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About Gator

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  • From
    Key West, Fl
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    2000 996 C2 w/Tiptronic, PSM
    1953 MG TD

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  1. To answer your question, "it is complicated." I purchased the car in 02. The front clip upgrade was done in 04 or 05 after a 'perfect' accident. Nothing important bent, just managed to ding every single thing on the front end. Insurance paid for it and I just told the service manager, "let's order 04 parts." and he said, sure. So that part of the equation is nebulous. (that, btw, was a 35k job.) I got the rear clip off of a guy around 2012 or so. It was the proper color and for maybe 300 bucks, I got the bumper and all of the assessory parts (exhaust, shields, etc) I needed to do a proper update back there. I also did the interior. I think around 2010. So I also have an 04 interior with glove box, later center vent system and full leather interior. For this latest job, I got the parts from Suncoast. 4.2k for the wing and rockers, I think. I also bought about 1.5k of rubber, etc. to make sure things looked good. You can check it with them. Best prices for parts that I have found. The paint job was around 15k or so. Some of this was insurance, so the total is a bit fuzzy but I think about 15k would get this done. Not counting any parts or updates. Hope this answers your question. p.s. I thought about the wheels but my rubber is really new. I will likely update the rims to proper gt3 style when I need new rubber.
  2. Took a couple of months but picked up my baby yesterday. I had Porsche replace the AC unit (the whole unit under the dash.) They also refinished the calipers and headlights. I then took it over to Stuttgart International (near Miami). They are Porsche trained and certified. They fixed some dog bites (yes, my dog bit my car chasing lizards. She survived but she knows better now.) Four panels were involved in the biting event but I had Stuttgart shoot the rest of the car as well and also had them add the Aero II rocker panels and rear wing. (I had the Aero II front bumper added about 10 years back when I updated the front clip after an accident.) I also had Stuttgart do the wheels. Basically the whole outside of the car has been done. I think Stuttgart did an amazing job. The car looks new all around including door jambs and hood/trunk seams. Panel & door alignments seem flawless. Hoping to keep her around for another 16 years or so. btw, I am not affiliated with Stuttgart at all nor did I get anything from posting this. I just really like the job they did. This is the second large body job that I've had performed by a Porsche certified shop and I don't think I'd take my car anywhere else (but I do hope this is the last time for a while.)
  3. I suspect there are a number of threads that will provide a lot of insight to this question (search is always my friend), but it happens that I was brousing just last evening through the Enhancing Performance chapter (chapter 11) in Adrian Streather's 996 The Essential Companion. I don't think I've seen many references to Adrian's book on this site, and as it is fresh in my mind, I'll share his thoughts. In the perforance chapter he reviews a number of potential modifications. In the Turbocharger sub-section (pg 535) he states: "The normally aspirated, fully water-cooled enginers types M96/01/02/04 and the 03 are not suitable for turbocharging, so this type of modification should never be considered; in theory a 996 GT-3 type M96/76/79 could be turbocharged." Unfortunately, he doesn't outline specifically why. In the Supercharger section on the following page he does admit that supercharging is a viable option for the fully water cooled engines but points to the significant costs and suggests one read and fully understand the warranty. A number of times in the chapter, Adrian points to cost, risk, and what you may or may not get in return for your money and suggests one just buy a 996 Turbo car instead. For what it is worth, I feel the same way. btw, I have really enjoyed this rather sizable book and recommend it to all 996 owners.
  4. My antivirus app (Norton) is giving me the following when I attempt to access this site: "Malicious Web Site Blocked You attempted to access: http://www.flat6innovations.com/shop/home.php?cat=399 This is a known malicious web site. It is recommended that you do NOT visit this site." Just thought I'd pass this warning on. GA
  5. I took a look in the shop manual. Attached are the pages for assembling the spoiler. One page is the drawings/pictures the second page is the instructions. Possibly these will help. GA 996_deck lid - pics.pdf 996_deck lid - instructions.pdf
  6. I forgot to mention: if you do unplug the seat, don't turn on the ignition. If you do, the airbag system will fault out and your airbag light will come on and you'll need to reset it. (there are a number of posts dealing with that, just do a search). enjoy, GA
  7. Phillip, If I understand your problem: you insert your key, try to turn it but cannot. You wiggle the wheel, the key and finally the key turns and the car starts but it doesn't seem like wiggling the wheel really helps. I've not had this problem but if I were troubleshooting this problem, I'd break it down as a) key, B) key slot and c) wheel lock mechanism. your description seems to preclude "c". I would then focus on a and b. if you haven't yet, try another key. does that help at all? if not, you focus should be on the key slot. perhaps lubricant will help (I'd do some searches to see what kind of lubricant is recommended) good luck, GA
  8. about the connector: I don't know the part number but I compared 99 and 04 schematics. Both indicate a 6 pin connector (only 3 wires used). The 04 wiring diagrams include a page with connectors and part numbers. I am attaching that. Perhaps you can get your hands on the sensor and look at the connector page and match them up. about routing the wiring: the wiring diagrams indicate that wiring to the rear sensor routes to the rear (engine) wire loom via the X2/3 connection. I would locate the correct position for the sensor and just route the wires the best way I could figure out. about the rear sensor location. On my 2000, I have holes in the suspension where the sensors mount (I added the lights to my car and thought about but haven't installed the sensors, so I kind of know your situation). My concern is that your car (according to your bio, is a 98.) It does not look like the 98 had the 601 option. You might not have the holes which is why you are having difficulty figuring this out. about the diagnostic connection. I installed full power seats in my baby. when I did, I wired up the memory and mirror functions. for kicks I ran the diagnostic wire to the diag connector per the wiring schematic. Next time I connected my PST2, it recognized the seats and I could operate them via the PST2. A pleasant surprise. I just occured to me as I reviewed this, that my front wire loom should have the connector you are looking for. I will try to take some time tomorrow and try to find it and share the part number with you. good luck. Glenn 04 996 connectors.pdf
