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Glyn

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Everything posted by Glyn

  1. Glyn
    Bob, is this the plastic thingy that sits just above your knees under the dash - if so there are 4 screws that attach it to the dash, they are located into plastic push in type pieces, the screws go through the middle of the plastic push ins and expand the plastic like a wall plug. Hope that all made sense - **** this Jack Daniels (the **** part only said d.a.m.n why blank this out?)
  2. Glyn
    Inside the door from the key lock is a flat piece of metal, about 3 inches long, it connects to the door lock in the same fashon a screwdriver goes into a slotted screw-its not fixed just pushes in there, therefore by simply removing the door lock- connect the wires back op (with the lock in your hand) you can use a flat blade screwdriver to lock and unlock the car - this should wake your system up. Next remove the door lock and either get a new one or take it to a locksmith to get it to work with the key you have
  3. Glyn
    Not a chance. This is not major and in reality any half competant mechanic could locate the problem and replace the offending part, perhaps a few comments will now come from others who will shudder that non Porsche people should touch it. Its just a car Go to an independant, listen to what they say, buy the part via interwebby and let them fit. Oh yes, there is no great shakes to filling with water, you do not have to vaccum etc, its mysterys like this that make everybody afraid to do anything on them, to top up / fill with water, open the bleed valve - which is under the oil and water cap in the boot - take caps off and lift the plastic false floor- under this is the vent- simply pull back the pin to open the valve - put the cap back on the oil but leave the water off, start the engine and let it warm up, as the thermostat opens trapped air will be forced up the vent, the water level will fall and you simply top it up. Keep it running for about 10 minutes like this, then shut the vent, top the water to its proper level and fit the cap, then go enjoy
  4. Glyn
    From all that you have said it doesnt sound like this is going to cost you mega bucks, the most likely is either the idler adjuster or the water pump, any decent mechanic will be able to pinpoint the problem within minutes of taking the engine front cover off, of course get ready for the sharp intake of breath, the nodding head and the false screwed up face - its part of the motor vehicles mechanic training- they have a whole week practicing this before they move on to how to fix the things :lol:
  5. Glyn
    It certainly sounds rotational as viscarra44 stated, there is also an idler on the polyrib belt, pity you didnt rev the engine, that way we could have heard the effect and been a little more analytical, if you are handy with a spanner loosen the idler on the polyrib belt and remove the belt, then start her up, if the sound has dissapeared you will know it is one of the pully wheels which means idler, alternator, power steering pump, air-con compressor etc. Dont drive the car far as you will have no water pump or power steering but you can rev her up - with the noise i hear it will be obvious if one of the pullys are responsible - then spin them all one by one by hand to see if you can detect a roughness or noise, then grasp and try to twist them - this checks for excessive bearing wear Good luck
  6. Glyn
    This is either an oxygen sensor or the maf. disconnect the maf then run the car, this will not harm anything as the engine management system goes into its fallback strategy protocol, it approximates the fuel/air ratio and whilst its not perfect it is better than a duff maf, try it, if it corrects your problem then replace the maf. most testers will not display the maf out of range unless it is totally fried. The other possibility is a slight air leak in the induction tubes, undo then reposition and tighten up, this problem will be more noticable when starting from very cold, the revs will rise and fall at tickover
  7. Glyn
    RMS is just a little poxy oil leak, dont worry unless you have masses of oil loss. The end of the crankshaft has the flywheel bolted to it- then its the clutch and finaly the gearbox, Where the crank joins the flywheel there is an oil seal with a cost of only a couple of dollars (in your money - but about £5 in brit stuff) so i guess about 8 to 10 dollars, oil seeps past the seal and drains down the bellhousing of the gearbox and drips out from underneath the middle of the car engine - all manufactures place a drain hole in this area to ensure the oil leaks away and does not build up to contaminate the clutch. Contamination will happen when the leak becomes very bad- most Porsches start to leak but seldom develop. Some manufactures put a split pin through the drail hole to encorage the oil to drain away easier - though i haven't seen that on a Boxster. Dont worry abot it, if you want it doing because you want to be on the safe side your garage will always reccomment a new clutch at the same time, so either way you incur the cost of changing the lot, drive the car and wait for the leak to get worse (which it wont) or until other signs that the clutch needs changing - then have the seal changed at the same time. Relax -
  8. Glyn
    This is clutch judder, likely either due to excessive wear of the clutch or oil contamination on the clutch plate, do you have an RMS leak? there are other things that could cause it like engine mounting broken/weak or spongy and there is a possibility that the dual mass flywheel is knackered, however old clutch or contaminated plate is the most likely. What happens is the clutch starts to bite, oil on one part of the centre plate causes a slip only for a good area of the plate to re-engage properly - to test this use high revs to pull away suggest 2000 ish ans slowly let the clutch out, if it pulls smoothly then you know its the centre plate, howver to be sure the box needs to come out and clutch taken out, if there is wear replace the lot and have the RMS done at the same time for a few pennies more. (cents in your case)
  9. Glyn
    You dont need the clip, simply reach over and depress the button where the clip fits, press the remote to lock the car then release the button, this activates the interior sensors.
