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I have a 98 Boxster that started showing the Check Engine Light. Check Engine Light came on and the codes for the Durametirc software were P1125 Oxygen sensing range 1 Cylinder (4-6) and P1123 Oxygen sensing range 1 Cylinder (1-3). I cleared the codes using Durametric Diagnostic Software and no check engine light appeared. The other day the check engine light came on so I decided to check the fuel pressure. I activated the fuel pump through the Durametric Software and the reading was 52 psi.Also, here is another caveat which may or may not have something to do with the Check Engine Light. When using the Durametric Software it only allows me to access the Engine Option for ME5.2.2 for 1997-1999 which is fine. However, it won't allow me to access any other options like the ABS/DSC/PSM 5.3 for 1997-2001 or the Instrument Cluster K01 for 1997-2000 and it always tells me the cable is unplugged (even though it is not and the green light is on) for the Airbag, Air Conditioning, Alarm, etc.I sent my cable back to Durametrics and they checked it and said it was something to do with my wiring. Any suggesstions about fixing the oxygen sensing issue or troubleshooting the other issue so I canuse the software?
Thanks for posting these instructions! Yes, some banged knuckles but you provided me the guidance to do it on my own. No mechanical experience here, just desire.
Hello, I think the ignition switch/lock issue is my problem but I need a little confirmation before going this route. I had just replaced my water pump and had to leave town after it was completed. When I came back the Porsche Boxster 1998 was dead. I immediately thought the battery was dead, so I took a reading to confirm it, and put my handy dandy charger on it. It took a long time to charge it even though the batter is only about 1.5 years old. I started the car up and ran it for a while, took it up to the store and everything appeared fine, except for the locking mechanism. I had to insert the key into the door instead of locking it with the button on the key. When locking it at the door the alarm would beep also. The next day I came out to use the car and it was dead again. I went through the whole procedure again. However, the following day it worked except that I had to use the key in the door to lock it. It worked again the following day the same way. The third day it was dead again. I have noticed over the months that sometimes it is extremely difficult to insert the key into the ignition, but if I go to the door and lock and unlock the door, then the key will go into the ignition usually. Sometimes I have to just lock and unlock the door a couple of times before the ignition will accept the key. 1. Do you think that I need to replace the ignition? 2. What part(s) do I need to order? 3. Do I have to get my key reprogrammed or get a new key? Thanks for your help!
JRoser started following DIY Upgraded Ignition Switch/Lock Installation for 996/Boxster
Thanks for all the suggestions. I ended up realizing the pump needed to be replaced, so I pried the pulley from housing and was able to get the open ended adjustable grip wrench in position. Because the bolt head would not accept a standard wrench. THANKS!!
My Water Pump was leaking coolant on my 1998 Boxster, so I decided to replace the water pump gasket. After removing all the components described in Wayne's Technical Article of Water Pump and Thermostat Replacement, I came across one unforgiving bolt on the Water Pump that would not budge. The 10mm flexhead would not grip the very top bolt. I noticed that the pulley for the water pump was almost touching the bolt. On further inspection I found that the pulley had actually shirred the bolt head and and rubbed off 3 of the points of the bolt head making it impossible to take off with the required 10mm flexhead. So, I tried the following methods: 1. Liquid Wrench spray with a vise a needle nose vice grip. Result: Won't stay on and keeps slipping because of the angle. 2. Attaching another nut to the sheared bolt head with JB Weld, and trying to unscrew it. Result: JB Weld is not holding the nut. Other Factors: If you were looking directly at the water pump and had you head even with the pulley, you would see the pulley wheel was covering part of the bolt head, meaning you couldn't get a socket around it. You have to come from the top because of the pulley wheel covering part of the bolt head. If you look at any manual like Bentley's or Wayne's article you would not see the pulley up partially over the bolt head. Question 1: Can I just pull the pulley straight out someway? Question 2: Can you provide me any other avenues to solve this problem? Thanks