right up. I guess I'll wash it in another 13 years or so.
It releases at a high point in the travel and the pressure is a bit higher, but not uncomfortably so. What's odd is that it changes after running it hard for a few seconds--the release seems smoother and the pressure is not as high. That's why I can't seem to figure it out. If it was always hard to push the pedal down (and once again, it's not terribly hard, just enough that I notice) then I would just assume the clutch plate was bad. I have just never run across a situation where the pressure seemed to be variable.