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Showing results for tags 'water pump'.
Found 13 results
Hi guys.Finnally got the Boxster on the road after an enforced year stood.It sounded a bit rattly when I started it up.I have done about 50 miles in it since all short journeys, and it still making the same noise.Not knowing much about these engines not sure if it's something more serious than tapped, alternator bearing???.Im not driving it and will get it recovered to an Indy for assessment, so any suggestions will be gratefully received. Hopefully other club members will chime in.
I recently had to replace the water pump on my 2001 Boxster. This all went fine, however, the red light to the right of the temperature gauge is blinking at 1 Hz. I've read this indicates low coolant level. I followed the factory procedure to bleed the system and it is filled to the max, but the light still blinks. Also, the gauge is flatlined to the left. I replaced the temperature sensor near the #4 cylinder head without improvement, and the wires "look" ok. All the fuses are good. Does anyone know the procedure to troubleshoot this wiring? Or the pin and socket numbers for the wiring diagram? The temperature gauge worked fine before the water pump blew up. I did recover most of the impeller, but a few small pieces are in there.
Late 2004 Boxster Base Tiptronic with 45,000 miles I have racked up 15,000 miles over the last 3 years of ownership. The coolant was flushed about a year prior to purchase. I think it's time to flush the coolant. I plan to buy the Airlift tool - it's a time vs cost issue, time wins. I know from searching that JFP has recommended to others to replace the water pump as preventative maintenance on a car this age. Fair enough. Porsche pump, clean the mating surfaces carefully and: 1. Use gasket sealant or no sealant? 2. Should I replace the coolant reservoir even though I cannot find anything wrong with it? I'll replace the thermostat at the same time. 3. Should it be the 160 degree thermostat? 3a. I notice that the car runs between 190 - 210 degrees (using Scangauge) most of the time in warm weather, so will the 160 stat be a benefit? 4. Which hoses should be replaced? 5. Anything else? Since the start of ownership I've done mostly preventative and general maintenance with very few actual failures of any kind. With that being said, I think mileage is beginning to expose some common failures cropping up like what happened yesterday - the turn signal stalk won't hold in-place, so now I need to replace it but at least getting the 4-stalk version will give me the OBC functions.
Are GEBA and PIEBURG water pumps OEM?
2005 C2S ~52k miles For the record, for multiple months prior to these maintenance procedures, I noted an oil temperature of about 205 deg F, whether the ambient temperature was warm or cold. I could get the temp to go up by keeping the RPMs above 3000 for an extended time. Most of the time the needle just stayed pretty steady at 205. The one day, saw leaking coolant from underneath the water pump. Decided to change the water pump and thermostat myself. I also changed some of the hoses that touch other about-to-be-changed-out parts. I changed the reservoir cap. The new thermostat was labelled as "71" and marked Motorad. I have no history of whether any prior coolant system work had been done by others. When initially draining the coolant, I used the AirLift three additional times to pull fluid to the back end of the car to get a more empty system. Then I did the parts change out. Put everything back together. The system held its vacuum for at least five minutes. I then refilled with straight distilled water, intending to "flush" out the old, yellow-ish coolant since my new coolant was Audi G12 anti-gel "red". I took it for a 15 minute spin to mix up, and heat up, everything. I drained the diluted coolant three time with AirLifts in between. It held vacuum again. Proceeded to add 3.3 gallons of straight G12 since that's what I calculated I needed (for appropriately 50/50 against a total capacity of 8.6 gallons). Finished/topped off with distilled water. To try to get any potentially trapped air pockets out, I turned the heater on HI and fan on high. I'm now getting about 212-215 oil temperature and the needle seems to move (up and down) more often compared to the pre-change state. I was really hoping for a reduction in oil temperature after the change-out because of the low temperature thermostat. What might explain why the "reduction" seems to have gone the other way? Thanks for any insights you might provide. PS: The bright side - there's no more leaking coolant. [Although I didn't hear much noise from the old water pump - when I had it on the bench I could tell the bearing was shot.]
Am I unlucky.. :huh: Seems that after fixing my oil level sensor, I've found that the coolant pump squeaks when the car warms up. I've localized the noise to the pump rather than the idler pulley so it is looking like I'm going to have to get it replaced. 56k miles seems awfully early for the water pump to die. :censored: Has anyone seen Porsche fix these outside of warranty (or discount?)? Alternatively, does anyone have any experience with the DIY replacement? I've done it on my 996 (1999) so am wondering if it is more or less difficult? I've read that it is supposed to be more accessible, but the workshop manual seems to indicate removing the entire engine carrier plate on the rear of the engine. :help:
Hey all, Looking for some help here. I developed a pretty bad coolant leak about a month ago, i was losing about 1 liter per week. When I got under the car i saw the dripping coming from the tip of the waterpump, and surrounding areas. Since the car had gone about 60k since it was last replaced I bought that and replaced it thinking that would be it. However, after assembling everything back together.... The leak seems to be coming out of whatever is next to it. Attached are a few pictures, any help as to what this is; or how to troubleshoot would be great!
'99 c2 6spd 167000mi Okay guys, Finally got my new water pump up on the engine. I go to torque the bolts and I get around to the last bolt only to have it bottom out! I jump back into the porsche parts Katalogue and sure enough it lists a 30mm and 25mm long bolt! can somebody illustrate for me which locations receive the shorter bolt? they all looked the same when I pulled them out :( rookie mistake for the old guy! :D thanks in advance all!