  9. There are two aspects to removing the seat cushion: a) seat cushion attachment. the cushion itself is secured by two brackets. They are located on the front underside of the cushion. The brackets each have a peg that you need to pull out (I usually use pliers). Once the pegs are out (btw, they are secured to the base of the bracket by a strand of plastic), you need to pop the bracket out. I usually use a larger flat head screwdriver to do this. The bracket is hinged on the front of the seat so you need to get leverage from under the seat. Also, the bottom seat cushion has the seat controls in it. some times the two little phillips screws on the bottom of the seat control panel need to be removed in order to pull the seat cushion out. B) wiring. the seat cushion has wires routed along the frame and secured via various wire management clips. These can be a pain to find. The wired terminate in the main seat connector underneath the seat. Depending on what you are doing, you might have to pull wires/pins out of the main seat connector to remove the seat cushion from the rest of the seat. This brings me to a suggestion. I usually find it is easiest to pull the seat out of the car in order to do any work on the seats. To pull the seat you'll need to remove the plastic rail covers on the front rails, then remove the four star bolts (2 under the seat front and 2 rear). I have full power seats so I usually move the seat forward and rearward to remove the bolts. when I am done removing the bolts, I then center the seat. Once the seat is centered, I tilt the whole seat back. This provides me excellent access to the underside of the seat. Most of the time, this is enough access. When it isn't, I pull the seat out of the car and pul it on my workbench. Hope this helps. GA
  10. sorry, didn't notice the GT3 lable. here is the correct schematic (in case you still need it.) GA 996 2001 C2 DME wiring diagram.pdf
  11. I saw a wiring diagram for 997 seats a while back. The seat wiring included CAN connections. I have Adaptive seats in my Mercedes. The seat system includes a separate controller that figures out what the vehicle is doing and gives the seat the information it needs to adapt to driving conditions. I believe this communication is done via what Mercedes calls the Most system which seems to be similar to the CAN system found in Porsches. Perhaps, the seats are expecting driving information from the car that they can "adapt to" and that you need connections as well as the devices on the other end for your seats to talk to for the adaptive portion of the seat to work.
  12. see attached diagram. enjoy, 996 2001 DME wiring diagram.pdf
  13. I got the Cats in from Oklahoma Foreign on Friday. Was too busy this weekend but was able to put them in today. After extensive test drives a review of my PSTII outputs indicate that Readiness status is perfect and no errors in evidence. I'll continue to monitor. A couple of notes: 1. Oklahoma sent me a very nice looking set of Cats. Very clean. Even the bracket and cuffs were included but, most importantly, the studs facing the headers were in great shape. All I needed to do was pop over to my local auto shop and purchase new flange nuts (M8 x 1.25) and was good to go. (btw, even if the nuts were included, I would have replaced them.) all in all, I'm very pleased with my purchase from Oklahoma. 2. I found the job to be very straightforward. I believe you'll find it to be a 2-3 hour leasurely job. I didn't bother to put the car on my lift. Nor even raise it with a jack. I had great access to the Cats by removing the bumper and heat shield panels on the rear and sides. You'll also need to remove the air filter cannister so you can disconnect the sensor cables. btw, I removed the Cats without removing the mufflers but this made the nuts on the Cat/header connection flange a little trickly to access. I found that using a 6 point socket for a sure grip, a u-joint to get the right angle, and appropriate sized extensions did the trick. The one tool I found very handy was a crowfoot type socket that I had picked up in anticipation of just replacing the sensors from my local Snap on tool man. Possibly I could have done the job without it but it made loosening the sensors very easy. The socket type/part number is SWR2. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=74621&PartNo=SWR2&group_id=1448&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all GA
  14. Yeah, I did that last night. $350 for the pair. Warrantied not to throw the errors. So, I pulled the trigger. We'll see. Thx, GA
  15. Dammad, I saw your original post on this. Did you look at the DIY that Loren pointed you to? Lot of good info there. To answer your specific questions. Yes, your 99 Tip is just like Eric's as well as mine (a 2000). Your differential is separate from the transmission. The differential is on the drivers side of the transmission. If you get under the car. Looking at the transmission from the drivers side. The differential is the housing that is between the transmission and the drivers side rear wheel drive shaft. The differential housing is round, about 12 inches in diameter. If you look at the 9 o'clock area of the face of the housing, you'll see a plug with an allen head cut into it. That is the fill plug for your differential. There is no drain plug. You change the fluid by sucking it out and then refilling it. I've attached the page from the shop manual that describes the diff fluid change. The picture/drawing in the middle of the page is looking at the transmission from the drivers side of the car from in front of the rear tire. This is not covered in your owners manual. GA Tipronid differential fluid change.pdf
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