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por986

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Everything posted by por986

  1. Loren, Thanks for the reply. So I have seen the CRC MAF cleaner posted and it is also mentioned in Mike's tutorial, but my local AutoZone only had the CRC QD electronics cleaner which many have reported to have used. In his tutorial, Mike goes on to state that the MAF cleaner was possibly just a rebranding/naming of the one I have used and that others have reported no diff. Any other thoughts? More importantly, do you think the haze will be a problem?
  2. Hi, I followed Mike's tutorial on cleaning the MAF and when I removed the sensor, the wiring (specifically the paperclip looking one) was very shiny. After applying the cleaner and letting it dry, there appeared to be a light white haze left behind. Is this normal?
  3. Just in case you haven't, have you taken the spare off and looked behind it? My key was in the Styrofoam backing behind it.
  4. Does your alarm work? turn the key to unlock, then engage/disengage the alarm.
  5. -I have polk audio in the dash (love them) - I cut out the original speakers and used its frame to mount them. -I have Harvey's kit in the rear. -I have Kicker 8" subs in the doors - this required minor metal cuts in the doors and dyno-matting the entire door if you want to do it right.
  6. In my State, city (TX), the options are listed on the back of the ticket and/or a number is listed that will give you the info you need. You show up at the station, plead No Contest and let them know you want to take defensive driving. Sign up for the comedy one and they often make the 6 hours go by faster and give you pizza :-\
  7. For what it is worth, I have the same year S and HAD the same radio configuration with the exact same problem. Upon inspection (over and over), I found nothing. Finally, I took the opportunity/excuse to replace my headunit, dash and door speakers, along with the amp. I ended up replacing the dash with Polk Audios, and putting 8" subs in the doors. :-\
  8. For what it is worth, my car started making a knocking noise at 44K. It turned out to be my clutch - suspect is the throwout bearing. I was not knowledgeable enough to realize that the clutch was getting harder to press as I just assumed that is what it was supposed to feel like. I guess I never noticed it changing over time. The dealer and an indie shop both said it felt much to stiff. Dealer in South TX quoted $1900, and an indie is willing to do it for $1100. I have yet to replace it, but it will be changed very soon. I have recruited some friends and we are going to tackle it ourselves - cost for parts (if all goes well) is approx. $450.
  9. That is classic. Luckily when it happened to me my wife wasn't with me. But I tell you what, I went through the whole "Oh geez, I hope I don't have an electrical issue; gotta run home and find the fuse mappings, ..blah blah" - I am not mechanically/'automotivly' inclined, so it worried me for sure. Phew! Glad that my experience helped you out.
  10. Hey there, I have a 2001 but the exact same thing happened to me the other night, and I realized that I only had my fog lights on. If this is the case, you cannot turn on the brights unless you pull back on the stalk - exactly the same behavior as you described. With the low beams on, it works as expected. So, check that first just to make sure!
  11. I had that happen unexpectedly on my radio swap, and ToolPants provided the answer ... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...hl=por986+radio If you have the factory radio, I presume you might be able to remove the plastic insulator to get the desired effect - not sure what if any ramifications there are, so maybe someone will provide more details.
  12. Hey, I have a similar issue. Mine started when I replaced my stereo. I still haven't resolved it, but I have learned to live with it for now. When I set the alarm , I get a beep (this is due to the stereo contact as was pointed out in my thread), and then the interior lights come on and then fade out. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...=stereo+contact
  13. Thanks guys for the fast response. ToolPants, I will try your suggestion tomorrow, thanks! kbrandsma, Are you talking about the same thing as ToolPants, or is there some other contact? Also, does this effect the security or the "system" negatively? If I do nothing, is it something that I can safely ignore?