  10. Glyn
    They all have the 5mph error, the speedo always reads faster- part of the package to enhance perceived performance. 10% error is lawfull - which also means the odometer is wrong by the same amount
  11. Glyn
    In England specialist stopped suplying parts for alternators and starters years ago, I used to be able to get any single part and pay peanuts for it, but now its replace the whole thing - at least you know the cause of the problem and can now rectify
  12. Glyn
    The alternator needs to be disconnected at the alternator itself, What can happen is the diode pack within the alternator fails (Diodes only allow current in one direction) the alternator in this failed state then draws current like an electric motor. It is a lot more technical than this explanation but this is the gist as i dont know how familiar you are with auto electrics. You will also have to trace any additional equipment added to the car
  13. Glyn
    Joesan, at least you have found the fault, i was struggling to think of anything that could have gone wrong with the clutch change that could create the sound you described, the only thing would be a faulty release bearing or a problem with the flywheel (dual mass) but the sound would be completly different between the two. All in all your sorted - and not a too expensive thing at that
  14. Glyn
    Ohms law is watts equals amps times volts (easy to remember "what are virgins") 2.5 amps is 30 watts so more than one bulb, perhaps a radio amp ? put a clamp meter on and draw fuses - this will nail the blighter
  15. Glyn
    Can you post a sound file? If we cant hear it we cant diagnose it
  16. Glyn
    Spot on Toolpants, me too (not following this). I have RHD but i havnt a clue what the item is, its not been on either of mine or any that i looked at, and yes my CD changer is in the area described
  17. Glyn
    Quite common for the baffle inside the exhaust box to become detached and rattle
  18. Glyn
    The cold start thing, sounds just like a sticking idle speed control valve or a very slight air leak on the intake pipes. (more critical on cold start though may not be noticable once warm ) The gear change is smoother if you take the revs higher the change sort of blends better, slower speeds just want a slower change. Enjoy the car
  19. Glyn
    WTF....Plugs is plugs, they all spark and the internal combustion engine has not changed a great deal from Otto's days, they all go suck, squeeze, bang, puff Anything within heat range is good :rolleyes:
  20. Glyn
    Its only the passenger side if your left hand drive. And why would you want to do this? anyway a small generator and a leaf blower should do the trick - theres nowt so queer as folk :D
  21. Glyn
    You dont see water moving about anymore as all the user can see is the expansion tank. The washer fluid will create air as it heats up (the bubbles), you will not see much evidence of a load of air being purged, but it will happen, i dont know how much washer fluid you put in, so you may have to do the purge a few times, but dont worry, all will be well and in a few weeks you will have a good laugh at all of this - it could be worse, you could have put water in the oil filler. The air con wont have made any difference to the water level - this must have been coincidence. Bet you wont do the bugger again :clapping:
  22. Glyn
    yes, yes... but for PRACTICAL purposes, an item made by the same OEM supplier and using the same part number to which Porsche applies their part number *is* OEM. there is no difference except for the Porsche packaging, Porsche price (and maybe warranty). Chris, Im with you on this one - Its the same part, sod the plastic bag or box the part comes in - you throw those in the bin. And when you consider the parts are identical and only the part number for Porsche has to be stamped on it or a sticker applied and then the price doubles does this mean the stamper or sticker fixer is earning a shedload? Ive not seen the job advertised but i think i could do that job for ---ohh 100k a year - Does anyone know who i apply to :jump:
  23. Glyn
    are you left or right hand drive, which seat are we looking at :( LHD, driver's side (US Model) As per Loren
  24. Glyn
    Air lock. Take the oil and water cap off and lift the plastic base, under this is a lever which is a bleed valve, pull the lever up, put the oil cap back on and start the engine with the water cap off, run up to normal running temperature, when the thrermostat opens water will be moved around the system, because the valve is open the air will be moved too and this will purge the system, keep topping up the water level. A couple of minutes running once at normal temperature will be enough, shut the valve and reassemble - all is now done. The reason for the "push" of water is that the trapped air expands, gets so hot it turns to steam, the guuge drops when the air lock is around the temperature sensor, as it moves and water makes contact with the sensor you will see the gauge shoot up. Now you need to find out why you have an air lock, perhaps recently changed a radiator? If nothing has been done to the car have a system pressure test done, it just may be (and dont panic) a head gasket problem :)
  25. Glyn
    are you left or right hand drive, which seat are we looking at :(
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