Found a small spotting of coolant dead center of engine at rear under cats and in front of pulleys . Thought it was water pump related, but turns out its the part that the coolant drain plug is cast into. Picture attached should help identify this. What is this pump housing part called? For now we JB welded it. Hopefully this patch will hold until the correct piece is located along with a new water pump probably since I'll be in there. As always, much appreciated for the help. Phil B
I know this is a topic often reviewed here on the forum but I was looking for a little more help prior to just letting my local mechanic ream me for a few thousand dollars. Use the forum often, rarely (if ever) post, but have been far more active on equivalent sites for cars I've owned in past (Audi/BMW/etc)... Have an 04 Cay S, 87k miles, owner for past 16 months, probably drive 1200-1500mi/month. About 2 months ago, in traffic temp gauge went above 220 - i know it is very common for it to fluctuate in that 180-220 range but this was first ever time it went beyond. Was home about 1 mile later with no real issue. The next morning I got the "check coolant level" message, figured I could get to my mechanic 20 miles away and about 17 miles of the way there, got stuck in a little morning traffic and it quickly overheated, I sort of saw it coming so immediately pulled over and turned it off and waited for AAA. Shop replaced the water pump, coolant pipes (from the old plastic ones), flushed the coolant, etc. and for about 6 weeks all ran smooth, and even with being in some traffic never got past 180-190 temp wise. Over past 7 days its quickly become worse and is willing to fluctuate above 180 pretty quickly and certainly smells like coolant once parked. I have added to prior threads - 1) http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/42289-coolant-smell-always-evrything-replaced/ - in posting #7, does anyone know what the part is in the bottom right of the diagram? almost looks like a filter? that is leaking - what part is that and is it a major reason for conern? 2) http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/42643-ac-dryer-2004-cs/ - does this user's issue correlate to me at all? Thanks for your help!
I have a 2003 Boxster with 77,653 miles. I am the third owner and this Tiptronic Porsche was brand new in late December 2002. It is my daily driver and most of its miles are on the highway. It hasn't been tracked. Roughly two weeks ago the coolant temperature blinking light came on for roughly a minute. It has come on once since then. Each time the engine temperature was perfectly fine throughout the 1 1/2 trip. I did not until today check the coolant level (my bad) and now see that the fluid is well below the minimum level but can be seen when looking down through the opening. On the way home from San Antonio for Thanksgiving I heard a new cyclical noise that sounds like bearings going out. I've read up on different websites that it is likely my alternator, pulleys, or water pump. My battery registers 12.6 volts when the engine isn't running and 13.93 when it is running. I bought a mechanics stethoscope and as best I can tell the water pump and the lower pulley seem to have rough noises. And there does seems to be the smallest flutter in the water pump pulley with it going in and out maybe 1 to 2 mm. Here's a link to a short video ( ) of the engine running and you can hear what I think is a bearing going. Would the next step in isolating the problem be to remove the drive belt and try spinning the pulleys and water pump pulley freely to see if there is any obvious failure going on? I tried the WD-40 trick but spraying it on the pulleys while running didn't make any obvious difference. If it is the pulley and/or water pump how difficult are those fixes if I'm handy and have in the past replaced a turbocharger on my old Saab 900? I don't fear much in the way of fixes (perhaps to a fault). Please share your wisdom or I'll end up spending too much at a shop. :-) Thanks, Trevor in Austin
'04 CTT w/ 83K miles I had a knocking noise coming from the vicinity of the water pump; it was audible at idle when standing near the hood. Took me about 6 hours, it wasn't hard, but there are some frustrating parts due to the tightness of the space between the radiator fans and the drive belt pulleys. I also replaced the drive belt while I was there (7 years old/83K miles). Replacing it added about 2 hours to the job and was easily the most frustrating part of the job. There are a bunch of quick release PCV lines and vacuum lines that needed to be disconnected (and they aren't very 'quick' release), and doing that without breaking things is challenging. Especially when you're dealing with 7 year old PCV fittings that have become a bit brittle. Torques: Water pump to engine block 7.5ft-lbs. Pulley to water pump: 17ft-lbs. Pump:$175, gasket: $4, and Drive belt: $110. All sourced locally from an import parts place. I could've saved a little more by ordering online. Cheaper than the dealer though. I used the DIY below from 6speed. Thanks to whomever wrote it. http://www.6speedonl...tml#post3400288
My Water Pump was leaking coolant on my 1998 Boxster, so I decided to replace the water pump gasket. After removing all the components described in Wayne's Technical Article of Water Pump and Thermostat Replacement, I came across one unforgiving bolt on the Water Pump that would not budge. The 10mm flexhead would not grip the very top bolt. I noticed that the pulley for the water pump was almost touching the bolt. On further inspection I found that the pulley had actually shirred the bolt head and and rubbed off 3 of the points of the bolt head making it impossible to take off with the required 10mm flexhead. So, I tried the following methods: 1. Liquid Wrench spray with a vise a needle nose vice grip. Result: Won't stay on and keeps slipping because of the angle. 2. Attaching another nut to the sheared bolt head with JB Weld, and trying to unscrew it. Result: JB Weld is not holding the nut. Other Factors: If you were looking directly at the water pump and had you head even with the pulley, you would see the pulley wheel was covering part of the bolt head, meaning you couldn't get a socket around it. You have to come from the top because of the pulley wheel covering part of the bolt head. If you look at any manual like Bentley's or Wayne's article you would not see the pulley up partially over the bolt head. Question 1: Can I just pull the pulley straight out someway? Question 2: Can you provide me any other avenues to solve this problem? Thanks