  14. Hi, '01 S 46Kmiles I disconnected my battery to work on my stereo - I have done this in the past to work on speakers, but this time I replaced the head unit and installed a new amp (removing the HAES). After reconnecting the battery, all seemed normal until I sst the alarm. Everytime I set it by pressing the lock button on my key, the parking/signal lights blink twice (as normal), but after about 1.5 seconds, the horn beeps once and the intertior light comes on for about 2 seconds then dims out. It behaves like I was setting it to bypass the interior sensor by pressing the lock 2x. I checked the center console, it is closed. I verified that all doors, hood, trunk, are all closed. No water under the seats (never as far as I know), bone dry. Any ideas what might be going on? Thanks!
  15. ::BUMP:: "Do you have any pics of this lexan enclosure? " - or some instructional advice? I have two ssm8's sitting here and trying to figure out how to mount them.
  16. My 01 S chirps/squeeks due to a clutch bearing. If I depress the clutch, the chirping stops.
  17. Well it is all in my head right now, no measurements made, but I am going to see if I can use the upper space in the footwell in anyway. I also looked at 6" JL subs (.25 cuft airspace required each). I believe if done right, the 6" might fit in a custom rear storage area. 3.5 inch mounting depth.
  18. Mine 01 did the same thing the other day. It started a few days after my wife opened the door while we were driving. What I did was make sure the window went all the way up and stayed up for a few minutes, then I pulled the handle just enough to trigger it to drop an inch (door still closed), and then released the handle - window went back up. It hasn't done it again since (fingers crossed).
  19. "since I'm producing these in mass quantity " What do you mean? Are you making and selling these sub enclosures in mass? I was thinking of also mounting my subs between the seats with a fiberglass enclosure, but no necessarily that design. Interesting.
  20. I got the polks through Crutchfield. They had a buy one set get the second at half off deal. BTW, for anyone buying dash speakers from them, with my order I mentioned to them that I heard that spacers had to be fitted for the dash install, and at no charge, they shipped blank plastic pieces with instructions on how to make my own spacers supposedly. We will see when they get here. For the amp(s), I have an old school RF Punch 160x4 that will run 2ohm stable. I am thinking of doing something a bit different than most (now that I am not going to buy a 5 or 6 channel necessarily).... Run my dash and PNP rears off of the stock HAES 4 channel, and full doors (no crossover) and 2 crossed-over 8"polk or JL Audio off of the RF. It might not be the acoustically balanced setup, but I think that the full doors will fill it in nicely. Maybe too much, but we will see. I can always drop a High pass fillter in if need be. I will follow your new post and see what direction you go.
  21. Well I don't know what to make of this amp or the seller for that matter. He claims it is from a Mercedes 996. :unsure: here it is... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=280161113376 Juniinc... I bought 4" Polk Audio db 401 for the dash, and Polk Momo MMC 525 5-1/4" for the doors - not high end by any means, but a good upgrade for the money I believe. How are the Polk 8"s, I am interested in those? So you are running them in series? Almost everything I read says to avoid that due to the draw on the amp, the altenator, etc. and other potential problems. Can you shed some light on this?
  22. Great, thanks for the save;) I was trying to repalce my 01 amp (4 channel) with a 6 channel to better run my PNP rears and keep things somewhat stock, and saw that amp for a decent price. But, better to know it is not worth it. Appreciated! Info provided... HAES 6X40W Verstarker 996 Coupe M490 996.645.311.00 harmen 49134 70192/01 Serial - Nr which is the serial number date: W949 made in sweden
  23. Info provided... HAES 6X40W Verstarker 996 Coupe M490 996.645.311.00 harmen 49134 70192/01 Serial - Nr which is the serial number date: W949 made in sweden
  24. Hi all, I am trying to purchase an M490 from a seller, but I need a pre 03 (non fiber) amp. The seller is not sure what he has and is asking how to identify if it has a fiber connex. I haven't seen the newer amps, so I am not sure if they are the typical square optical plugs or what exactly. Can anyone post a picture of the connections on a 03 or newer M490 upgrade or suggest the best way to identify it? Thank you.
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